GreatBritishRob wrote:actually do fit the KDX220R. Very handy to. Now got a nice wavy front disc brake on my KDX. No doubt everyone already knew that but theres not a lot of call for the KDX in Britain so its mostly trial and error.
Only thing you have to do is either drill out the mounting holes a little bit to use the original bolts as they have a collar on or simply use normal 8mm bolts. Thats ok as the disc only comes under load one way anyway. Apart from that the diameter, internal and exterior is the same, mounting holes etc all in the same place. Fitted mine last night and the wavy disc looks a treat and its solid which personally i prefer.
dfeckel wrote:We've all heard the tales, the descriptions, the legends...but we've never definitively seen, let alone captured for study, the E series KIPS subvalve Bigfoot, also known as Juliend's mythical KIPS reinforcement plate. I am ecstatic to announce that I've captured not just one of these plates, but two, and I have photographic proof!!!!!
This all began with my basket case 1994 KDX 200 that I originally bought for parts, but decided I would resurrect for cheap and give to my buddy.
There were a couple problems on the transmission, so I had to tear down the motor and split the cases. The powervalves were absolute trash, the worst I've ever seen. Basically broken for decades and left to tumble around in their journals until they were turned into little aluminum marbles. So I got the die grinder out and removed the remnants of the subvalves that had melted onto the ports and cleaned up the journals enough to receive new sub valves. Once everything was installed and timed, I was having a lot of binding in the pushrod because the retaining screw wouldn't hold the guide square to cylinder.
Here is how it's supposed to sit.
Here is how much it moves even with the seating screw fully tightened.
The solution--Bigfoot in the flesh!!!!
I made the plate out of some aluminum I had bought to make my hybrid headstays last year. I made a rubbing of the seating surface using paper and a crayon, and then I was able to transfer the hole centers onto the aluminum with a punch. A few holes drilled on the drill press, a little coping saw action, and a little dressing up with files and sandpaper, and Bob's yer uncle!
You have to remove the c-clips that hold the collar at the end of the shaft so that you can slip the plate on, and then reassemble the shaft. I used a little gasket maker between the plate and the cylinder, and I used the paper gasket between the cover and the plate.
Now, the shaft is much more stable, and the valves don't bind anymore. While I was at it, I made another for my hybrid. I'm pretty sure it has a broken sub valve less than 30 hours after they were all new.
Anyhow, it's nice to finally have the Bigfoot conspiracy theories sasquached. I mean squashed. Enjoy! Thanks for Juliend for passing on the idea, and special thanks to my daughter Lilly, who helped immeasurably with the photography!
Slick_Nick wrote:Quick How-To on rewinding your stock lighting stator. The setup I ended up with tested out at 98W, the stock stator at 60W. Now, I don't dual-sport my bike, but I wanted a brighter headlight for those nights when you're caught out just after sunset. 100W is more than enough for a standard headlight / tail light. This procedure was done on an A/H series KDX, but the basic procedure should apply for any bike with a single coil AC generator. Onto the rewind.
You will need:
- A flywheel puller
- A flywheel holder
- Socket set
- Soldering iron
- Side cutters / wire strippers
- 17GA coated magnet wire, 1 small spool should do
Remove the flywheel cover, use a flywheel holder to remove the 17mm nut on the flywheel. use your puller to remove the flywheel. Remember, on the KDX those are LEFT HAND THREADS for the puller.
Unplug the stator wire. The connection is found up on the right side of the bike just by the shock reservoir.
Remove the three phillips screws with an impact hammer if they're stuck, and remove the stator. Pay close attention to the timing reference marks, so you can put the stator back in correctly.
There are two coils on the stator plate, the ignition coil, and the lighting coil. The lighting coil (the one we're concerned with) is the larger, uncoated coil. Go ahead and remove the coil from the stator plate, by removing the two phillips screws. You will need to clip the power wire, do so as close to the coil as you can. This will leave lots to solder back on later. You should now have the coil all by itself.
Now, de-solder the ends of the coil wires, the black ground wire can remain. You want to clean all the old solder off. Remove the old coil of wire. There will be a LOT of it, like 200 yards worth, not kidding.
Pay special attention to how the wire is wrapped around! What direction, and where it starts and where it ends.
Using your coated wire, simply rewind the stator just like it was stock, leaving extra at each end for soldering. Read:
For the best possible result, keep the wire as tight as possible. I had a friend hold the spool taught while I wrapped the stator. This is a time consuming process, be patient and it will pay off. The more wraps of wire you can fit the better, and the tighter they're packed the better.
Be really careful not to scratch the coating off the wire. If there's a short in the stator, you've just dropped your output to nothing. The idea is to fit as much wire as possible on the coil, obviously without hitting the flywheel. The stock wire was wound about to that point, you can use my pics for reference, but that is about all that would fit under the flywheel.
Done wrapping now? Good. Time to solder those ends on. I cut just enough to reach the soldering terminals. This is definitly a measure twice, cut once kinda deal.
Scrape the coating off the last 1/4" or so, and solder the wire to the posts. This was easily done because you paid attention to how it all came off, right? :thumbsup:
Solder on a new output wire where the old one was attached, leaving about 3" to work with. Your finished stator should look like this:
Cut the output wire to length, solder it back to the output wire you cut in the harness, and heat shrink wrap it to seal it in.
Bolt the coil back to the stator plate:
I like to check the coil for continuity at this point, right from one end of the coil wire to the end of the harness yellow wire. Would be a shame if there was a short and you waited until it was back together to find it, wouldn't it? Any good multimeter is capable of checking continuity.
Reinstall the stator plate, paying attention to the timing marks. This would be a good time to advance or retard your timing, depending on your riding preference. Refer to your service manual for details on that.
Reinstall the flywheel, make sure it doesnt contact your coil! Bolt the flywheel cover back on, and fire it up!
I tested my bike right at the headlight socket, with the stock headlight and tail light on, no other electrical equipment installed.
12.53v AC @ 7.90a AC gives 98.987 watts. Measurements taken just above idle.
Idle gave 12.34v AC @ 7.81a AC, which works out to 96.375 watts.
So, just under 100W for about $18 and a bit of spare time. Good luck!
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