Not shifting smoothly
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Not shifting smoothly
I have started noticing a catch when shifting. I also notice that unless I pull the clutch in far in as I can, I mean really squeezing it tight, it doesn't seem like the gears are disengaging. As an example, it's almost impossible to start it in gear with the clutch in and when going down hill, I have to really pull the clutch hard to fully disengage the tranny. I notice this too if I try to pull in the clutch and roll the bike while still in gear, like when stalled on a hill and trying to roll up/down.
There is hardly any play in the lever, so I don't think it needs to be adjusted there. Do I need to adjust the cable near the gear box? Do you think the cable itself needs lubed or replaced? I have checked trans oil and it is at the level it should be and is fresh - changed not long ago.
Thanks
There is hardly any play in the lever, so I don't think it needs to be adjusted there. Do I need to adjust the cable near the gear box? Do you think the cable itself needs lubed or replaced? I have checked trans oil and it is at the level it should be and is fresh - changed not long ago.
Thanks
- Jeb
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- kawagumby
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Usually its the oil when your clutch drags. If you just changed the oil cold without first running the engine to full warm, the plates tend to remain contaminated with particulates from the settled sediment. Warming the engine before changing the oil makes a huge difference, clutch-wise.
1994 KDX200, Beta 200rr, yz125, yz250, kx100 modded for adult, gasgas contact 250.
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That's possible. It's been a couple of months since I changed the oil so I don't remember for sure if I warmed it up. I haven't ridden a whole during that 2 month period though.
I used Kawi engine oil, 10W-40, .7 quarts (per the owner's manual). I am almost sure I ran the engine for a couple of minutes to warm it up prior to changing.
I would say it came on gradually, but seems more noticeable in the last month or so. It's to the point though that the bike even lunges a bit when I put it in 1st gear out of neutral, and that's with the clutch lever in pretty well.
You don't have any suggestions on adjusting the clutch cable? As mentioned, there is virtually no play in the clutch lever, so I don't know what more I could adjust. I can certainly change the oil again. It's quick and inexpensive and worth a try.
I used Kawi engine oil, 10W-40, .7 quarts (per the owner's manual). I am almost sure I ran the engine for a couple of minutes to warm it up prior to changing.
I would say it came on gradually, but seems more noticeable in the last month or so. It's to the point though that the bike even lunges a bit when I put it in 1st gear out of neutral, and that's with the clutch lever in pretty well.
You don't have any suggestions on adjusting the clutch cable? As mentioned, there is virtually no play in the clutch lever, so I don't know what more I could adjust. I can certainly change the oil again. It's quick and inexpensive and worth a try.
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- Rick
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Well, who wants to tell him about the clutch basket grooving? Im not very good at explaining things.....
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1991 KDX 250 $Sold but not forgotten....
1996 Suzuki DR 350 $Sold!
2002 Honda CR 250 worth more than my house at this point........ :-)
2004 DR 650se Road Warrior
2002 DL1000 V-STROM
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It does seem to get better as the bike and oil warms up. At first, it chalked it up to cold oil as it seemed by far most noticeable when I would first start riding, especially that first kick into gear out of neutral. But it seems now like the difficulty in shifting is happening through pretty much all gears and does not seem better after the bike has warmed up.
It's to the point that I have to make a little extra effort to be sure I am getting a complete shift between gears and I am finding myself getting 'caught' in neutral when going from 1st to 2nd gear at least a couple of times per ride. I have to really give the shifter a solid lift of the toe to avoid this. My previous bike, a 4 stroke, didn't seem to do this at all. And I watch just about everyone pull in the clutch lever and start their bikes in gear, but I can't really do that at all.
Thanks for the help. Merry Christmas everyone.
It's to the point that I have to make a little extra effort to be sure I am getting a complete shift between gears and I am finding myself getting 'caught' in neutral when going from 1st to 2nd gear at least a couple of times per ride. I have to really give the shifter a solid lift of the toe to avoid this. My previous bike, a 4 stroke, didn't seem to do this at all. And I watch just about everyone pull in the clutch lever and start their bikes in gear, but I can't really do that at all.
Thanks for the help. Merry Christmas everyone.
