Bike Lurching
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Bike Lurching
Hello I have a 1990 kdx 200 and when I pull in the clutch and engage the gear it jumps ahead, if the RPMs are high it is fine but as soon as they drop it tries to pull ahead and usually stalls?? I am sure you guys know whats wrong
- 2001kdx
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Try adjusting it....
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
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- canyncarvr
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A notched clutch basket will do that. The plates cannot separate when spring tension is released (lever pulled) because they stick in the notches. They are no longer pressed together...but they won't float free, either.
Other problems show the same symptom: Warped plates (mentioned), improper clutch assembly (improper shim use between actuator/throwout bearing), worn out actuator arm, crummy oil (dirty, wrong type..), worn out clutch cable-pivot-lever...
Lots of things...exact same symptom.
You can take a peek at the clutch basket fingers through the oil filler hole. It only takes a couple of minutes to pull the clutch cover off for a real good look.
Other problems show the same symptom: Warped plates (mentioned), improper clutch assembly (improper shim use between actuator/throwout bearing), worn out actuator arm, crummy oil (dirty, wrong type..), worn out clutch cable-pivot-lever...
Lots of things...exact same symptom.
You can take a peek at the clutch basket fingers through the oil filler hole. It only takes a couple of minutes to pull the clutch cover off for a real good look.
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- canyncarvr
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KDXs are noisy in the clutch area. That's the basis of 'The KDX Rattle' term. It's not generally referred to as a 'tick' though. That is a concern.
Check the KIPS for proper operation. Remove the slotted cover on the LH side of the cylinder, start the bike (assumed warm already), blip the bike to a fairly high rev (6000RPM is the spec point..it's around there), observe the nut under that cover. It should rotate CW at the trip point, return when the revs come down. You can manually rotate the nut (engine off) to get an idea how far the nut rotates. Maybe stick a piece of tape on it to make it easier to see when the engine is running.
E MODEL ALERT!! Don't think the E has that cover.
If that nut moves, the centrifigal actuator is working. If it does not move, chances are good the actuator is broken..and THAT could lead to a ticking noise. The actuator is commonly tweaked/broken because the nut that holds a driving gear on the RH side of the bike on is LHT. Folks 'lefty-loosey' the nut (or turn it the correct way without supporting the advancer shaft)...and stuff breaks.
The slipping kicker part is either an incorrectly assembled kicker mechanism or a broken spring.
Have fun!
Check the KIPS for proper operation. Remove the slotted cover on the LH side of the cylinder, start the bike (assumed warm already), blip the bike to a fairly high rev (6000RPM is the spec point..it's around there), observe the nut under that cover. It should rotate CW at the trip point, return when the revs come down. You can manually rotate the nut (engine off) to get an idea how far the nut rotates. Maybe stick a piece of tape on it to make it easier to see when the engine is running.
E MODEL ALERT!! Don't think the E has that cover.
If that nut moves, the centrifigal actuator is working. If it does not move, chances are good the actuator is broken..and THAT could lead to a ticking noise. The actuator is commonly tweaked/broken because the nut that holds a driving gear on the RH side of the bike on is LHT. Folks 'lefty-loosey' the nut (or turn it the correct way without supporting the advancer shaft)...and stuff breaks.
The slipping kicker part is either an incorrectly assembled kicker mechanism or a broken spring.
Have fun!
Last edited by canyncarvr on 12:03 pm Sep 08 2007, edited 1 time in total.
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- 2001kdx
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'How the hell do you guys know so much'
I get most'a my true facts off the backs of cereal boxes....
Well, them and Bazooka wrappers.
That's how I know your comment wasn't direct toward me, so I din't take it personal.
'Sides...nothin' erudite said yet..just normal/simple bike maintenance.
Re: 'If I were to only go on that site for a couple months, then came on here after, I'd be askin the same thing.'
You sayin' thumpers are STOOPID!!??
I get most'a my true facts off the backs of cereal boxes....
Well, them and Bazooka wrappers.
