fork springs on a 2004 220
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fork springs on a 2004 220
Hey guys, this is my first post. I just got a 2004 220. I haven't been on a bike in almost 20 years. I keep reading that the forks are the weak link on this bike. I was wondering what the best spring was for my weight and riding style. I am 200# and will mainly ride trail/ singletrack. What is the best spring for the money and any recommendations on fork oil would be good also. I think yall have an awesome website, thanks for any help you can give me...
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Coffekid go to http://www.racetech.com Under the 'search' tab, go to 'spring rate search'
Use that spring rate calculator to see what springs you need, it gives you options to include weight and terrain variables.
Racetech springs are $109.99 a pair and they come with at least one sticker!
I think that is the most common site used. Good luck welcome to the site.
Use that spring rate calculator to see what springs you need, it gives you options to include weight and terrain variables.
Racetech springs are $109.99 a pair and they come with at least one sticker!
I think that is the most common site used. Good luck welcome to the site.
its a '04 KDX 220 cadillac
- zomby woof
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The stock forks are a bit undersprung on the stock KDX. At least mine were at 170 Lb.
Do a little search on XR400 springs. There are two OEM rates available and work well in the KDX.
I ended up at 7.5 wt oil, mixing 5 and 10 50/50.....Another search!
Do a little search on XR400 springs. There are two OEM rates available and work well in the KDX.
I ended up at 7.5 wt oil, mixing 5 and 10 50/50.....Another search!
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****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- canyncarvr
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The weak link in the 220 is the PISTON!!!I keep reading that the forks are the weak link on this bike.
If the bike has an OEM piston in it..change it first.
RaceTech's recommendations are generally on the 'high' side of things for woods/trail riding. If you're going to be an MX-jumper-guy, besides being dead doing that on a 220 so it won't matter, RT's recs are good.
The OEM spring length is around 470mm. There is a steel tube of a preload spacer in 'em about 90mm.
Some folks think a fork leg full of solid steel spacer is neat. I think it's stupid. Put SPRING in there! Hence...the XR springs..which will generally run 530mm or so. Install them with something other than the OEM brain-dead 35mm preload.
You're better off with Honda springs..not springs FOR a Honda from some third party mfg.
Yep. Guarandamteed to be all IMO and worth every penny it cost!!
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- canyncarvr
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Better'n gettin' forked BY a piston.
..right away or later.
..right away or later.
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Why Honda springs instead of PC or such? Probably won't have one for my 230#?canyncarvr wrote:The weak link in the 220 is the PISTON!!!I keep reading that the forks are the weak link on this bike.
You're better off with Honda springs..not springs FOR a Honda from some third party mfg.
What do to about the poor piston?
Thanks....
- canyncarvr
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Honda springs are hot wound. Most 3rd party springs are cold-wound. Some folks argue there isn't a difference. Suspension folks that I have asked about it..folks in the industry that I respect..their preference is hot-wound.
...if you can get 'em.
Re: 'What do to about the poor piston?'
Replace it.
...if you can get 'em.
Re: 'What do to about the poor piston?'
Replace it.
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To each his own, I find RaceTech's recommendation to be spot on
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- canyncarvr
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Re: 'Any recommondations on tranny fluid?'
Are you just ACHIN' to cause trouble?
More of everybody's opinions..with no clear winner.
...except...everyone thinks THEIR choice is the obvious (and probably ONLY) one.
The Kawi spec sheet lists 10w-30/40 SE grade motor oil. ANYthing that is listed as 'energy conserving' should not be used.
An oil specifically engineered for wet clutch use is good. The levels of zinc and phosphorus in 'new'er spec'd oils are very low..and wet clutches like that stuff.
I've used the spec'd oil..motor oil. I prefer a motorcycle-specific (for wet clutch use) oil. That preference is based on....what? IMO, of course. The bike shifts better, shifts are consistent over the course of the oil's use...a couple-three rides.
Re: 'im going to play with the oil level...'
Good. You will find quite a large difference from changing the 'amount' of air-shock in the front forks. I don't know what going through that process with a clearly wrong spring will accmplish. With some 530mm springs suited for your weight/riding style and a 3-8mm preload, everything is going to be different.
Are you just ACHIN' to cause trouble?
More of everybody's opinions..with no clear winner.
...except...everyone thinks THEIR choice is the obvious (and probably ONLY) one.
The Kawi spec sheet lists 10w-30/40 SE grade motor oil. ANYthing that is listed as 'energy conserving' should not be used.
An oil specifically engineered for wet clutch use is good. The levels of zinc and phosphorus in 'new'er spec'd oils are very low..and wet clutches like that stuff.
I've used the spec'd oil..motor oil. I prefer a motorcycle-specific (for wet clutch use) oil. That preference is based on....what? IMO, of course. The bike shifts better, shifts are consistent over the course of the oil's use...a couple-three rides.
Re: 'im going to play with the oil level...'
Good. You will find quite a large difference from changing the 'amount' of air-shock in the front forks. I don't know what going through that process with a clearly wrong spring will accmplish. With some 530mm springs suited for your weight/riding style and a 3-8mm preload, everything is going to be different.
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
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