Correct, out of state address is ok. Bikes under 300cc don't require VIN verification.rbates9 wrote:Last I heard you don't even need a VT address to do it. One hang up may be getting the VIN verified. They want to do it for cars but I'm not sure about toys.dan46n2 wrote:Ahh, VT- I know all about their registration policies- my wife will be sending in some KDX paperwork to them soon :)
So I've got the carbs apart...Here's the specs:gregp wrote:....There is probably a 45 pilot and a 150 main in the '95, and a 48 pilot and a 165 main in the 2004.
Ah, thanks!rbates9 wrote:If your looking for jetting tips it might be worth looking at http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1156 Some people seem to find it worth while.
My bike came with one and I didn't notice until I had the jug off. When I put everything back together I left it out but installed the RB'd carb, and VForce reeds so I can't say how much it amounts to. I have been thinking about putting it back in just to see.dan46n2 wrote:^ Any experience with the FRP torque ring? For $10, I don't see any harm in trying it out...
I'll be lucky if I can get to WOT in 3rd for any longer than a few seconds...scheckaet wrote:not enough room to go wot to 6th, no problem get it to wot in 5, should be the same, it's all about putting load on the engine.
maybe apply a bit of rear brake too?
I always understood rejetting boils down to this: Giving the bike more air/flow requires more fuel, thus going bigger on jets.Stock -Run the stock R1174K jet needle in the second from the top clip position, 45 pilot jet, 155 main jet and fine-tune the pilot circuit using the air screw.
With a performance pipe/expansion chamber, the air box lid removed and the stock or a performance silencer run a 42/45 pilot, R1174K jet needle in the mid clip position, a 152/155 main jet fine tune the pilot circuit using the air screw.
Checked the 04 and I see 2 copper washers there. Checked the 95 and there are no copper washers on the bolt, leading me to believe that the 95 has the ball and spring removed. I didn't remove yet to verify, but I'll be checking later to confirm and if so, I'll likely try this out on the 04...If you remove the detent ball and spring located under the 8mm bolt on the left side of the motor, the valve will open much sooner, and make the engine much more lively. If you have an "H" series KDX, I recommend that you try this. It only takes a minute or two. It works great in higher speed/traction conditions.
The bolt should have 2 copper washers on it. If you remove one of the washers (preloading the detent ball more), the valve will stay closed longer, which is great for muddy, slippery conditions.
Just be sure to put the bolt back in before you test ride!
Yes, this is a KIPS thing. The bolt I am referring to is on the left side of the motor (as you are sitting on the bike). It is directly *under* the round, slotted KIPS cover. The 8mm bolt head faces straight down at the ground. It is easily identified by the two stacked copper washers under the bolt head. Remove this bolt (with an 8mm open end, or preferably a box wrench) and be very careful because the "bolt" is hollow, and there is a long spring sitting inside of it, with a small ball sitting on top of the spring. If you drop these parts, they are easily lost. Simply remove the ball, and the spring, and reinstall the bolt.
For re-installation, a small dab of grease on the ball will "glue" it to the top of the spring, making re-installation much easier.
The purpose of this device is to "lock" the power valve in the closed position, until there is enough force to drive the valve mechanism past the ball detent. This gives you the long low and mid pull, and a seamless pull into the top end power delivery. Removal of the ball and spring will allow the power valve to open much sooner, letting the engine drive into the top end power quite a bit quicker. You will still have good low end power, but the delivery will be much more abrupt.
I switch back and forth often, depending on conditions.