E vs H series differences
- 2001kdx
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E vs H series differences
I'm looking at buying a cheap bike to run harescrambles with and am looking at getting an E series KDX, as I only have maybe $800 to spend on a 2nd bike. I have a dual sport DR350 right now, but in the woods it is heavy and it is a slow-going thumper that is a bit allergic to a harescramble pace. I had a 2001 200 H series a couple years ago and sold it. I put a pipe on it to wake it up, and put .40 XR400 fork springs to balance the bike since I weigh about 200.
The bike was awesome, but I'm wondering, the E series is liquid cooled and has both disks, and what seems like similar suspension stock, but what does it give up to the '95-06 KDX bikes? I used to be on here all the time, but couldn't seem to dig up a thread that had alot of info of the differences.
The bike was awesome, but I'm wondering, the E series is liquid cooled and has both disks, and what seems like similar suspension stock, but what does it give up to the '95-06 KDX bikes? I used to be on here all the time, but couldn't seem to dig up a thread that had alot of info of the differences.
- scheckaet
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welcome back. some say the e has more grunt than the h, can't confirm or deny since i never rode one. for 8oo u can't go wrong assuming it's in good shape.
What happened to your RM 250?
What happened to your RM 250?
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newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
- 2001kdx
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I sold the RM250 because I had a lapse in health insurance, and bought a dual sport bike to take it easy for awhile. I now have health coverage again and can resume ringing a 2-strokes neck, but I've decided to keep the old thumper, thus my low budget for the KDX. The RM250 was great, but for the tight woods, it was no better, even after suspension and motor mods, than the KDX was.
- Coop
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I don't know how far into NY you are, but on pennswoods classifieds there is a 1993 KDX200 for $550. It is located in Couldersport, PA which is up in north/central PA. I was going to buy it for my nephew but the guy who says he is buying our 1997 CR80 Expert is dragging his feet now.
"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do" - Mark Twain
2003 KDX200
2003 KDX200
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Chassis wise, the E has a backbone-style frame and the H has a perimeter-style frame. I would think the H has an advantage with regards to chassis stiffness, and it probably weighs a bit less, too. The 92 and 93 E series came with USD forks, but they weren't adjustable or very large diameter. The only real advantage they hold is the lack of fork tube below the axle--i.e., they won't snag rocks and ruts as easily as the conventionals.
Engine wise, the H has a redesigned KIPS assembly which is much longer lasting than the E. The E tends to munch subvalves with some regularity. Good incentive to pull the top end every year to inspect and change the valves, but maybe not the incentive you want. The E also has a smaller diameter clutch assembly. I havn't ever ridden an H, but I would hope it has a nicer clutch than the E, which is stiff, it drags, and is very sensitive to adjustment. I think the transmission and bottom end of the H is the same as the E with the exception of the clutch covers and maybe the position of the powervalve governor. Of course, the cylinder and head are different, too. As was mentioned, the E is said to have a bit more low-end power.
The H bikes seem to have more aftermarket support, and some of the OEM parts for the E bikes are getting hard to find.
Either way, you can have a pretty good bike for cheap. If you have any long-term intentions of making a hybrid bike, you should get the H--it makes pipe fitment a lot easier. Happy hunting!
Engine wise, the H has a redesigned KIPS assembly which is much longer lasting than the E. The E tends to munch subvalves with some regularity. Good incentive to pull the top end every year to inspect and change the valves, but maybe not the incentive you want. The E also has a smaller diameter clutch assembly. I havn't ever ridden an H, but I would hope it has a nicer clutch than the E, which is stiff, it drags, and is very sensitive to adjustment. I think the transmission and bottom end of the H is the same as the E with the exception of the clutch covers and maybe the position of the powervalve governor. Of course, the cylinder and head are different, too. As was mentioned, the E is said to have a bit more low-end power.
The H bikes seem to have more aftermarket support, and some of the OEM parts for the E bikes are getting hard to find.
