Cleaning KIPS powervalve
- amstel78
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Cleaning KIPS powervalve
I've read the service manual and quite a few posts on this site. I think I'm ready to tackle this job. I've noticed quite a bit of low end bogging and believe KIPS may be gummed up.
Couple of quick questions. Where it's stated that the KIPS shaft must be supported when removing the KIPS lever nut (righty-loosey), is there some sort of flat on the shaft that can be held with a box wrench or vise grips? How are you guys supporting the KIPS shaft?
I realize in order to do a proper cleaning and evaluation, the cylinder head has to be removed. Are there other means of cleaning the KIPS system without having to take the cylinder off the bike?
Couple of quick questions. Where it's stated that the KIPS shaft must be supported when removing the KIPS lever nut (righty-loosey), is there some sort of flat on the shaft that can be held with a box wrench or vise grips? How are you guys supporting the KIPS shaft?
I realize in order to do a proper cleaning and evaluation, the cylinder head has to be removed. Are there other means of cleaning the KIPS system without having to take the cylinder off the bike?
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Cleaning KIPS powervalve
On my 89, there is no flat on the shaft to hold when you take the nut off. I did not have to worry as the nut was totally off the shaft when I took the cover off. I just did mine, and it was much easier to line up the valves with the cylinder off. Took me a total of two minutes to make sure the LH PV mark was lined up with the groove in the shaft and then I just looked at the diagram in the service manual to line up the RH PV. Once they were lined up, I made sure the shaft was in the closed position and then I made sure the main PV was closed and pulled it out to engage the shaft. Job done. I'm not saying you can't do it with the cylinder still on the bike, but it makes the job that much easier off the bike.
- SS109
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Cleaning KIPS powervalve
There is no real way to clean the KIPS without disassembling it. Three things to helps keep them cleaner between servicing.
1. Proper jetting - If your bike is properly jetted you will have less waste fuel/oil in the KIPS and less chance of it gumming up.
2. Quality 2T oil - 2T oil is also another important factor. Don't use crap oil. I run Maxima 927 and the general consensus is that it will gum up the KIPS yet I don't seem to have that problem. At least I do know it is a quality oil specifically made to be run in 2T motorcycle engines and not some cheap weed eater/chainsaw oil.
(preparing to get flamed from nonbelievers!)
3. Quality gasoline - I'm sure some will think I'm crazy but I have found that by using Chevron fuel the KIPS stays cleaner longer. As someone who turned a wrench for years on cars/trucks I have personally witnessed what it can do to reduce carbon deposits on exhaust valves and ports. When I got back into riding and read about KIPS servicing I decided I would run nothing but Chevron in my KDX in an attempt to keep them as clean as possible. Over a year of riding on it when I tore the engine down and the KIPS valves were all nice and oily with just a bit of carbon build up. This is with using nothing but the supposedly gummy 927. Of course, I don't know when it was last cleaned before I bought it, if ever, and I know the bike sat for a few years so there is no telling how much was there before I started using it. I am a firm believer in Chevron fuel. Yes, I know all gas is supplied by just a few companies but it is all about what additives have been mixed with the base gasoline and that is where the Chevron seems to differ from other fuels. Flame on!
1. Proper jetting - If your bike is properly jetted you will have less waste fuel/oil in the KIPS and less chance of it gumming up.
2. Quality 2T oil - 2T oil is also another important factor. Don't use crap oil. I run Maxima 927 and the general consensus is that it will gum up the KIPS yet I don't seem to have that problem. At least I do know it is a quality oil specifically made to be run in 2T motorcycle engines and not some cheap weed eater/chainsaw oil.
(preparing to get flamed from nonbelievers!)
3. Quality gasoline - I'm sure some will think I'm crazy but I have found that by using Chevron fuel the KIPS stays cleaner longer. As someone who turned a wrench for years on cars/trucks I have personally witnessed what it can do to reduce carbon deposits on exhaust valves and ports. When I got back into riding and read about KIPS servicing I decided I would run nothing but Chevron in my KDX in an attempt to keep them as clean as possible. Over a year of riding on it when I tore the engine down and the KIPS valves were all nice and oily with just a bit of carbon build up. This is with using nothing but the supposedly gummy 927. Of course, I don't know when it was last cleaned before I bought it, if ever, and I know the bike sat for a few years so there is no telling how much was there before I started using it. I am a firm believer in Chevron fuel. Yes, I know all gas is supplied by just a few companies but it is all about what additives have been mixed with the base gasoline and that is where the Chevron seems to differ from other fuels. Flame on!
Last edited by SS109 on 12:02 am Jul 31 2012, edited 1 time in total.
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AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
- amstel78
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Re: Cleaning KIPS powervalve
Thanks to both for your replies. If there's no flat to hold the shaft can I just use some vice grips to prevent it from turning while I loosen the nut?
Also, are the head and base gaskets reusable or do I have to swap those out?
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Also, are the head and base gaskets reusable or do I have to swap those out?
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- Slick_Nick
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Cleaning KIPS powervalve
I don't know about the E series, but on my H series if you pull the rubber shaft boot down there is a flat spot I seem to recall that you can put a tiny wrench on to hold the shaft??
'00 KDX 220R
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Cleaning KIPS powervalve
If it was me, I would not reuse the base and head gaskets. I'm going to use a vice grip very carefully on the shaft when I tighten it.
- frankenschwinn
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Cleaning KIPS powervalve
Look here:
There is a picture that shows how to hol it in this thread.
http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.ph ... 41&start=0
There is a picture that shows how to hol it in this thread.
http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.ph ... 41&start=0
- scheckaet
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Cleaning KIPS powervalve
you're not really holding the shaft though. There is a flat spot where you can put a small wrench (6-7mm maybe)
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
- amstel78
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Re: Cleaning KIPS powervalve
That picture is worth a thousand words! Thanks!
