Dumb question about my forks...
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Dumb question about my forks...
The only forks I have ever worked on are my forks on my KLR 650. I installed gold valves and springs in that bike...
The KDX forks appear to be different just by glancing through the service manual. I have a 2002 KDX 220.
To drain and refill the fork oil, do i just remove the caps off the tops of the forks?
Is there anything else screwed into the cap besides just the tube?
The spring will be sitting there on top also to take out?
Anythig else to remove before i turn them upsode down to drain them?
I know to measure oil level with the fork collapsed and bled, etc. The service manual just doesn't show me a good diagram of whats inside in a way that I can understand it.
Thanks for the help!
The KDX forks appear to be different just by glancing through the service manual. I have a 2002 KDX 220.
To drain and refill the fork oil, do i just remove the caps off the tops of the forks?
Is there anything else screwed into the cap besides just the tube?
The spring will be sitting there on top also to take out?
Anythig else to remove before i turn them upsode down to drain them?
I know to measure oil level with the fork collapsed and bled, etc. The service manual just doesn't show me a good diagram of whats inside in a way that I can understand it.
Thanks for the help!
2002 KDX 220R
2003 KLR 650
2003 KLR 650
- bufftester
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Re: Dumb question about my forks...
Very similar to your KLR650 forks. The biggest difference is that the piston rod assembly is attached to the fork cap at the top and the fork tube at the bottom. When you unscrew the cap you'll need to press down on the spring spacer to use a pair of 17mm (IIRC) spanners to unscrew the cap from the rod. At that point you can pull the spacer and spring and dump the oil, compress the fork, and refill. To completely disassemble you would have to remove the screw at the bottom of the fork leg that holds the bottom of the rod assembly, best accomplished with an impact wrench, though there is a tool Kawi made for doing it (which I have and no longer need, so I'd be willing to part with it for the cost of shipping.)
Fork Innards minus piston rod assembly
Fork Innards minus piston rod assembly
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Dumb question about my forks...
Awesome! Just like the KLR on the upper half minus the piston rod.
Is the tool something that would fit on a usps priority box? very interested in the tool.
Is the tool something that would fit on a usps priority box? very interested in the tool.
2002 KDX 220R
2003 KLR 650
2003 KLR 650
- bufftester
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Re: Dumb question about my forks...
I'll have to check...its basically a rod with like a 27mm nut on one end and a 22mm on the other (or some combo like that) whole thing is like 18" long or so. this post Fork Damping rod tool shows how to make one if you have access to a welder.
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Re: Dumb question about my forks...
That pretty long to mail in a cheap box. I appreciate the offer, but I can make that thing if I need it.
Thank you very much for your help! I'm way more clear on what to expect now with these forks.
Thank you very much for your help! I'm way more clear on what to expect now with these forks.
2002 KDX 220R
2003 KLR 650
2003 KLR 650
- bufftester
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Re: Dumb question about my forks...
No worries, search the forums you'll find lots of info on fork tuning. 1" pvc makes excellent preload adjusters for next to nothing.
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Re: Dumb question about my forks...
Preload seems to be new on the kdx vs the Klr for me too. On the Klr, preload us whatever amount gets me a certain percentage of race sag (25% of total suspension travel).
On the kdx it looks like preload is 10mm with the proper springs installed?
On the kdx it looks like preload is 10mm with the proper springs installed?
2002 KDX 220R
2003 KLR 650
2003 KLR 650
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Re: Dumb question about my forks...
A quick oil change can be accomplished by just undoing the top cap, pulling the inner fork leg down, and dumping the oil out. No need to undo the damper rod.
I have found that a quick oil change can really improve performance. I found 7.5 wt was nice, mixing 50:50 10and 5 wt
I have found that a quick oil change can really improve performance. I found 7.5 wt was nice, mixing 50:50 10and 5 wt
'08 KTM200xc
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
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Re: Dumb question about my forks...
What's the recommended air gap measurement?
2002 KDX 220R
2003 KLR 650
2003 KLR 650
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Re: Dumb question about my forks...
I have found Mobil 1 ATF to be perfect for forks. It's exactly 7.5wt.KarlP wrote:A quick oil change can be accomplished by just undoing the top cap, pulling the inner fork leg down, and dumping the oil out. No need to undo the damper rod.
I have found that a quick oil change can really improve performance. I found 7.5 wt was nice, mixing 50:50 10and 5 wt
2002 KDX 220R
2003 KLR 650
2003 KLR 650
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Re: Dumb question about my forks...
I will second the mobil 1 atf.Air gap most people run about 100 mm from the top,measured without the spring and fork leg fully compressed.adjust according to preference.