Lowering link possibilities?
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Lowering link possibilities?
Has any one put a lowering link one the rear shock, and then crank down on the spring to compress it to make it a little higher but stiffer? I'm about 225 lb, but seems like the stock shock is way to soft. Just looking for a cheaper easier way? Any suggestions!!
- bufftester
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
A lowering link drops the rear end and sacrifices some travel to do it. Cranking down the spring will screw up your sag adjustments and negatively impact the rear ends ability to do its job. At 225 the stock spring is too light for you. The front end is even worse for us big guys, the stock springs are good for riders in the 150 lb range. To get the most out of the suspension, front and rear, it needs to be properly sprung for your weight, and there is no cheaper, easier way (except for losing 40 pounds, but then the front and rear are still unbalanced.)
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
Are you wanting to lower the bike? Is the bike stock at this point?Has any one put a lowering link one the rear shock, and then crank down on the spring to compress it to make it a little higher but stiffer? I'm about 225 lb, but seems like the stock shock is way to soft. Just looking for a cheaper easier way? Any suggestions!!
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
Thanks for the replies, yes the bike is stock and the sag is set for my height 5' 11". It's a 2004 220, only mod I did so far was put bar risers. Really want to do the fork conversion, as for the shock I could run it on the stiffer side!
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
Your height has nothing to do with the sag. How do you have the sag set up?
- bufftester
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
At 5'11" you don't need a lowering link. At 225 you do need to spring the front and rear end properly. Just stiffening it by compressing the adjustment rings is going to reduce your available travel a bit AND make what travel you have harsher, but still too soft for your weight.
- bcdonyo
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
Lowering links make the shock softer and less progressive. Kouba-link says they don't reduce travel but I don't see how that is possible.
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
Can you post a pic of this bike? Is there maybe something wrong with the shock? Does the rear end seem to sit too low? Is the bike new to you? What kind of riding are you planning to use it for? What is your skill level?Has any one put a lowering link one the rear shock, and then crank down on the spring to compress it to make it a little higher but stiffer? I'm about 225 lb, but seems like the stock shock is way to soft. Just looking for a cheaper easier way? Any suggestions!!
If the shock is in good shape, is serviced properly, and has not been modified (such as shortened internally) then you should be able to have a helluva good time on it with just some basic adjustment even though it is a bit undersprung for your weight. The forks need to be in good shape and properly serviced as well. If there is something wrong with the shock that will need to be corrected. Before you modify any bike you need to get it in excellent mechanical condition and properly set up. Otherwise, how would you know what you would like to change and whether or not those changes are an improvement?
There's a lot of knowledge available here but you've got to give us some more info. From what you've told us so far it sounds like something is wrong with your shock. Is it bottoming easily? Does it have any dampening or is it just a spring? We need the poop so we can get to the bottom of this.
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
nothings wrong with the suspension other than I adjusted and played with the compression and rebound on the shock but still doesn't feel right. It's awesome for trail and woods riding but I also I like to hit the jumps too. I also had a couple times trail riding where to front end seems spongee and super soft. Went over the bars a couple of times when I hit the front brakes. Other than shitty suspension, the 220 runs cherry. I am more of an experienced rider, been riding for more than 25+ years. I've been riding honda's all my life, this is the first none honda that i've owned. I brought it cause I wanted something go hunting on. It's quiet, has a kick stand, and it's like riding a horse. This thing will crawl through anything. My previous CR250 was a trail killer, but it was a little to much power for the tight trails. Wanted a more mild riding machine which the 220 is. Why don't these bikes come with the KX suspension fully adjustable kayaba's? It's like riding a car down a bumpy road, it's smooth up to a curtain speed than you get on the gas and it start's to bottom out. Bottom line is I do know how to mess with the suspension, but this thing only has limited adjustment's. Thanks
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
You're just way undersprung. Order a set of springs for your weight, put some fresh oil in the forks, and set the race sag and you'll be much happier on the trail. As for the jumps, your KDX is pretty capable of the sort of air you get in typical off road situations but it is not intended to be a MX bike. If you set it up for that it won't work well on the trails or on the track. It was never intended to be a KX. It was intended to be a fantastic trail bike and they hit the mark nicely.