- Indawoods
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Change your oil again and use an entire quart. In the winter use 10/30w...
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"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- Ondatrail
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I asked my father if a should use a full quart a while back and he said something like it made more or less pressure in the transmission= not good. Have you been doing this for a while Inda?Indawoods wrote:Change your oil again and use an entire quart. In the winter use 10/30w...
Last edited by Ondatrail on 09:44 pm Dec 25 2007, edited 1 time in total.
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- Indawoods
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Everybody does it on a KDX... there is no "pressure" in the transmission... it's a bath.....
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- Ondatrail
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Anything that doesn't say "Energy Conserving" on the EPA sticker. I use Motul Transoil, but I think some synthetics/semi synthetics like Valvoline High Mileage, and a few of the Mobil's will not state "Energy Conserving." These don't contain friction modifiers that could hurt your clutch plates. For dino oil.....SAE30w every ride IMO.
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'95 KDX 200 Project $600 KDX
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- canyncarvr
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I use 150ml (or so) of a new quart as a flush before I put the drain plug back in..then dump in what's left. No partial bottles..and I have the satisfaction of thinking I'm doing something good by kind'a rinsing out the last bit of gear teeth bits sitting in the bottom of the case.
Re: 'Well, who wants to tell him about the clutch basket grooving?'
Pretty good chance of that.
The fingers in the basket get notched from the friction plate tabs banging on them all the time (any time you use the clutch). When the basket fingers get notched deeply enough, the plates don't move when you pull the lever..the clutch 'sticks'.
This pic courtesy of the Rekluse site:
Re: 'Well, who wants to tell him about the clutch basket grooving?'
Pretty good chance of that.
The fingers in the basket get notched from the friction plate tabs banging on them all the time (any time you use the clutch). When the basket fingers get notched deeply enough, the plates don't move when you pull the lever..the clutch 'sticks'.
This pic courtesy of the Rekluse site:
Consider the source
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Thanks Canyon. That is an obvious, yet great idea regarding flushing out settlement. I will do that from now on. I am going to try Inda's suggestion of using a full quart and see if that makes a difference. If not, I guess the next step will be to look at the clutch basket and see if it resembles what is shown in the pic you posted.
Thanks for all the help. I'm ready to get back to smooth shifting and riding instead of trouble-shooting.
Thanks for all the help. I'm ready to get back to smooth shifting and riding instead of trouble-shooting.
- canyncarvr
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Clutch action in the KDX is less than stellar on a good day. You mentioned downhill clutch problems... That's pretty much always going to be there. If the bike stalls on a downhill and the bike's in gear, getting it OUT of gear (or getting it shifted into another gear) on the way down doesn't ever work well, if at all.
There are other things that effect clutch operation, as you mentioned.
As the plates wear, the angle of the activating lever changes. There are shims used between the that activating rod and the throwout bearing to adjust for that. You want the most lateral movement possible and that comes with the arm on the rod (where the cable attaches) moving through a 90º position during the pull.
Clutch cables do wear out..giving cable movement when there should be lever movement.
Clutch levers and cable pivots wear out..same effect, loss of movement in the desired direction/axis.
The whole lashup of the activating rod/case is less than stellar. Over time there gets to be some slop at the top. ...more wasted movement.
A lot of it comes down to clutch pack oiling. My bike shifts a whole lot better since I put in a new basket (Hinson) that has better oiling orifices.
You can make it better....just throw $$$$ at it!!
There are other things that effect clutch operation, as you mentioned.
As the plates wear, the angle of the activating lever changes. There are shims used between the that activating rod and the throwout bearing to adjust for that. You want the most lateral movement possible and that comes with the arm on the rod (where the cable attaches) moving through a 90º position during the pull.
Clutch cables do wear out..giving cable movement when there should be lever movement.
Clutch levers and cable pivots wear out..same effect, loss of movement in the desired direction/axis.
The whole lashup of the activating rod/case is less than stellar. Over time there gets to be some slop at the top. ...more wasted movement.
A lot of it comes down to clutch pack oiling. My bike shifts a whole lot better since I put in a new basket (Hinson) that has better oiling orifices.
You can make it better....just throw $$$$ at it!!
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
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