Varmint wrote:Possibly stupid question but I need to ask so I can learn.
Where is the damage I'm looking for here? Is is the four grooves in the basket where the plate tabs have carved themselves in?
What problem does this cause? Plates do not seperate easily?
Your solution is to file these grooves away. Does this make the opening bigger allowing for slop in the plates?
Thanks!
That's what the naysayers want you to believe
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
Varmint wrote:Possibly stupid question but I need to ask so I can learn.
Where is the damage I'm looking for here? Is is the four grooves in the basket where the plate tabs have carved themselves in?
What problem does this cause? Plates do not seperate easily?
Your solution is to file these grooves away. Does this make the opening bigger allowing for slop in the plates?
Thanks!
Yes the four groves is the damage.
It could cause a hard working clutch that could slip or hang up.
Yes it will make the opening larger. To what point is to how bad the hub is worn. The plates may beat against the hub harder and wear out the hub quicker but it is already bad so why not save it if you can. You might get a season or years out of fixing it.
Varmint wrote:Possibly stupid question but I need to ask so I can learn.
Where is the damage I'm looking for here? Is is the four grooves in the basket where the plate tabs have carved themselves in?
What problem does this cause? Plates do not seperate easily?
Your solution is to file these grooves away. Does this make the opening bigger allowing for slop in the plates?
Thanks!
Warning! This member tends to use sarcasm as a regular form of communication. If a post seems offensive, before you panic and fly off the handle, re-read the post and imagine it being said with a sideways grin. ((Bike Profile)) ((Pics))
FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
Varmint wrote:Possibly stupid question but I need to ask so I can learn.
Where is the damage I'm looking for here? Is is the four grooves in the basket where the plate tabs have carved themselves in?
What problem does this cause? Plates do not seperate easily?
Your solution is to file these grooves away. Does this make the opening bigger allowing for slop in the plates?
Thanks!
1) Yes. the damage is the small grooves worn into the basket tabs.
2) Yes, the plates will "lock themselves" into those grooves, preventing easy disengagement. (the grooves are most assuredly located in the "engaged" position of the plates)
3) Yes. If you increase the distance between the basket tabs, the plates will have more room to slam back and forth between the tabs, accelerating the next round of wear.
2004 Dual Sported KDX200
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
Varmint wrote:Possibly stupid question but I need to ask so I can learn.
Where is the damage I'm looking for here? Is is the four grooves in the basket where the plate tabs have carved themselves in?
What problem does this cause? Plates do not seperate easily?
Your solution is to file these grooves away. Does this make the opening bigger allowing for slop in the plates?
Thanks!
1) Yes. the damage is the small grooves worn into the basket tabs.
2) Yes, the plates will "lock themselves" into those grooves, preventing easy disengagement. (the grooves are most assuredly located in the "engaged" position of the plates)
3) Yes. If you increase the distance between the basket tabs, the plates will have more room to slam back and forth between the tabs, accelerating the next round of wear.
Thank you.
In my garage
2003 KDX200
2003 KX85
2005 CRF230F
2009 300 XC-W(e) My KDX
I also called FRP and talked to Jeff. He recommended filing it as well. So if the guy who can sell you a $275 part is saying file it ....
Anyway, I don't ride as much as I'd like (who does?), I don't use the clutch all that hard, so I am going to try and file/Dremel that bad boy, assuming everything else in there checks out OK. As several have said, I'll probably be fine for quite a while doing it that way.
Thanks for all the input!
Bill
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
Ok, well I pulled it apart and the basket looks kinda bad to me - on the OUTside. See the pics. One of the 'fingers' has a deep groove along its entire surface. It's about 0.5 mm deep. I am surprised it does not carry over to the other fingers on the basket, but all the marks are random. This is the ony one on the basket that worries me. Otherwise I'm thinking am still good to file it.
2 questions:
Can I smooth this groove out to get rid of the stress concentration and use the basket, or should I just give up on this thing?
What might have caused this kind of damage?
Thanks for the help!!
Bill
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
wow. Worth trying to file it down. I think you'll be ok with that one finger you're worried about. Something got loose in there and ground against it, for sure. Main gear and all looks good?
You'd think that'd least make some noise while all that was going on
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
Thanks for the help guys. Everything looks fine to me, and it sounds fine when riding. I bought the bike in June and it had been used hard, so goodness only knows what has happened to it in its lifetime. I guess I will still file it.
Here's what the innards look like. Bearings turn smooth. Gears look fine; no unusual wear on them. Nothing missing or out of line that I can see.
My clutch plates measure out OK but where they slam the basket they are worn and there is a lip. The springs measure short of the service limit so I think I will at least put a clutch kit in it. RMATV has Tusk clutch kits for $45.
I know this is stupid to ask but this is a 220 after all, so if a piston goes south there's no way for bits to get into the trans is there? I can't figure what might have done that. Are there any trans parts that might grenade when abused that could have done that?
Bill
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
no chance of piston bits getting in there. Most common cause of that kind of damage would be someone removing or re-installing the kips gear without supporting the rod. The pin at the bottom can break off and go adventuring through the transmission.
Thanks Julien. No pin in there that I could see. I'll look closer. It runs good, powerband seems like KiPS is working, so I guess they fixed it. I'll have to do some research so I know how to check the kips operation. I know I have seen that on here somewhere before ......
Bill
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
If you have the exhaust pipe off, you take the small cover off the RH side of the cylinder and pull the KIPS rod by hand. As you look up through the exhaust port you will be able to see the valves move as you are moving the actuator.
After you get her back together, leave that plastic cover off on the RH side and make sure the rod moves at around 6k rpm when you're throttling it.
