Hi all I have just been told to check that my power valve is working ( see my posting about poor low rev running ) I have looked on the forum but cant find how to check my power valve can some one tell the newbie how to do this .
Sorry Jono
Power valves
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Power valves
Been riding off road for 10 years still finding out how best to do it.Riden a DR125 then a DT125R then a DR125 then DRZ400 then XR250 then a TE610 now I hope that I have found the best a KDX220 just to add the KDX has gone now riding a WR426 which I love and is so much better than the KDX.
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how i did it was to remove the exhaust and look up inside the cylinder then manually operate the valve making sure both of the kips valves open and close.
that does not verify that it is working when the engine is running though.
would be noisy if u did that when running,but i guess the only way?
only a newb here myself too.
that does not verify that it is working when the engine is running though.
would be noisy if u did that when running,but i guess the only way?
only a newb here myself too.
- Julien D
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step 1 - remove the plastic cover on the RH side and observe if the rod is actuating when you rev the engine. If so, the governor portion is functioning properly.
step 2 - remove the pipe and look up the exhaust port as you actuate the rod by hand. You should see the valves moving.
I would NOT run the engine with the pipe removed....
J.
step 2 - remove the pipe and look up the exhaust port as you actuate the rod by hand. You should see the valves moving.
I would NOT run the engine with the pipe removed....
J.
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Thanks for all your input, looks like a little job for the weekend.
Jono
Jono
Been riding off road for 10 years still finding out how best to do it.Riden a DR125 then a DT125R then a DR125 then DRZ400 then XR250 then a TE610 now I hope that I have found the best a KDX220 just to add the KDX has gone now riding a WR426 which I love and is so much better than the KDX.
- canyncarvr
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I'd do it a bit differently...
Two steps are required, one to tell if the system is being activated, one to tell if that activation does what it is supposed to. Doesn't matter which order you do 'em in.
Remove the slotted cover on the LH side of the cylinder. Remove the pipe. Move the rod via the nut under the LH cover while watching the three valves in the cylinder (via the exhaust port). Check to ensure the two subport drums rotate similarly (in opposite directions, but timed the same..both open at the same time, close to the same position). Ensure the main valve (the flapper in the middle) moves up when you physically rotate the main shaft.
Put the pipe back on/in. Start the bike. While watching the rod under that slotted cover, ensure that rod moves when the bike is revved. 6000RPM is the point at which the KIPS activates, so you won't see it 'open' at a low engine speed.
If that all checks out, the KIPS works.
That doesn't mean it wouldn't benefit from being cleaned. The Hemholtz resonator (the cavity under the cover that says KIPS on it on the LH side of the cylinder) could be completely full of gunk, the bike wouldn't run very well, and everything you checked of the mechanical parts could still operate as they are supposed to.
You can remove the cover on the RH side to see if the governor rod (and thus the main rod) is working. I find that more of a hassle than removing the slotted cover on the other side. If the LH end ain't moving, either the RH ain't moving either...or something is broken inbetween.
JUST checking either side of the main rod for movement with the engine running doesn't tell you anything about what's going on IN the cylinder. And just watching the valve/subport drums move with manual activation doesn't tell you what the engine's doing to 'em.
Two steps are required, one to tell if the system is being activated, one to tell if that activation does what it is supposed to. Doesn't matter which order you do 'em in.
Remove the slotted cover on the LH side of the cylinder. Remove the pipe. Move the rod via the nut under the LH cover while watching the three valves in the cylinder (via the exhaust port). Check to ensure the two subport drums rotate similarly (in opposite directions, but timed the same..both open at the same time, close to the same position). Ensure the main valve (the flapper in the middle) moves up when you physically rotate the main shaft.
Put the pipe back on/in. Start the bike. While watching the rod under that slotted cover, ensure that rod moves when the bike is revved. 6000RPM is the point at which the KIPS activates, so you won't see it 'open' at a low engine speed.
If that all checks out, the KIPS works.
That doesn't mean it wouldn't benefit from being cleaned. The Hemholtz resonator (the cavity under the cover that says KIPS on it on the LH side of the cylinder) could be completely full of gunk, the bike wouldn't run very well, and everything you checked of the mechanical parts could still operate as they are supposed to.
You can remove the cover on the RH side to see if the governor rod (and thus the main rod) is working. I find that more of a hassle than removing the slotted cover on the other side. If the LH end ain't moving, either the RH ain't moving either...or something is broken inbetween.
JUST checking either side of the main rod for movement with the engine running doesn't tell you anything about what's going on IN the cylinder. And just watching the valve/subport drums move with manual activation doesn't tell you what the engine's doing to 'em.
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!
- Julien D
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- canyncarvr
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Ha! And I assumed an 'A' or an 'H'.
From the sig line, it's a 220, so guess it's not an 'E'.....
FWIW...when a question is posted about a KDX...say what model it is!!
And realize that an SR bike is NOT a US bike..so mention that too.
That will save a whole lot of head scratching on both ends.
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..meaning originator/responder ends...not both ends of your head!
From the sig line, it's a 220, so guess it's not an 'E'.....
FWIW...when a question is posted about a KDX...say what model it is!!
And realize that an SR bike is NOT a US bike..so mention that too.
That will save a whole lot of head scratching on both ends.
.
.
.
..meaning originator/responder ends...not both ends of your head!
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!
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Hi sorry I missed the full spec it's a 2003 KDX220R A, thanks again for all the input from you guys and thanks for taking the time to help.Jono
Been riding off road for 10 years still finding out how best to do it.Riden a DR125 then a DT125R then a DR125 then DRZ400 then XR250 then a TE610 now I hope that I have found the best a KDX220 just to add the KDX has gone now riding a WR426 which I love and is so much better than the KDX.