That's how I know your comment wasn't direct toward me, so I din't take it personal.
'Sides...nothin' erudite said yet..just normal/simple bike maintenance.
Re: 'If I were to only go on that site for a couple months, then came on here after, I'd be askin the same thing.'
You sayin' thumpers are STOOPID!!??
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
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- Jeb
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jonyfiver wrote:so I guess I am the stoopid one if it's simple normal maint??? I used thumpertalk alot and it was very helpfull
Your question was quite reasonable; our KDXs are noisy and it's understandable to be concerned.
I use TT and even other websites to get different perspectives about things and have found them to be useful, but I've found that kdxrider is THE resource for KDX info.
A recent experience for me: I had a notchy clutch basket and didn't see the notches until I took the clutch out and apart. That stated, I'm not exactly a pro at this stuff . . .
so keep lookin' and keep askin' questions - that's what this website is all about.
- 2001kdx
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No. There are a lot of helpful and insightful people on there, but you just can't post a topic about buying something with say... a $200 budget wthiout 11 people reccomending products that retail for twice that. After a while, it gets annoying.canyncarvr wrote:You sayin' thumpers are STOOPID!!??
I'm thinking that's one of the biggest issues I've had from going to the KDX to the RM, there's no RMRIDER.NET!
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Nothing brought up in this thread so far is outside of normal maintenance and common problems..that doesn't mean it all falls under the heading of 'Things to do to your bike every day'. Neither does them not being known make anyone stupid. Those two ideas were disparate in nature, not linked or placed together in any way. Other than hyperbolic stretch for intent of humor, I don't know why the two got in the same sentence to start with.
Anyway....
The 'lurch' part isn't likely something that will cause catastrophic damage if it's not resolved immediately. It's quite common as a result of normal wear and tear on 'stuff' mentioned already. Change your oil often (every couple rides) and it will probably be just fine.
Again, KDXs are noisy. There is a marked difference in the noise between clutch en/disen-gaged. That's normal for the KDX. It's the tick part..and that just a word that I wouldn't use if I heard it.
There IS a likely imminent disaster on the way if the 'tick' comes from a broken piece of the KIPS actuator knocking around under the RH clutch cover. You would be well served to make sure the LH KIPS nut is being activated as it should be. If it is not..that problem needs to be fixed as soon as possible. Yes...it may have been that way for months, but a metal piece floating around the case is a disaster waiting for just the right movement to happen.
Another 'E' series (your bike) owner needs to chime in on how to verify proper KIPS operation. I don't think that model has the slotted access cover on the LH side..its KIPS is considerably different in nature than the 'H' model.
THAT all said...the noise is more likely to be normal racket than anything busted. But, I'd rather see you replace a $5 part than have the cases crack like an egg..so a KIPS check would be a good idea.
Riders do break them on a regular basis.
Anyway....
The 'lurch' part isn't likely something that will cause catastrophic damage if it's not resolved immediately. It's quite common as a result of normal wear and tear on 'stuff' mentioned already. Change your oil often (every couple rides) and it will probably be just fine.
Again, KDXs are noisy. There is a marked difference in the noise between clutch en/disen-gaged. That's normal for the KDX. It's the tick part..and that just a word that I wouldn't use if I heard it.
There IS a likely imminent disaster on the way if the 'tick' comes from a broken piece of the KIPS actuator knocking around under the RH clutch cover. You would be well served to make sure the LH KIPS nut is being activated as it should be. If it is not..that problem needs to be fixed as soon as possible. Yes...it may have been that way for months, but a metal piece floating around the case is a disaster waiting for just the right movement to happen.
Another 'E' series (your bike) owner needs to chime in on how to verify proper KIPS operation. I don't think that model has the slotted access cover on the LH side..its KIPS is considerably different in nature than the 'H' model.
THAT all said...the noise is more likely to be normal racket than anything busted. But, I'd rather see you replace a $5 part than have the cases crack like an egg..so a KIPS check would be a good idea.
Riders do break them on a regular basis.
Consider the source
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