what's wrong with this picture?

[scheckaet]

That's what happen when you don't know what you're doing and it way past bedtime...



Now I have to spend more than 55 bucks to replace that ridiculous tiny piece
How the hell do you remove that nut? Can't figure it out and the manual is not that helpfull

[quailchaser]

Righty tighty, lefty loosey. One quick hit with an impact wrench will do the trick. I ussually use a T handle and a quick blow to the appropriate side of the "T" with a heavy brass hammer.

[KDXer]

LEAVE IT AND BUY SOME BEER !!!!

Mines been like that for years and nil adverse effects to date. The whole rack etc still operates fine, no ??

Oh and stop your whining hehe, when I discovered mine and tried to order one they wanted $100+au and said I'd have to wait until MaKaw made another batch of them. Minimum 12 week wait.

[scheckaet]

LEAVE IT AND BUY SOME BEER !!!!

Mines been like that for years and nil adverse effects to date. The whole rack etc still operates fine, no ??

Sweet that's what I like to hear, everything else is fine. How do you remove that nut? I get the

Righty tighty, lefty loosey

but don't you have to support the shaft or something cuz I don't see how it won't happen again (I removed the allen screw that was holding the shaft to the big valve because I was afraid of breaking sumthin, do you have to leave it on in order to remove that nut???)

Oh and stop your whining hehe, when I discovered mine and tried to order one they wanted $100+au and said I'd have to wait until MaKaw made another batch of them. Minimum 12 week wait.

Isn't "AU" money kind of like MONOPOLY money anyway????

[Flying W]

Sweet that's what I like to hear, everything else is fine. How do you remove that nut?

don't you have to support the shaft or something cuz I don't see how it won't happen again (I removed the allen screw that was holding the shaft to the big valve because I was afraid of breaking sumthin, do you have to leave it on in order to remove that nut???)

I followed the cyclepedia manual and it had me take take the allen head out first, but since the subvalves were still installed with the bolt rod plugs still in place, the subvalves kept the shaft from turning while I torqued the nut.

[Indawoods]

I don't think you want to torque against those subvalves.... that could cause further damage... but I guess that would be a judgement call....

[Flying W]

.... that could cause further damage...

At just over 6 ft-lbs, I can't see that happening.

[canyncarvr]

Re: 'but since the subvalves were still installed with the bolt rod plugs still in place, the subvalves kept the shaft from turning..'

It's not the subvalves that keep the actuator rode from turning. It's getting to the end of the teeth of the rod/gear.

Look at the pic. There will be zero force against the subport drum because the rod is going to get jammed up. As I recall, the same is true for both Lefty Luci AND Ridey Tidy.

..can't tell for sure in the pic...but do make sure the alignment marks do line up.

How did the gear get nannywhacked in the first place?

[Flying W]

Look at the pic. There will be zero force against the subport drum because the rod is going to get jammed up.

Or it could be that I just got lucky, but... I don't think so, the hole shooting match was solid when I broke my nut loose and, as I said before, 6.something ft-lbs to tighten it isn't much (certainly not enough to break one of those teeth).

..can't tell for sure in the pic...but do make sure the alignment marks do line up.

I didn't think they looked lined up myself, but could be sure from the pic. It just doesn't make sense to me that the tooth would get broken off from the rod traveling too far. The radius following the broken tooth should have prevented the rotation from continuing CCW.

[canyncarvr]

Yeah!

So...how about a pic that shows the gear mark in the correct tooth...well..gap..just soas to make us feel better??

[KDXer]

Mine was broken off and goooone when I did my top end. It certainly wasn't a new, clean snap indicating to me it was an old break. Still don't know what caused this piston damage, maybe the missing tooth had a gnaw on the piston.

[canyncarvr]

If a tooth of the LH gear could get into the cylinder...you would have FAR bigger problems than the missing tooth!! Like a gaping hole in something that shouldn't be there!!

..It just doesn't make sense to me that the tooth would get broken off from the rod traveling too far. The radius following the broken tooth should have prevented the rotation from continuing CCW.

Eggsactly.

Who knows. Maybe it was broken from excessive vise pressure used to hold it it place whilst someone wire-brushed on some carbon.

Or...a previous assembly consisted of gear install PRIOR to attempted rod insertion..and THAT persuaded with a bit-o-hammer 'cuz it wouldn't go in!!

[scheckaet]

this is as far as it'll go both ways

[Indawoods]

Looks like she'sa workin!

[canyncarvr]

...and BINGO was his name-O!!

Whew! I feel SO much bedder!!!


Don't forget the spring/detent ball on the bottom.

I think there is some lubricant called for in there upon reassy......

[scheckaet]

How did the gear get nannywhacked in the first place?

tried to remove the nut, then tried again with more "persuasion", I just wacked the wrench (little tap by hand) and then crack, that awfull noise I was dreadfully trying to avoid...
Looks like it's still working though.
I don't think I will try to remove it again .
I pulled up the sub vaI have to re-align the sub-valves though. I assume they are in the close position. The manual is not very clear on that.

[Flying W]

I have to re-align the sub-valves though. I assume they are in the close position. The manual is not very clear on that.

Say the truth brother!

I sent a request to cyclepedia to see if they could increase the smile factor in that area of the online manual. Hope I get a message soon that says they've added more pics.

I have a pic of the right subvalve (through the exhaust port so it's on the left of the pic). It is in the position it should be when all the marks lined up with all the dimples on the teeth if you want a gander. It's in a recent thread...maybe search for posts made by me to find it.

[canyncarvr]

Step away from the vehicle!!

Really...look at the bigger picture and don't confuse the issue with details.

You know what the end result is supposed to be..so make it so, regardless of looking for this and that mark.

Your last pic shows the KIPS (assumed if you didn't take it all apart..not only the LH rod and gear) in the 'closed' (at rest, normal, not high RPM) position. That's the orientation of all the marks ..KIPS closed.

In the 'closed' position, the main valve is lowered and both subvalves are blocking the passage from the cylinder to the port. The subvalves are mirror images of each other, but they are oriented alike...like ONE valve would look like when held up to a mirror. If one subvalve is 'more' closed than the other at rest, something is not right. The flat face of each subvalve will be facing the same direction (forward) when the KIPS is closed.

Too many words get in the way....if you know the basics of how it works, just look at a close/open action to ensure it works that way.

..and you're done!

Probably a good idea to check the marks anyway. They'll all be there!!

[Flying W]

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The flat face of each subvalve will be facing the same direction (forward) when the KIPS is closed.

Here's a shot of the flat face pointed forward:

[TWMOODY]

I use a pair of channel locks with a shop rag wraped around the
RH gear on the center shaft (to protect it from breaking teeth) to hold the shaft while I loosen the nut on the left side of the shaft.