New brake rotor and old pads
- Varmint
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New brake rotor and old pads
Any issue with reinstalling old brake pads (say 25% used) with a spanking new rotor? I know the inverse will eat pads
- canyncarvr
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I do..have...
..as long as the pads don't have a big bow to 'em from chewing on a messed up rotor. That's not going to do your brandy new rotor any favors.
If you haven't...use HEAT on those bolts!! If you don't, you'll at the least bugger up the allen heads...and your wrench/socket, too.
Not that I'd know anything about that personally.........
..as long as the pads don't have a big bow to 'em from chewing on a messed up rotor. That's not going to do your brandy new rotor any favors.
If you haven't...use HEAT on those bolts!! If you don't, you'll at the least bugger up the allen heads...and your wrench/socket, too.
Not that I'd know anything about that personally.........
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- kawagumby
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I'd at least dress them some (figure 8) with sand paper/flat plate so hard quartz-based grit can't find grooves to lodge in between the contacting surfaces and screw up the rotor.
I use anti-seize on the brake pin threads - never a problem since.
I use anti-seize on the brake pin threads - never a problem since.
1994 KDX200, Beta 200rr, yz125, yz250, kx100 modded for adult, gasgas contact 250.
- canyncarvr
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Yes to anti-seize on brake pin threads..
My reference to heat on bolts was regarding the rotor.
...not that you said otherwise, but to be perfectly clear and all.
My reference to heat on bolts was regarding the rotor.
...not that you said otherwise, but to be perfectly clear and all.
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- Varmint
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- canyncarvr
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What brand of spanking new did you get?
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- Varmint
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Here comes trouble. I bought the Tusk rotor on RM. $100+ for the other brands was a hard pill to swallow. The new one has to be better than what I have now. I'm going through 3-4 brake sets per season. I'm not a brake dragger so I'm attributing that to a gouged up disk. We'll see.
Oh and the bolts came off nicely with a shot of PB Blaster and breaker bar. Only requires 16 ft/lbs of torque.
Question: I noticed it had red loctite on the bolts. I used blue. Is that OK?
Oh and the bolts came off nicely with a shot of PB Blaster and breaker bar. Only requires 16 ft/lbs of torque.
Question: I noticed it had red loctite on the bolts. I used blue. Is that OK?
- canyncarvr
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Oh and the bolts came off nicely with a shot of PB Blaster and breaker bar. Only requires 16 ft/lbs of torque.
A breaker bar on a 5-6mm allen?
Question: I noticed it had red loctite on the bolts. I used blue. Is that OK?
Seems there was a recent thread about someone not using any threadlocker. That turned out to be a mistake.
I have no idea over red/blue. I've never used anything but red ('permanent' heat required to remove stuff).
PB Blaster is a penetrant/lubricant...akin to WD40. It's not a threadlocker solvent that I'm aware of.
You got 'em off without breaking any of 'em...or destroying the allen heads...that's a good thing. They are not always that easy.
A breaker bar on a 5-6mm allen?
Question: I noticed it had red loctite on the bolts. I used blue. Is that OK?
Seems there was a recent thread about someone not using any threadlocker. That turned out to be a mistake.
I have no idea over red/blue. I've never used anything but red ('permanent' heat required to remove stuff).
PB Blaster is a penetrant/lubricant...akin to WD40. It's not a threadlocker solvent that I'm aware of.
You got 'em off without breaking any of 'em...or destroying the allen heads...that's a good thing. They are not always that easy.
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- Varmint
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'nother tip: Leave the wheel on to loosen the rotor bolts. Put the bike on a stand, put the bike in gear, crack the bolt (6mm allen), put the bike in neutral, spin the wheel to the next bolt, put in gear, loosen, etc. Dont back them off too much as the bolt head wont go past the pads.
CC, bought a map gas torch anyway just in case. Every garage needs one right? I love buying new tools. Have a nice collection going; drives the wife nuts... and that's my job right?
I slightly boogered one but not enough where I couldn't put it back on to torque spec. Made sure the allen socket had a nice snug STRAIGHT fit in, applied pressure nice and evenly, turned with no problems. Tip: make sure you clean the dirt out of them bolts to get a good deep fit.canyncarvr wrote: You got 'em off without breaking any of 'em...or destroying the allen heads...that's a good thing. They are not always that easy.
'nother tip: Leave the wheel on to loosen the rotor bolts. Put the bike on a stand, put the bike in gear, crack the bolt (6mm allen), put the bike in neutral, spin the wheel to the next bolt, put in gear, loosen, etc. Dont back them off too much as the bolt head wont go past the pads.
CC, bought a map gas torch anyway just in case. Every garage needs one right? I love buying new tools. Have a nice collection going; drives the wife nuts... and that's my job right?
- canyncarvr
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Re: 'Made sure the allen socket had a nice snug STRAIGHT fit in..'
I've never had a problem rounding off an allen wrench edge OR messing up a cap screw trying to get stuck things loose. I don't know why allen wrenches are not made of better steel.
...propane would've worked just fine if you needed heat. 'Permanent' LocTite only needs 5-600º to unstick (I think).
.....but don't tell HER!
I've used BraKing rotors in the past. They're around $100. I'd had a Titax in my parts bin that I hadn't put on because, frankly, it was so incredibly ugly I couldn't stand it.
One dark, lonely night at 2:00a.m. I needed rotor and bolted up the ugly one.
It's worked just fine..had it on for over a year.
Oddly..even though the rotor surface has never been smooth, it doesn't seem to go through pads any faster than the 'better' rotor. I generally use a couple sets a year.
I'd read that cheap rotors give up a lot of braking 'feel'.
..not that I can tell.
It'll work for you just fine!
I've never had a problem rounding off an allen wrench edge OR messing up a cap screw trying to get stuck things loose. I don't know why allen wrenches are not made of better steel.
...propane would've worked just fine if you needed heat. 'Permanent' LocTite only needs 5-600º to unstick (I think).
.....but don't tell HER!
I've used BraKing rotors in the past. They're around $100. I'd had a Titax in my parts bin that I hadn't put on because, frankly, it was so incredibly ugly I couldn't stand it.
One dark, lonely night at 2:00a.m. I needed rotor and bolted up the ugly one.
It's worked just fine..had it on for over a year.
Oddly..even though the rotor surface has never been smooth, it doesn't seem to go through pads any faster than the 'better' rotor. I generally use a couple sets a year.
I'd read that cheap rotors give up a lot of braking 'feel'.
..not that I can tell.
It'll work for you just fine!
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