KIPS cleaning/inspection...when and how often?

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wanaride
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KIPS cleaning/inspection...when and how often?

Post by wanaride »

My '03 KDX200 is approaching 4 years of service (only 1500 miles on it, very sad I know). I have never inspected the KIPS but the bike is still running as well as it ever has.

I can't remember if the service manual has a recommended inspection schedule for the KIPS.

I'm torn between "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", and my Navy background of "preventive maintenance is key".

How often do you inspect the KIPS? How do you know it needs to be inspected?
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Post by 2001kdx »

What the heck is KIPS??? :neutral:
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Post by wanaride »

Kawasaki Integrated Powervalve System...the powervalve in the bike's engine...
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Post by 2001kdx »

Sorry about that I was kidding. I just have never seviced it, like you my bike has some 1k - 2k miles and 4 years of use. I believe there is a maintenance chart over on canadian dave's that says annual powervalve inspection. Not sure.
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Post by canyncarvr »

You can check its condition fairly well with manual activation using the nut on the end of the main rod (under the slotted cover on the LH side of the engine). If it turns smoothly and returns to rest, it's probably fine.

The 'H' model KPS doesn't have the 'stripped all the time' problems some of the earlier models had.

Not to pile on...but 1500 miles in four years?

I'm sorry. :sad:

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Post by Jeb »

This seems like a great place to pose this question:

I get the smooth rotation as observed at the nut at the end of the main rod, but I do see a little bit of movement just as the RPMs build when I first crack the throttle. Does anyone else see this happening or suspect a problem?
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Post by canyncarvr »

I've not bothered to look at the thing with the engine running...I know it works, I know the integrity of the KIPS is OK...so why bother?

Could you 'splain 'little bit of...'? Meaning you see that before the 6000K activation point..at which time it moves 'all' the way? Or...when you crack the throttle to that point, the 'little bit' is the sum total of what you see?

Or...that is the amount of movement available as slack in the system (you could feel that by hand)...maybe related to the detent spring being smushed?

That spring is about as good a quality as is the kicker detent spring.

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Post by 2001kdx »

CC, I bought the bike 10 months ago and it was a low mileage bike, some 500 miles I would assume. So i've put a grand on it during 10 months.

It doesn't sit for extended periods, let me tell you.

Nice Indian Weed smoker avatar, too.
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Post by canyncarvr »

He's a Moki Indian...who knows WHAT he's 'mokin'!?
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Cloves, prolly......... :wink:

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Post by wanaride »

Yes, 1500 miles in four years is sad indeed. :cry:

A broken wrist (bike) and a seriously damaged left shoulder (icy steps :oops: ) kept me out of the saddle for a long time, and family responsibilities don't contribute to saddle time either. I'm planning to start real riding again ASAP (this weekend Lord willing). Sounds like the KIPS won't keep me from it!
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Post by kdennan »

I would guess that I am right around a thousand miles on my new 220.
I did put in a wiseco piston right away.
So, what I am to understand is that if I take off the slotted cap, turn the bolt and it moves freely and returns it should be fine?
Not that I am trying to get out of tearing her down but, maybe I am. What is not broken should not be fixed, right?
I certainly have not noticed much of any spooge. A little right at the exhaust flange around the outside of the expansion chamber. I would say that it looks normal and can only be getting by due to the fact that I have an FRP torque ring in there which keeps the second o-ring on the pipe from seating into the head flange. No?
Definitely not any significant spooge out of the stock silencer. Barely any atall.
I have asked Mr. Fredette if I should do the top end and he said no worries if I have been dilligent about cleaning my filter> which I have.
Tanks :grin:
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: 'So, what I am to understand is that if I take off the slotted cap, turn the bolt and it moves freely and returns it should be fine?'

Probably.

There is still a chance of having a subport drum that doesn't work. You can see THEM by taking the pipe off and looking up into the exhaust port.

But, again, subport drum/activating rod failures are far less common in 'H' models than 'E' models.

..although I had one (failure in an 'H' model).

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Post by Indawoods »

Your bike considered yours a consumable CC.... :mrgreen:
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