1995 and Newer KDX Service Manual Owners, Please Read
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1995 and Newer KDX Service Manual Owners, Please Read
Hi. If anyone has a 1995 or newer service manual, can you please tell me what the part number is for the tool to hold the fork cartridge assembly still while loosening the base valve assembly (the bottom of the forks)? My 1995 manual says 57001-1245, but when I tried to order one from BikeBandit last week, they said it was discontinued.
Thank you.
Thank you.
- skipro3
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That is exactly what my 1995 KDX200 service manual says, too. My manual states that it covers the 1995 model year. It is part number 99924-1181-01. Does your manual have the same part number? If not, what part number is your manual?skipro3 wrote:Sorry Jason, my manual shows on page 1-16 lower right corner a drawing of a "Fork Cylinder Holder" P/N 57001-1245
Then again on page 11-4 at the bottom is a list of special tools that includes the same item and part #.
I'm useless
I have the Kawasaki 1988 KX125/KX250/KX500 manual, and the same special tool is listed in that service manual. I also have the Clymer KX manual for:
KX125/KX250 1982 - 1991, KX500 1983 - 1993
It shows the 57001-1245 special tool for the 1988 model year.
I just don't see how that tool could be discontinued unless they came out with a new and improved tool with a different part number.
Thanks for your help, skipro3. I really appreciate it.
- Indawoods
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Jason... Have you asked your local stealership?
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****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- skipro3
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Why? What in the world made you think they would know more than our combined effort? :-)
I am hoping someone with a current or close to current manual will report what their manual says.
A couple of years ago, I ordered a manual for my '87. The guy said it will be here in X amount of days. After time past, I called and the parts guy said it was discontinued. I think they don't know immediately if it is discontinued, because BikeBandit took my order for that tool, but after a couple of days, e-mailed me and said it was discontinued.
I am hoping someone with a current or close to current manual will report what their manual says.
A couple of years ago, I ordered a manual for my '87. The guy said it will be here in X amount of days. After time past, I called and the parts guy said it was discontinued. I think they don't know immediately if it is discontinued, because BikeBandit took my order for that tool, but after a couple of days, e-mailed me and said it was discontinued.
- Indawoods
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I will check with my stealership for ya.. or you could go to their website... http://www.worldofpowersports.com
KA57001-1245 HOLDER,FORK CYLINDER $11.54
Subtotal: $11.54
Sales Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $7.00
TOTAL: $18.54
KA57001-1245 HOLDER,FORK CYLINDER $11.54
Subtotal: $11.54
Sales Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $7.00
TOTAL: $18.54
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****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
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Thanks for looking. The two special tools mentioned in the 1987 KDX200 manual are real difficult for one person to use. It is really a two man job. The bolt needs to be tightened to 52 ft. - lbs. of torque while an upside down pyramid is placed inside a round hole, and one has to press down to keep it from spinning. The four sided part that touched the fork internals is avtually a 3/8" socket and the other tool is an approximately 18" long T handle with a 3/8" socket drive end on it.skipro3 wrote:yup, my manual has the same Part #. That explains why we have the same info anyway. From the looks of that drawing of the tool, it could be made out a length of all-thread. Maybe you could just make your own? Maybe when CC stumbles onto this he could help. I'm sure he's been down the same road.
I just got back from Lowe's. I bought some stuff to try to make a home made tool. I already have the forks bolted back together and tightened down to the correct torque, but I need something different for the next time. I bought an 18" length of pipe that is threaded on each end. I bought a threaded T adapter to put on the top and a approximately 32/33mm nut with machine threads that with a little coaxing, will be jammed / crossthreaded / whatever it takes onto the pipe thread end of the pipe. I am going to have to grind the 6 faces of the nut down to 30mm. I hope it will work.
I am still going to order the 57001-1245 from ronayers.com next week.
I would still like for someone with a newer manual to report what their manual says.
Thank you very much.
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Thanks, Indawoods. I think that site is just like BikeBandit, where they don't have 4,000,000 parts in stock. They just order it and hope for the best. I don't think any of these online places maintain the inventory. They are just like a dealer. They may have a few things in stock, but none of the old or odd-ball crap I want. :-)
- Indawoods
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Well... they are right down the street from me... and they are BIG! I will pop in there tomorrow if they are open and find out for ya....
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****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
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I have an '87 KDX200 and a '94 KDX200. The manuals do not mention the 57001-1245 tool. They mention different tools. I am just trying to figure out if the 57001-1245 tool is discontinued or not, as I was hoping it would work on my '87 forks. I tried to order one from BikeBandit and they said it was discontinued.fulltiltboogie wrote:You really don't need any speciasl tool. You can use an impact to take out the valve. Leave fork assembled, turn upside down and slightly compress tube and use your impact and it will come right out.
Thanks for the suggestion on the air impact wrench. I have seen several people mention using an air impact wrench. On the pre-'89 forks, it is actually just a bolt. There is no base valve assembly. I would still need to tighten it to the proper torque on reassembly, so I think some tool is going to have to hold the damping rod still during reassembly. I bought an air impact wrench last night, so I am going to use it next time during disassembly. Paul Thede used one on the Race Tech video, and it seemed to make it a LOT easier during disassembly.
Thanks.
- Mr. Wibbens
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I tried making the tool listed here and at the other site
But I had trouble finding a metric nut that large
I ended up buying FRP's Fork Dampener Tool
But I had trouble finding a metric nut that large
I ended up buying FRP's Fork Dampener Tool
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According to this: http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40
its a 27mm
I burned up enough gas looking for a 27mm nut that I prolly have close to $50 invested in mine
its a 27mm
I burned up enough gas looking for a 27mm nut that I prolly have close to $50 invested in mine
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The nut on the other end is smaller, so you can attach your 12 point socket to itJasonWho wrote:Are both nuts the same size on your FRP tool?
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Ok I went out in my underwear and checked it!
The nut on the other end is a 1-1/16"
The nut on the other end is a 1-1/16"
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