Setting Shock Action
- Indawoods
- Creator and Founder
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Setting Shock Action
Race sag:
This is the most important of the suspension settings. After you have spent some time and gotten the other circuits dialed in, you can try some different sag measurements to create a distinct feel and weight bias. As a general rule you should use about one third of your available travel as sag.
Free sag:
This measurement is taken to determine if you have the proper spring rate for your weight. Observe the characteristics of the motorcycle under its own weight. If the bike tops out or has less than 3/4 of an inch of sag then the spring is too soft! If the bike sags drastically under it's own weight, then it has too stiff a spring rate.
Now that you have got your spring set, you can get to the fun part: Riding your bike!
Setting the rebound:
1.) Find a relatively fast trail with braking bumps, rocks and roots leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce (Turn clicker out) the rebound damping until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Finally, increase (Turn clicker in) the rebound damping until the sensation goes away.
2.) Find a log or ledge that tends to bounce the motorcycle after hitting it. If the rear end bounces up uncontrollably, add rebound. (Turn clicker in)
3.) Find some large whoops. The motorcycle should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheel extending to the ground before the next impact. If it does not perform as described, as above, it is packing and the rebound dampening should be reduced! (Turn clicker out) (Please note the guide for sand set-up, as these rules don't apply for sand.)
4.) Find a corner with acceleration bumps, rocks, and roots on the exit. The rear of the motorcycle should follow the ground. If the rear end "breaks up", reduce the rebound. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the compression two clicks.) (Turn clicker out)
Setting the compression:
1.) Find some rough sections, a large jump and a couple of "G-Outs". The shock should bottom on the roughest section but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to fight bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid going to far as the suspension's ability to react to small variations of surface and rocks will be sacrificed in the trade. Remember the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so even a large change in setting may only effect bottoming resistance slightly. Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming load obstacle on the trail. If you don't you're not getting maximum plushness from your suspension. Run your suspension as soft as you can get away with but remember that if the trail has sand sections or lots of g-loads this will work against you.
This information was taken from:
http://www.mx-tech.com/tuning_offroad.asp
This is the most important of the suspension settings. After you have spent some time and gotten the other circuits dialed in, you can try some different sag measurements to create a distinct feel and weight bias. As a general rule you should use about one third of your available travel as sag.
Free sag:
This measurement is taken to determine if you have the proper spring rate for your weight. Observe the characteristics of the motorcycle under its own weight. If the bike tops out or has less than 3/4 of an inch of sag then the spring is too soft! If the bike sags drastically under it's own weight, then it has too stiff a spring rate.
Now that you have got your spring set, you can get to the fun part: Riding your bike!
Setting the rebound:
1.) Find a relatively fast trail with braking bumps, rocks and roots leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce (Turn clicker out) the rebound damping until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Finally, increase (Turn clicker in) the rebound damping until the sensation goes away.
2.) Find a log or ledge that tends to bounce the motorcycle after hitting it. If the rear end bounces up uncontrollably, add rebound. (Turn clicker in)
3.) Find some large whoops. The motorcycle should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheel extending to the ground before the next impact. If it does not perform as described, as above, it is packing and the rebound dampening should be reduced! (Turn clicker out) (Please note the guide for sand set-up, as these rules don't apply for sand.)
4.) Find a corner with acceleration bumps, rocks, and roots on the exit. The rear of the motorcycle should follow the ground. If the rear end "breaks up", reduce the rebound. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the compression two clicks.) (Turn clicker out)
Setting the compression:
1.) Find some rough sections, a large jump and a couple of "G-Outs". The shock should bottom on the roughest section but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to fight bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid going to far as the suspension's ability to react to small variations of surface and rocks will be sacrificed in the trade. Remember the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so even a large change in setting may only effect bottoming resistance slightly. Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming load obstacle on the trail. If you don't you're not getting maximum plushness from your suspension. Run your suspension as soft as you can get away with but remember that if the trail has sand sections or lots of g-loads this will work against you.
This information was taken from:
http://www.mx-tech.com/tuning_offroad.asp
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- Indawoods
- Creator and Founder
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- Joined: 09:59 am Jun 12 2003
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- Location: Midwest
Team Green Sag Settings
![Image](http://kdxrider.net/images/sag1.jpg)
![Image](http://kdxrider.net/images/sag2.jpg)
![Image](http://kdxrider.net/images/sag1.jpg)
![Image](http://kdxrider.net/images/sag2.jpg)
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- two-stroke-brit
- Supporting Member I
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- Joined: 05:40 pm Jul 30 2016
- Country: USA
- Location: HOUSTON TEXAS
Setting Shock Action
2000 H6 KDX200 .
i have been trying to set the race sag,
i way 170LBs and even with the adjustment all the way out i still cant get more than 2 1/4"
but more frustrating is it didn't change from when it was set in the middle.