Either way, you can have a pretty good bike for cheap. If you have any long-term intentions of making a hybrid bike, you should get the H--it makes pipe fitment a lot easier. Happy hunting!
David Eckel
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I would have to say the greatest plus of the e series is comfort.The E series is like a lazy boy recliner compared to the newer bikes.While it is a trade off of comfort vs a slimmer more nimble chassis.I prefer the comfort if I'm going on a real trail ride(all day in the saddle) vs just playing around near the truck.
I hate to say it at only 31 but my body just cant stand the abuse it used to take.
I hate to say it at only 31 but my body just cant stand the abuse it used to take.
- rbates9
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seems to be the trend
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- Julien D
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I haven't found anything yet that I couldn't get? Over the past 3 or 4 years I've replaced darn near everything on the bike, some things more than once, lol.
I will admit that eventually it's gonna get harder, but even then I think it will be not too bad. There are still a TON of these things in the woods, and people love them.
Everything everyone has said here seems spot on. The E series engine does seem to pull harder off the bottom. Comfort level is greater on the E. The H feels a bit lighter and more nimble. Power valves are more reliable on the H. I don't consider parts availability a problem, YET. And hopefully not for many years. Even when the NOS stuff dries up, there will still be fleabay.
I will admit that eventually it's gonna get harder, but even then I think it will be not too bad. There are still a TON of these things in the woods, and people love them.
Everything everyone has said here seems spot on. The E series engine does seem to pull harder off the bottom. Comfort level is greater on the E. The H feels a bit lighter and more nimble. Power valves are more reliable on the H. I don't consider parts availability a problem, YET. And hopefully not for many years. Even when the NOS stuff dries up, there will still be fleabay.
- rbates9
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All of the OEM parts are still available as far as I know with the more common wear parts also available by the after market. But what I was getting at was that new cool shiny thing that they make for every bike BUT the KDX. That part kinda sucks.juliend wrote:I haven't found anything yet that I couldn't get? Over the past 3 or 4 years I've replaced darn near everything on the bike, some things more than once, lol.
- Mr. Wibbens
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Well good luck in the next 3 - 4 yearsjuliend wrote:I haven't found anything yet that I couldn't get? Over the past 3 or 4 years I've replaced darn near everything on the bike, some things more than once, lol.
I will admit that eventually it's gonna get harder, but even then I think it will be not too bad. There are still a TON of these things in the woods, and people love them.
Everything everyone has said here seems spot on. The E series engine does seem to pull harder off the bottom. Comfort level is greater on the E. The H feels a bit lighter and more nimble. Power valves are more reliable on the H. I don't consider parts availability a problem, YET. And hopefully not for many years. Even when the NOS stuff dries up, there will still be fleabay.
It seems Ron Ayers will even show that they have certain parts until you try to actually order them
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- SS109
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Service Honda already lists quite a few E series parts as discontinued now.
water pump shaft
clutch basket
KIPS main valve and shaft
front rotor/caliper (early E)
transmission pawl
CDI
flywheel
kick start boss
all "graphics"
almost every rubber piece in the stock silencer
radiators
shrouds
rear caliper
front and rear master cylinders and hoses
side panels
chain guide/rub
transmission input/output shafts and some gears
Plus many more parts that are less prone to needing replacement.
Yeah, I'm sure that list is going to be quite a bit larger in a year.
water pump shaft
clutch basket
KIPS main valve and shaft
front rotor/caliper (early E)
transmission pawl
CDI
flywheel
kick start boss
all "graphics"
almost every rubber piece in the stock silencer
radiators
shrouds
rear caliper
front and rear master cylinders and hoses
side panels
chain guide/rub
transmission input/output shafts and some gears
Plus many more parts that are less prone to needing replacement.
Yeah, I'm sure that list is going to be quite a bit larger in a year.
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- David_L6
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- 2001kdx
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- scheckaet
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jump on it, around here, a stock beat up turd cost more than 1200 bux...
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
- Coop
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