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- amstel78
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Re: Cleaning KIPS powervalve
OK, got a question for you KDX geniuses. I took the KIPS lever off along with the exhaust pipe, center exhaust valve cover, and LH side cover that has KIPS embossed on it. I wanted to see how freely the KIPS valves moved before committing to disassembling the entire top end. I followed the diagnostic instructions in this link:
http://www.geocities.com/a57ngel/moto/kips.html
The good news is that my KIPS valves move freely with no binding or resistance. I confirmed movement of all three valves. For good measure I sprayed WD40 (which does wonders dissolving crud) into the all 3 exhaust valve orifices as viewed through the exhaust port. I exercised the valves by moving the KIPS shaft back and forth and it was very smooth. Without removing the head, I couldn't tell what the condition of the aluminum valve teeth are, but from the smoothness of motion, I believe they should still be OK. Perhaps the PO kept up on the maintenance afterall?
Anyway, here's my question. I'm about to reassemble everything and was wondering what position the KIPS lever should be in when I tighten the reverse-threaded bolt back onto the operating rod. Should the KIPS shaft and lever be protruding from the engine (valves open) or the reverse (valves closed)? Or does it not matter?
http://www.geocities.com/a57ngel/moto/kips.html
The good news is that my KIPS valves move freely with no binding or resistance. I confirmed movement of all three valves. For good measure I sprayed WD40 (which does wonders dissolving crud) into the all 3 exhaust valve orifices as viewed through the exhaust port. I exercised the valves by moving the KIPS shaft back and forth and it was very smooth. Without removing the head, I couldn't tell what the condition of the aluminum valve teeth are, but from the smoothness of motion, I believe they should still be OK. Perhaps the PO kept up on the maintenance afterall?
Anyway, here's my question. I'm about to reassemble everything and was wondering what position the KIPS lever should be in when I tighten the reverse-threaded bolt back onto the operating rod. Should the KIPS shaft and lever be protruding from the engine (valves open) or the reverse (valves closed)? Or does it not matter?
- rbates9
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Cleaning KIPS powervalve
Yes as a matter of fact you are holding the shaft. The "paw" gear that the adjustable wrench is on is pinned to the shaft and once the nut is loose enough that the pin will not hold the shaft there is no need to support it any more. The reason for holding the shaft is to prevent the lower pin in the side cover from bending or breaking so holding the shaft as shown in the picture is a good way to easily support it.scheckaet wrote:you're not really holding the shaft though. There is a flat spot where you can put a small wrench (6-7mm maybe)
- amstel78
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Re: Cleaning KIPS powervalve
So I'm ready to button it up and tighten the reverse nut; what position should the lever be in?
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- scheckaet
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Cleaning KIPS powervalve
yup, you are right, I forgot about that pin on the shaft going into the claw gear.
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
- rbates9
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Re: Cleaning KIPS powervalve
I forget what page in the manual it is on but I could look it up and get back to you tomorrow.amstel78 wrote:So I'm ready to button it up and tighten the reverse nut; what position should the lever be in?
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- amstel78
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Cleaning KIPS powervalve
There is no pin on the shaft on a 91 KDX, hence my asking as to what position the lever has to be in when tightening the nut. I'm assuming the valves have to be closed thus the lever and shaft in towards the head?rbates9 wrote:Yes as a matter of fact you are holding the shaft. The "paw" gear that the adjustable wrench is on is pinned to the shaft and once the nut is loose enough that the pin will not hold the shaft there is no need to support it any more. The reason for holding the shaft is to prevent the lower pin in the side cover from bending or breaking so holding the shaft as shown in the picture is a good way to easily support it.scheckaet wrote:you're not really holding the shaft though. There is a flat spot where you can put a small wrench (6-7mm maybe)
- amstel78
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Re: Cleaning KIPS powervalve
The manual does not state what position the lever has to be in when re-installing KIPS nor the position the valves have to be in when tightening the reverse nut. There's also no pin on the shaft that secures the lever on a 91 KDX so if the nut is loose, the lever can spin freely.rbates9 wrote:I forget what page in the manual it is on but I could look it up and get back to you tomorrow.amstel78 wrote:So I'm ready to button it up and tighten the reverse nut; what position should the lever be in?
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I am assuming though that if the engine is off, the KIPS valves are obviously closed thus the lever and kips actuating shaft have to be pushed towards the head. Please correct me if I'm mistaken.
- amstel78
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Re: Cleaning KIPS powervalve
Here's the position the lever is in now after tightening the nut. Since the lever and shaft aren't indexed (there's no pin), I want to make sure everything is fine before firing up the motor tomorrow.
- SS109
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Re: Cleaning KIPS powervalve
The E-series manual does state the position in section 5-5 near the top left side of the page. "NOTE Tighten the shaft lever nut while holding the valve operating rod all the way in."amstel78 wrote:The manual does not state what position the lever has to be in when re-installing KIPS nor the position the valves have to be in when tightening the reverse nut.
Youtube Channel: WildAzzRacing
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
- amstel78
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Re: Cleaning KIPS powervalve
Ah.. Brilliant. Was looking under section 4. Thanks!
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- amstel78
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Re: Cleaning KIPS powervalve
Got it all buttoned up. Started the motor and after it was warm, blipped the throttle a few times. The KIPS lever moved back and forth freely with no binding, so all appears to be functioning fine. No need to tear the head apart at this time.
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