![Image](http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu235/Markd_44/KDX200/IMG_3834.jpg)
even with my daughter that weighs 210LBS I only see 3" or 75mm.
i am fairly sure it is the original shock and spring.
although no way of knowing as multiple owners
The weird thing is the travel seems to vary with no rhyme or reason.
any help or advise would be appreciated.
T I A Mark
i have been trying to set the race sag,
i way 170LBs and even with the adjustment all the way out i still cant get more than 2 1/4"
but more frustrating is it didn't change from when it was set in the middle.
![Image](http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu235/Markd_44/KDX200/IMG_3834.jpg)
even with my daughter that weighs 210LBS I only see 3" or 75mm.
i am fairly sure it is the original shock and spring.
although no way of knowing as multiple owners
The weird thing is the travel seems to vary with no rhyme or reason.
any help or advise would be appreciated.
T I A Mark
She might not be pretty but always a fun ride !
- KDXGarage
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Re: Setting Shock Action
Are you using a starting measurement of the rear wheel of the ground? No way that it would be just the inches with that little of preload on the spring. Any chance the linkage bearings are locked up??
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- two-stroke-brit
- Supporting Member I
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Setting Shock Action
it is possible the linkages are stiff if not locked up.(that would explain the weird measurements )
and i am starting as the above tutorial shows with the wheel on the ground.
i am considering sending it out to get it serviced and correct spring rate for my weight.
its probably never had a service .
thanks mark
and i am starting as the above tutorial shows with the wheel on the ground.
i am considering sending it out to get it serviced and correct spring rate for my weight.
its probably never had a service .
thanks mark
She might not be pretty but always a fun ride !
- bufftester
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Re: Setting Shock Action
Definitely would spring it for your weight and service it, but Jason brings up a good point. The Uni Trak is the most neglected part of this (and really all) bike. Thoroughly inspect the linkage bearings/seals and swingarm bearings/seals.
- KDXGarage
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Re: Setting Shock Action
The stock spring IS correct for your weight.
The initial measurement is with the bike on a work stand. Put on full gear and measure again while seated and fueled up. Should be about 100 mm.
The initial measurement is with the bike on a work stand. Put on full gear and measure again while seated and fueled up. Should be about 100 mm.
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- bufftester
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Setting Shock Action
two-stroke-brit...i am starting as the above tutorial shows with the wheel on the ground.
Jason...The initial measurement is with the bike on a work stand. Put on full gear and measure again while seated and fueled up. Should be about 100 mm.
As Jason noted, the unloaded weight should be wheel OFF the ground, suspension fully extended. The stock rear spring is good for your weight (though the fork springs are not).
Jason...The initial measurement is with the bike on a work stand. Put on full gear and measure again while seated and fueled up. Should be about 100 mm.
As Jason noted, the unloaded weight should be wheel OFF the ground, suspension fully extended. The stock rear spring is good for your weight (though the fork springs are not).
- two-stroke-brit
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Re: Setting Shock Action
ah ha i see my mistake ,thanks buffy.
sunday i will check again and report back.
what a rookie mistake.
thanks mark
![Super :supz:](./images/smilies/icon_super.gif)
sunday i will check again and report back.
what a rookie mistake.
thanks mark
She might not be pretty but always a fun ride !
- two-stroke-brit
- Supporting Member I
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Setting Shock Action
yep that was it 4.0" if race sag.
and i use the term"race" very losely
cool and i dropped the the forks 1/2" as well .
i made some longer bones to drop the seat height but too long.
will split the diff and make a fresh set.
cheers mark
and i use the term"race" very losely
![Laugh :lol:](./images/smilies/b_grind1.gif)
cool and i dropped the the forks 1/2" as well .
i made some longer bones to drop the seat height but too long.
will split the diff and make a fresh set.
cheers mark
She might not be pretty but always a fun ride !
- KDXGarage
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Re: Setting Shock Action
If you do not have stock links, then who knows what your sag may be??
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- two-stroke-brit
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Re: Setting Shock Action
all the adjustments were done with the stock links in place.Jason wrote:If you do not have stock links, then who knows what your sag may be??
i was planning to drop the seat height after.
thanks mark
She might not be pretty but always a fun ride !
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Re: Setting Shock Action
Ok, good.
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