I'm with you on the Honda thing. I have an XR and it is a great bike and I love Hondas. However, Honda never made a bike like the KDX. The only two stroke enduro bike they offered was the CRE and you'll have better luck finding a unicorn than a CRE. Maybe you should get the KDX dialed in for the trails and buy yourself a CR for when you need to jump. That's the problem with motorcycles, sooner or later you end up with a garage full of them. If I had to choose just one and that was all I could have, it would be an XR or a KDX and a MX bike wouldn't even enter my mind.
For tips on what springs to use, Jeff Fredette has some good info on setting up the bike and he also does custom valving:
http://www.frpoffroad.com/aboutus.htm
Here's another article that may give you some ideas on how to set it up.
http://www.dirtrider.net/justkdx/projectbike/cdkdx.html
I'm with you on the Honda thing. I have an XR and it is a great bike and I love Hondas. However, Honda never made a bike like the KDX. The only two stroke enduro bike they offered was the CRE and you'll have better luck finding a unicorn than a CRE. Maybe you should get the KDX dialed in for the trails and buy yourself a CR for when you need to jump. That's the problem with motorcycles, sooner or later you end up with a garage full of them. If I had to choose just one and that was all I could have, it would be an XR or a KDX and a MX bike wouldn't even enter my mind.
For tips on what springs to use, Jeff Fredette has some good info on setting up the bike and he also does custom valving:
http://www.frpoffroad.com/aboutus.htm
Here's another article that may give you some ideas on how to set it up.
http://www.dirtrider.net/justkdx/projectbike/cdkdx.html
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
They actually increase suspension travel -- which can potentially be a problem because, if you increase the travel too much (while lowering the bike), the tire can start running into the rear subframe well before the shock bottoms out.bcdonyo wrote:Lowering links make the shock softer and less progressive. Kouba-link says they don't reduce travel but I don't see how that is possible.
- bcdonyo
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
I think we agree. Travel is the span the axle travels between full compression (bottomed) and being topped out. If the link lowers the bike by an inch(topped out), the only way the travel could be increased is if it bottomed out at more than an inch higher into the chassis. Since the subframe and fender interfere I say the travel is reduced unless you want to run a tire that is over 2 inches shorter or clearance the frame and plastic by more than an inch.sarrant wrote:They actually increase suspension travel -- which can potentially be a problem because, if you increase the travel too much (while lowering the bike), the tire can start running into the rear subframe well before the shock bottoms out.bcdonyo wrote:Lowering links make the shock softer and less progressive. Kouba-link says they don't reduce travel but I don't see how that is possible.
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
We do agree.bcdonyo wrote:I think we agree. Travel is the span the axle travels between full compression (bottomed) and being topped out. If the link lowers the bike by an inch(topped out), the only way the travel could be increased is if it bottomed out at more than an inch higher into the chassis. Since the subframe and fender interfere I say the travel is reduced unless you want to run a tire that is over 2 inches shorter or clearance the frame and plastic by more than an inch.sarrant wrote:They actually increase suspension travel -- which can potentially be a problem because, if you increase the travel too much (while lowering the bike), the tire can start running into the rear subframe well before the shock bottoms out.bcdonyo wrote:Lowering links make the shock softer and less progressive. Kouba-link says they don't reduce travel but I don't see how that is possible.
I am clarifying that the lowering link moves the suspension farther out in the leverage ratio, allowing more movement before the shock bumper is engaged, thus increasing potential wheel travel.
So the physical interference of some other bike component becomes the issue -- which may or may not be serious dependant on the bike and its setup.
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Re: Lowering link possibilities?
Thankx guys for the helpful replies. Yup decided to go with heavier springs for my weight. I think thats the best place to start. I'll try to post pictures of my rebuild. Mahalo!