cr 250 shock
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cr 250 shock
So my rear shock is leaking oil, and I dont feel like rebuilding it. I found this on the local craigslist
http://honolulu.craigslist.org/mau/mcy/2603204943.html
--05 cr250 rear shock..
Just wondering what people think, Im sure it will fit if i throw enough time and money at it.... but does anyone have any advice??
good deal on a shock though..
http://honolulu.craigslist.org/mau/mcy/2603204943.html
--05 cr250 rear shock..
Just wondering what people think, Im sure it will fit if i throw enough time and money at it.... but does anyone have any advice??
good deal on a shock though..
- scheckaet
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yeah, rebuild yours, it's not that complicated and a hell of a lot cheaper than 300 bux
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
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- SS109
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There is more to it than just buying a shock and bolting it on. First, it has to mechanically fit. The way the shock attaches, top and bottom, correct length, is there enough clearance for the air box, frame, etc. Then valving and springs rate will probably need to be changed. It could be worth it but you are dealing with a lot of unknown variables.
Now, in another thread, a member used an '02 RM125 Showa shock. It needed some spacers for the mounting points along with an internal spacer to reduce the shock's overall length.
Now, in another thread, a member used an '02 RM125 Showa shock. It needed some spacers for the mounting points along with an internal spacer to reduce the shock's overall length.
Last edited by SS109 on 11:50 pm Oct 12 2011, edited 1 time in total.
Youtube Channel: WildAzzRacing
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
- SS109
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While a lowering link works for lowering a bike it also changes the ratios by which the linkage works. That might do the trick paired with a non-factory shock or it might make the bike completely unsafe. I have no way of knowing off hand as there is a bit of measuring and mathematics involved.factoryX wrote:What about a lowering link?
Youtube Channel: WildAzzRacing
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
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And the KDX is safe stock how? I mean anything is an improvement over not knowing if you are going to make it out alive if you go over 30mph on the kdx. Either way I get it, but this only fuels the idea of completely converting the kdx from ancient 80's tech suspension without doing a hybrid build. I also want to say the stock shock isn't bad, it just isn't good either.
On a side note, would this be harder on linkage bearings? And what is the stock shock length?
- SS109
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Once a KDX has KX forks setup with proper springs and valving and the rear shock is sprung correctly and in good working order it is as safe as any newer bike. I have had my 200 at 55-60 mph with no problems.
As for your last two questions, depending on the leverage ratio, a lowering link with a longer shock could wear the bearing more. Again, it comes down to measurements and some calculations. Shock length, eye to eye, on my E series looks to roughly be around 17 3/8" or 446 mm.
As for your last two questions, depending on the leverage ratio, a lowering link with a longer shock could wear the bearing more. Again, it comes down to measurements and some calculations. Shock length, eye to eye, on my E series looks to roughly be around 17 3/8" or 446 mm.
Youtube Channel: WildAzzRacing
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
- frankenschwinn
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- Julien D
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Did some searching, and found someone that put a kx500 shock on a klx300. The klx looks to have identical linkage as the kdx, and the main issue with the swap was lowering links and the fact the ressie was on the wrong side(its on the correct side for the kdx). What I found weird was the that they had someone build a billet linkage piece, Anyone heard of Stroker suspension mods?
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad80 ... ure009.jpg
The stock shock isn't bad, but if you can upgrade it, why not?
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad80 ... ure009.jpg
The stock shock isn't bad, but if you can upgrade it, why not?
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I know I am not one of the long time members here, but I have been involved with Motorcyles all my life(1969). I agree with Juliend that the stock shock is very good,but I think if you have certain kind of terrain you can mprove with another. If it is just mostlly slow tech stuff and maybe smooth high speed stuff a revalved stock shock is more than adequate. If you you have some medium to higher speed rough sections there is no comparison to a properly set up kx or in my case showa. I have ridden all and can ride not just a little but much faster in these sections. i also have the kx front on my bike.If you are going to stick with the kdx front forks and have them revalved then i would also stick with the stock shock.
- marrk_us
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For woods riding they told me that the stock shock, revalved and resprung would work great so I had my suspension done locally. I've been told the same about the kdx shocks being good units it's just the cheap forks that need upgraded.
For enduro/woods
I've heard of Stroker. They started out when Larry Roeseler, racing for Kawasaki at the time wanted to race their new but underpowered Klx300 (actually 282cc). They marketed many extras for the klx, including big bore kits ranging from 330 to 365 cc. The suspension link in your picture was used to make a kx500 shock work with the lengthened kx500 forks on his bike. The main purpose was to get some ground clearance and added travel for western open terrain races and for the people who actually tried to motocross the little klx.factoryX wrote:Did some searching, and found someone that put a kx500 shock on a klx300. The klx looks to have identical linkage as the kdx, and the main issue with the swap was lowering links and the fact the ressie was on the wrong side(its on the correct side for the kdx). What I found weird was the that they had someone build a billet linkage piece, Anyone heard of Stroker suspension mods?
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad80 ... ure009.jpg
The stock shock isn't bad, but if you can upgrade it, why not?
For woods riding they told me that the stock shock, revalved and resprung would work great so I had my suspension done locally. I've been told the same about the kdx shocks being good units it's just the cheap forks that need upgraded.
For enduro/woods
- gsa102
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With all the unknowns to changing out the shock, it sounds like it is eaiser to build a hybrid. After all, you have several "books" on how to do it here. Nothing like that for a shock swap.
I tried putting a 95 RM shock on a 90 YZ, and the dimensions were totally wrong. It wouldnt even bolt up. So how do you know what to start with? Maybe an aftermarket shock company might have a chart as to what fits what?
I tried putting a 95 RM shock on a 90 YZ, and the dimensions were totally wrong. It wouldnt even bolt up. So how do you know what to start with? Maybe an aftermarket shock company might have a chart as to what fits what?
This is my rifle, this is my gun, the YZ to go fast, the KDX is for fun!
96 KDX 200, 09 YZ 250
96 KDX 200, 09 YZ 250
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I have done several shock conversions on bikes - dirt and street - and let me tell you, it is extremely rare that you find one that will fit with no modifications at all. Overall length, mounting styles (eye vs clevis), spring rate, reservoir position, and perhaps most importantly, shock travel, all have strong implications as to the application.
If you still want to proceed, start by doing your homework. Race Tech publishes many stock spring rates on their website. Measure the length, travel, and any other critical dimensions. Then spend some time looking at shocks on E-Bay and gather some data.
It is extremely helpful if you can find someone who has modified the same bike already, but be aware that their "engineering standards" may not be as high as yours.
If you still want to proceed, start by doing your homework. Race Tech publishes many stock spring rates on their website. Measure the length, travel, and any other critical dimensions. Then spend some time looking at shocks on E-Bay and gather some data.
It is extremely helpful if you can find someone who has modified the same bike already, but be aware that their "engineering standards" may not be as high as yours.
2004 Dual Sported KDX200
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)