Hello all, I have a Scotts stabilizer mounted above my upper triple clamp. (Typical setup for KX125 front end; stabilizer mounts to clamp, and the clamp also serves as the upper handlebar clamp.)
I'd like to add bar risers to my bike but I'm concerned that as the handlebars move up, the stabilizer will move up too, and the stabilizer link arm won't slide down over the stabilizer pin (that mounts to the frame).
I'm not in front of my bike so I'm working off of memory, but it seems that bar risers won't work with this type of stabilizer setup. Has anyone else had this problem? Will I have to pay more money to Scotts for a different mounting option??
Bar risers cause problems for steering stabilizer?
- wanaride
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Bar risers cause problems for steering stabilizer?
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- Indawoods
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The further from the mount... the weaker it will become. There are limits.
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****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- canyncarvr
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I have yet to see a top mount Scotts damper that won't tweak the pin when the bars are slammed.
Mount it low!
..then tell me all the parts, extensions and spacers you used so I can do it, too.
Mount it low!
..then tell me all the parts, extensions and spacers you used so I can do it, too.
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- wanaride
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Okay, so I'm not crazy for asking this. A taller pin could work, but when I was looking at my bike a few minutes ago I too was worried about getting the pin TOO tall.
I sent an email to Scotts today about this. If they don't answer, I'll call and ask for options.
I checked for their SUB mounting kit and only Kawasaki's new 4-stroke bikes are listed.
And to think, once upon a time I thought the fender mounting technique was a bad plan. Sheesh...
I sent an email to Scotts today about this. If they don't answer, I'll call and ask for options.
I checked for their SUB mounting kit and only Kawasaki's new 4-stroke bikes are listed.
And to think, once upon a time I thought the fender mounting technique was a bad plan. Sheesh...
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- canyncarvr
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Silly boy!
You don't ASK them if they have something to fit....you MAKE something to fit!!!!!
(well...not me...which is why I'm looking forward to the particulars!)
You don't ASK them if they have something to fit....you MAKE something to fit!!!!!
(well...not me...which is why I'm looking forward to the particulars!)
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- skipro3
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I did what you are talking about. In order to make it all stiff enough, I got a frame bracket and welded it to the frame. Don't use a clamp-on bracket, they just will tweak out no matter how tight you clamp to the frame. To make a taller pin, I started by finding a long drill bit that fit the bracket. Then I cut it to length, and ground down flat sides to just fit the damper. It worked and was solid. But I wanted it even more solid, so I got a metal tube same size as that in the bracket and welded it on with little wings on the side for more strength. I used the drill bit to keep the tubes lined up right. It wasn't going anywhere! Just a longer shaft, like my drill bit shaft, would have been enough, but I had a torch. And when you have a man with a torch, suddenly everything needs to be welded. Ha!!
Also, before using the drill bit shank, I used a screw driver shank. It was just as strong, but wasn't as tight fitting as I would like in the bracket. Look around your garage. There's something there to stiffen it up and allow you to run the damper on the top clamp mount.
Main reason to run the damper on the top clamp mount is to have the adjustment handy. I adjusted mine as much as 10 or 12 times in a single ride. Hit sand wash, adjust. Hit a rut hill climb, adjust. Hit a technical tight trail, adjust. Hey, I bet I adjusted that thing more than CC adjusts his AS for the SSS. HaW!!!
Also, before using the drill bit shank, I used a screw driver shank. It was just as strong, but wasn't as tight fitting as I would like in the bracket. Look around your garage. There's something there to stiffen it up and allow you to run the damper on the top clamp mount.
Main reason to run the damper on the top clamp mount is to have the adjustment handy. I adjusted mine as much as 10 or 12 times in a single ride. Hit sand wash, adjust. Hit a rut hill climb, adjust. Hit a technical tight trail, adjust. Hey, I bet I adjusted that thing more than CC adjusts his AS for the SSS. HaW!!!
Jerry
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I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
- wanaride
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I just called Scotts and verified my/our suspicion; bar risers are a bad idea with a Scotts on a KDX/KX. Taller handlebars are the only official option (note Ski's solution above).
"James" at Scotts felt strongly that "mini" bars only belong on a mini-bike (his words, not mine) and he suggested I try a Renthal Carmichael High bend for more room.
James also suggested that newer bikes have more mounting options for a Scotts. He wasn't being rude or anything; to the contrary, he was very helpful. He was just explaining why, say, a CRF450 has lots of mounting options whereas a KDX doesn't.
"James" at Scotts felt strongly that "mini" bars only belong on a mini-bike (his words, not mine) and he suggested I try a Renthal Carmichael High bend for more room.
James also suggested that newer bikes have more mounting options for a Scotts. He wasn't being rude or anything; to the contrary, he was very helpful. He was just explaining why, say, a CRF450 has lots of mounting options whereas a KDX doesn't.
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