top end rebuild - what parts need to be replaced

[bws2]

I'm working on a top end rebuild on my 2001 KDX200.

Aside from replacing the piston, rings, head and base gaskets, what other parts should I replace?

Should I replace the piston pin, bearing, o-rings on KIPS parts, other gaskets, or any ones?

Thanks for your help.

[KDXGarage]

Replace the piston pin and small end bearing

[G22inSC]

Wrist pin and wrist pin bearing as well. Circlips on piston. Never reuse the old circlips.

Sorry. Looks like we posted at the same time.

[bws2]

Thank you Jason and G22. Is it okay to use Wiseco bearing and pin or should I use OEM from Kawasaki?

[KDXGarage]

Yes, ALWAYS replace the circlips. Good catch.

If you have a Wiseco piston, use Wiseco rings, pin, clips, bearing.

[bufftester]

Piston, rings, pin, circlips, small end bearing, base and head gaskets. While it's off you should evaluate the KIPS and repair/replace as needed. And a new set of exhaust O-rings and gasket while it's all apart and clean.

[bws2]

Piston, rings, pin, circlips, small end bearing, base and head gaskets. While it's off you should evaluate the KIPS and repair/replace as needed. And a new set of exhaust O-rings and gasket while it's all apart and clean.

Thank you Bufftester.

I have an FMF Gnarly pipe, but all I see are two o-rings, no gasket. Does the gasket apply to a stock pipe,
or should my pipe have one too?

[doctord23]

There is a copper crush gasket that goes in the opening before the pipe.
You may need to remove the old one if it had one.
Thegasket is important since the pipe has a lot of vibration and can damage the head if there isn't a wearable surface installed.

[babo89]

i know this is an old topic, and ive asked some questions in own post but came across this thread and thought id see if i could get any assistance.. i have a 1997 220. could someone please put together a list of everything i need to order or a link to a kit that contains everything? i have a manual but a lot of the parts i find on google all say 98-05 220 and im just not sure if it's because of the year they came out or if there is actual difference in any if these parts. my bike is completely stock with less than 20 original hours. i just dont have a lot of room to work on things so i dont want to tear it apart and then order and then start and then have to order something else . would really appreciate any help i feel overwhelmed with all the info im finding online so if someone could just point me in the direction of a link or at least a list of things for my bikke specifically or ehich parts will be interchangeable will be greatly appreciated

[KDXGarage]

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawas ... -kdx220-a4

Look through OEM info instead of google

What are you trying to do that would be different than the original poster?

[Chuck78]

I have a 1997 220.
I have a manual, but a lot of the parts I find on google all say 98-05 220 and im just not sure if it's because of the year they came out or if there is actual difference in any if these parts.

You will VERY often find that aftermarket parts suppliers will have incorrect interchange info on their websites regarding models, years, etc.

All North American market 1995+ KDX models, 1995-2006 KDX200H & 1997-2005 KDX220R, basically share almost all identical components.
Internationally the SR models which were street legal dual sports, are based on the same platform but have a lot of differences in their tune, electrics, gas tank, shrouds, etc.

The primary differences between the models are found in the carburetor size (PWK35 on 200 vs PWK33 on the 220), cylinder porting and bore size + corresponding cylinder head diameter with all the above tuning characteristics on the 220 being catered more towards low RPM torque and a milder power delivery for maximum traction & tractability versus more focused on high RPM peak output on the 200.

The 220 also came with a wider chain guide to accommodate the o-ring chain that was stock, whereas the 200 did not come with an o-ring chain stock and had a narrower chain guide.

There are other subtle differences such as I believe the power valve subport bushings on a 220 for some reason are a different height than those on the 200, but neither James nor myself could figure out why they would have a change in these and did not see that it would make any performance difference. 1995 - 1996 had a lighter clutch spring versus 1997 all models 200 and 220 had that replaced with a slightly firmer clutch spring set.
The last few years in the 2000s came with silver frames instead of green. graphics of course changed frequently, 1996 and 1997 had purple tanks and or seat as well (96-only on purple radiator shrouds), etc...
Generally all parts not mentioned here are compatible between the two models if not absolutely identical. Most of which are absolutely identical aside from what we mentioned.

The one big consideration on the 220, is that the pistons were made by ART Pistons, a different manufacturer to my knowledge generally only specialize in four-stroke pistons and do a fine job at that, but unfortunately, the OEM 220 pistons are a poor design with more sharp edges, thin casting areas, and larger reliefs cut into them, which leads to them self-destructing at random, sometimes when almost brand new on a fresh cylinder, sometimes 20 years down the line. They are a ticking time bomb however, and should never be trusted... ALWAYS run an aftermarket forged piston from Wossner or Wiseco. I prefer Wossner due to them coming with coated skirts to further improve the lifespan of both the piston and the cylinder plating.

There was one anomaly reported that was not necessarily confirmed, but someone was saying elsewhere that they had a 69mm 220 piston that was OEM but was not made by ART, and in fact was made by the other manufacturer whose name I forgot that made the 1986 - 2006 KDX200 OEM Kawasaki piston... Unfortunately one other enthusiast recently ordered a new OEM 220 piston only to find that it still was the faulty design ART piston, and that Kawasaki still did not make up for the flawed design by having the manufacturer of the 200 pistons make the 220 pistons now, unless of course it was remaining old stock from somewhere.

Wossner makes a 69.00mm bore A size, 69.01mm B size, and 69.02mm C size (although they may be out of stock of one of those right now last I checked), and at one point in the last year I looked up Wiseco and saw that they only offered on their website 1.0mm oversized to fit a 70.00mm bore, no A/B/C variations. The A/B/C sizes are really nice to have available to compensate for cylinder plating wear as well as very slight machining variances from cylinder to cylinder. Running the Wiseco work fine but your piston to wall clearances maybe slightly looser than what is the absolute most ideal. I believe Wiseco may offer the a b and c sizes for the 200's 66.00 mm pistons, but I'm not even certain, you'll need to check both manufacturer's websites to verify either.

ONE VERY CRITICAL STEP:

If you have never disassembled a KDX top end before, the power valve governor actuator rod that connects from the clutch case up to the top side of the cylinder jug, the nut on the top is left hand thread, and also the shaft must be held with a backup wrench on the wrench flats just below the nut, otherwise you will put a strain on the pin at the other end that goes into the power valve governor / timer, which could shear the pin off immediately, or could weaken it to where it will fail and fall into the crankcase later after the engine is reassembled, which can then get sucked up in between any number of gears in your transmission or clutch area and obliterate hard to find or expensive parts.
Always heed this warning about the left hand threads and using a backup wrench. Check the pin on the other end when it is disassembled as well. You have to pull the whole clutch case, the housing not just the clutch cover, on the side of the crankcase, in order to inspect this as well as in order to disassemble the water pump to inspect the shaft for grooving or replace the water pump seals. When the water pump seals fail or the shaft gets grooved, you will have a little bit of coolant mixing into your gearbox oil resulting in a milky appearance in your sight glass a lot faster than what clutch particles would discolor/cloud the gearbox oil with.

[babo89]

very informative well written response , greatly appreciated Chuck