Clutch issue
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Clutch issue
Hey guys, I am having an issue with my clutch. Over the winter I totally rebuilt the motor. Finally got to take it out for a spin and when I pull in the clutch and put it into first it stalls. I have tried all the adjustments on the clutch and it still stalls. It worked fine before the rebuild so I do not think it is the cable. I did change from 10-30 to ATF-F for the clutch, could that be the issue? I am thinking of taking the clutch apart and recoating the plates in ATF-F. I am at a loss here.
- 6 Riders
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Re: Clutch issue
Can you push the bike when it's in gear and the clutch pulled in?
newbbewb wrote:^what he said.
*side note...I'm drunk, so try to read what I'm trying to say, instead of what I actually typemasterblaster wrote:Man 6 riders you rock.
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Re: Clutch issue
No6 Riders wrote:Can you push the bike when it's in gear and the clutch pulled in?
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Clutch issue
If it's been sitting awhile the plates could be stuck to the discs so it won't disengage. Assuming everything is put together correctly what I do is, start the bike in neutral roll the bike and jump on, put it in gear ride around a bit with the clutch pulled in while revving the motor. It should break loose if every thing else is right. It's common for clutches to stick after sitting for a while good luck.
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Clutch issue
Going to try that, the bike has been sitting since September of last year. I took it for a quick spin down the street, dragged the rear brake, but it didn't free up. My Beta Rev3 will do this until the trans oil warms up; then it's fine. I took the clutch apart this afternoon and rechecked my assembly, it was installed correctly, and I also rechecked the specs on the plates and frictions and they were in spec. Just wondering though, one plate was different, it had spiral grooves on it as opposed to the straight grooves of all the others. Does that plate go in first or last?
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Clutch issue
OK KDXers, here is where I'm at. I took the clutch totally apart and reassemled it. Here is my assembly order; washer, bushing, clutch basket, washer, inner clutch hub(Kawasaki calls it wheel-clutch), friction plate, steel plate until I end at the one different friction plate, clutch hub, springs, spring holder, 5 bolts, bolt for basket and inner hub, the pusher, and finally the push rod. Also as I was putting it together I put some AFT-F on the frictions and plates just to be sure. Still no clutch.
I put on an OEM clutch cable today, and all of my adjusters are all the way extended(the old cable was the same way). The clutch arm is pointing at the bolt just to the left of it and when I pull in the lever, the arm is pointing at the cylinder. I looked at some pictures on here and it seems like the clutch should be engaged by the time it points at the bolt.
Now, I know some KDX's have washers added in under the push rod, mind never did(it might have at one time, but didn't when I got it). I also rebuilt the motor over the winter. I am wondering if when I split the cases if the shaft has moved slightly inside the cases and not giving enough "push" from the rod and therefore needs to be shimmed with the washers.
Sorry for the long post, but I want to give you guys the most information to help with a diagnosis.
I put on an OEM clutch cable today, and all of my adjusters are all the way extended(the old cable was the same way). The clutch arm is pointing at the bolt just to the left of it and when I pull in the lever, the arm is pointing at the cylinder. I looked at some pictures on here and it seems like the clutch should be engaged by the time it points at the bolt.
Now, I know some KDX's have washers added in under the push rod, mind never did(it might have at one time, but didn't when I got it). I also rebuilt the motor over the winter. I am wondering if when I split the cases if the shaft has moved slightly inside the cases and not giving enough "push" from the rod and therefore needs to be shimmed with the washers.
Sorry for the long post, but I want to give you guys the most information to help with a diagnosis.
- bufftester
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Re: Clutch issue
5 bolts on your clutch spring holder? Should only be four. With a new OEM cable your adjusters should be all the way in. Also there should be a spring and spring seat installed on the clutch hub. Check your installation against the drawing and you should be able to find the problem. http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-p ... 200/clutch.
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Re: Clutch issue
E series have 5 bolts
newbbewb wrote:^what he said.
*side note...I'm drunk, so try to read what I'm trying to say, instead of what I actually typemasterblaster wrote:Man 6 riders you rock.
