Fredette Kickstater?
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Fredette Kickstater?
Its been almost 30 days since I have purchased something for my beloved KDX. Winter stir crazy.
On thumper talk, saw a few threads of people highly recommending his kickstarter. My question is - is it worth it?
Looks shorter - does that make it harder to kick your bike? I guess the advantage is that it would not smack your foot pegs.
Does anyone have them? Thoughts?
Thanks, Steve
On thumper talk, saw a few threads of people highly recommending his kickstarter. My question is - is it worth it?
Looks shorter - does that make it harder to kick your bike? I guess the advantage is that it would not smack your foot pegs.
Does anyone have them? Thoughts?
Thanks, Steve
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I have a shorty & it is noce to have a shorter kick when in a compromising postion
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2005 KDX 220R
1985 KDX 200A3
2005 KLX 125L (SONS)
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Thanks to my 2008 Sponsers:
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Re: 'Is it worth it?'
Yes.
Yes, I have one.
But, I replaced the OEM kicker after it became so wonky (bent) I couldn't keep my foot on the thing. It's too long, too heavy, and made of pot metal.
Something to keep in mind..putting a new kick lever on a worn out knuckle is a waste of time and money. ONLY if your existing knuckle shows no signs of excessive wear (nice and snug to the OEM kicker) would I put a new kicker on IT. Otherwise, buy both at the same time.
Also, expect the spring in the detent to be no good. The OEM spring has the spring characteristic of solder. Go to the local hardware store and pick a suitable replacement length/thickness-wise.
There may still be some bad input floating around from when Fredette first sold his kickers...but they have long since been redesigned. When he first offered them, they didn't hold up well at all.
They be better now! I've had mine on for...uh...probably about four years..which, by the way, I'm quite sure is longer than I've had deer guts on my doorknob!
Yes.
Yes, I have one.
But, I replaced the OEM kicker after it became so wonky (bent) I couldn't keep my foot on the thing. It's too long, too heavy, and made of pot metal.
Something to keep in mind..putting a new kick lever on a worn out knuckle is a waste of time and money. ONLY if your existing knuckle shows no signs of excessive wear (nice and snug to the OEM kicker) would I put a new kicker on IT. Otherwise, buy both at the same time.
Also, expect the spring in the detent to be no good. The OEM spring has the spring characteristic of solder. Go to the local hardware store and pick a suitable replacement length/thickness-wise.
There may still be some bad input floating around from when Fredette first sold his kickers...but they have long since been redesigned. When he first offered them, they didn't hold up well at all.
They be better now! I've had mine on for...uh...probably about four years..which, by the way, I'm quite sure is longer than I've had deer guts on my doorknob!
Last edited by canyncarvr on 03:33 pm Feb 14 2007, edited 1 time in total.
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I just recieved mine last week. I also got a new knuckle for it. I purchased a KX lever off Ebay but I would have had to modify the knuckle to make it work and that didn't set set too well with me concidering the new knuckle was $38 or so.
One question though. Do I need to use O rings? The fittment is so close that I couldn't use any that I had around the house. They would just get SHAVED trying to put the two together.
Vinny
One question though. Do I need to use O rings? The fittment is so close that I couldn't use any that I had around the house. They would just get SHAVED trying to put the two together.
Vinny
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I have a Fredette kicker.
I think you have to use the O-rings, it will open/close too easy without them, I suspect. I had to put the knuckle and lever in a vice to push them together.
I had to file a bit off the knuckle - watch for that!
Pushing it through gently by hand, the knuckle would hit the case below the kick start shaft, about 1/2 way between the kick start shaft and the brake pedal.
It would have put a nice hole in the case if someone hadn't warned me to watch out for it.
Here is a bit of information that might be usefull to someone: the kickstart lever on a newer KX100 is crap. The lever off a '95 KX125 is perfect for it.
I think you have to use the O-rings, it will open/close too easy without them, I suspect. I had to put the knuckle and lever in a vice to push them together.
I had to file a bit off the knuckle - watch for that!
Pushing it through gently by hand, the knuckle would hit the case below the kick start shaft, about 1/2 way between the kick start shaft and the brake pedal.
It would have put a nice hole in the case if someone hadn't warned me to watch out for it.
Here is a bit of information that might be usefull to someone: the kickstart lever on a newer KX100 is crap. The lever off a '95 KX125 is perfect for it.
'08 KTM200xc
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
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Re: fitment of the FRP kicker
Yeah...DO check it!! The problem Karl mentions is one known interference...although I thought that was with the 'old' style FRP piece. Karl: Your FRP kicker is NEW? From Fredette?
Re: 'I guess the advantage is that it would not smack your foot pegs.'
Not exactly.....
With a short kicker...your boot no longer sweeps below the footpeg. The FRP unit is just long enough to place the sole of your boot against the footpeg at the bottom of the stroke. If you tend to put anything other than your TOE on the kicker, you will likely tear up the sole of your boot.
I've been through something like 3-4 soles on my Tech8s for that very reason. Oddly enough (well, consider the source!) I just realized recently howcome my boots were going south so fast. It's not anything I feel on my foot, but it hits hard enough to do some damage!
I'm about $700 into my boots now. Sounds silly, doughnut? Soles @ $40 a set, cobbler work at about $70...do that four times and it adds up! Maybe enough to pay attention to how you place your foot!!
Yeah...DO check it!! The problem Karl mentions is one known interference...although I thought that was with the 'old' style FRP piece. Karl: Your FRP kicker is NEW? From Fredette?
Re: 'I guess the advantage is that it would not smack your foot pegs.'
Not exactly.....
With a short kicker...your boot no longer sweeps below the footpeg. The FRP unit is just long enough to place the sole of your boot against the footpeg at the bottom of the stroke. If you tend to put anything other than your TOE on the kicker, you will likely tear up the sole of your boot.
I've been through something like 3-4 soles on my Tech8s for that very reason. Oddly enough (well, consider the source!) I just realized recently howcome my boots were going south so fast. It's not anything I feel on my foot, but it hits hard enough to do some damage!
I'm about $700 into my boots now. Sounds silly, doughnut? Soles @ $40 a set, cobbler work at about $70...do that four times and it adds up! Maybe enough to pay attention to how you place your foot!!
Last edited by canyncarvr on 12:14 pm Feb 12 2007, edited 1 time in total.
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My kicker is about 3 years old, and from Fredette. I believe there was a note in the installation instructions that instructed one to check for clearance, but I think I saw it mentioned here first.
I have also a worn hole in my boot. I thought it was from the brake lever, but perhaps from kicking. I sure brake a lot more than I kick!
I need a matching hole in my other boot; I like the way it lets the water OUT.
Back to WR450's question: the Fredette style kicker is better than stock, IMO. It fits better, starts the bike better, and your foot won't slip off as easy. The stock one goes bad pretty fast.
Mr. KDXER- for your KX100, right?
I have also a worn hole in my boot. I thought it was from the brake lever, but perhaps from kicking. I sure brake a lot more than I kick!
I need a matching hole in my other boot; I like the way it lets the water OUT.
Back to WR450's question: the Fredette style kicker is better than stock, IMO. It fits better, starts the bike better, and your foot won't slip off as easy. The stock one goes bad pretty fast.
Mr. KDXER- for your KX100, right?
'08 KTM200xc
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
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Thanks Guys!!! I ordered one last night. I definately will check the clearance once its on. Also, check my soles. Just got Sidi Crosfire boots to replace by old Tech 4s. I know this is off subject but highly recommend the Crossfire boots.
Steve
Steve
WR sold. Now have 03 and 04 KDX 220s.
KXF 250 forks. RB Carb and Head. FMF rev pipe. Long live the KDX !!!
KXF 250 forks. RB Carb and Head. FMF rev pipe. Long live the KDX !!!
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I've heard several reports of spontaneous combustion when Crossfire boots are put to FRP rare metal kickers.
I read it on 'straightdoper.com'!! (bottom of the page)
I read it on 'straightdoper.com'!! (bottom of the page)
Last edited by canyncarvr on 01:53 pm Feb 13 2007, edited 2 times in total.
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What u been smokin CC??? Clove cigarettes?canyncarvr wrote:I've heard several reports of spontaneous combustion when Crossfire boots are put to FRP rare metal kickers.
I read it on 'straightdoper.com'!!
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I forgot this part....
I got a knew nuckle with my knew FRP kicker.
I did use o-rings. ...kind'a.
There is NO way the OEM o-rings are going on with that combo.
My o-rings had to be considerably trimmed..and still the two had to be pressed together.
No. I didn't take it apart to see what happened to the rings during assy. I would'a just had to put it back together agin...and then wonder what happened to 'em THAT time........
I got a knew nuckle with my knew FRP kicker.
I did use o-rings. ...kind'a.
There is NO way the OEM o-rings are going on with that combo.
My o-rings had to be considerably trimmed..and still the two had to be pressed together.
No. I didn't take it apart to see what happened to the rings during assy. I would'a just had to put it back together agin...and then wonder what happened to 'em THAT time........
Consider the source
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