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Re: Clutch issue
could you take a picture of your clutch arm, the one down on the case?Dekon wrote:OK KDXers, here is where I'm at. I took the clutch totally apart and reassemled it. Here is my assembly order; washer, bushing, clutch basket, washer, inner clutch hub(Kawasaki calls it wheel-clutch), friction plate, steel plate until I end at the one different friction plate, clutch hub, springs, spring holder, 5 bolts, bolt for basket and inner hub, the pusher, and finally the push rod. Also as I was putting it together I put some AFT-F on the frictions and plates just to be sure. Still no clutch.
I put on an OEM clutch cable today, and all of my adjusters are all the way extended(the old cable was the same way). The clutch arm is pointing at the bolt just to the left of it and when I pull in the lever, the arm is pointing at the cylinder. I looked at some pictures on here and it seems like the clutch should be engaged by the time it points at the bolt.
Now, I know some KDX's have washers added in under the push rod, mind never did(it might have at one time, but didn't when I got it). I also rebuilt the motor over the winter. I am wondering if when I split the cases if the shaft has moved slightly inside the cases and not giving enough "push" from the rod and therefore needs to be shimmed with the washers.
Sorry for the long post, but I want to give you guys the most information to help with a diagnosis.
you may just have it routed wrong on the case attachment.
I doubt you screwed up the clutch pack... if you can split cases, you can slap a clutch pack in. :)
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Re: Clutch issue
Oops, forgot to mention the jutter spring and seat in my assembly order. I have checked my installation with both the manual and the clutch parts diagram, that is what has me totally confused. It worked fine before I rebuilt the motor.bufftester wrote:5 bolts on your clutch spring holder? Should only be four. With a new OEM cable your adjusters should be all the way in. Also there should be a spring and spring seat installed on the clutch hub. Check your installation against the drawing and you should be able to find the problem. http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-p ... 200/clutch.
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Re: Clutch issue
I'll get a picture up tomorrow.ohgood wrote:could you take a picture of your clutch arm, the one down on the case?Dekon wrote:OK KDXers, here is where I'm at. I took the clutch totally apart and reassemled it. Here is my assembly order; washer, bushing, clutch basket, washer, inner clutch hub(Kawasaki calls it wheel-clutch), friction plate, steel plate until I end at the one different friction plate, clutch hub, springs, spring holder, 5 bolts, bolt for basket and inner hub, the pusher, and finally the push rod. Also as I was putting it together I put some AFT-F on the frictions and plates just to be sure. Still no clutch.
I put on an OEM clutch cable today, and all of my adjusters are all the way extended(the old cable was the same way). The clutch arm is pointing at the bolt just to the left of it and when I pull in the lever, the arm is pointing at the cylinder. I looked at some pictures on here and it seems like the clutch should be engaged by the time it points at the bolt.
Now, I know some KDX's have washers added in under the push rod, mind never did(it might have at one time, but didn't when I got it). I also rebuilt the motor over the winter. I am wondering if when I split the cases if the shaft has moved slightly inside the cases and not giving enough "push" from the rod and therefore needs to be shimmed with the washers.
Sorry for the long post, but I want to give you guys the most information to help with a diagnosis.
you may just have it routed wrong on the case attachment.
I doubt you screwed up the clutch pack... if you can split cases, you can slap a clutch pack in. :)
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Clutch issue
OK, figured it out, bonehead move by me. When I assembled the clutch(and reassembled it), I didn't have the notches lined up on the inner and outer clutch hub. Can't believe I did this twice. BTW, is Kawasaki the only one who uses this weird clutch design? Every other bike I have ever owned has the outer hub move out away from the basket.
- Tedh98
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Clutch issue
Not so much Kawasaki, the KDX has this design. Not sure what other bikes may have this type, but it is definitely not the norm.Dekon wrote: BTW, is Kawasaki the only one who uses this weird clutch design? Every other bike I have ever owned has the outer hub move out away from the basket.