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You have to loosen the spring an slide it up, then take off the stock "C" by sliding the bumper and bumper cup up, then removing the "C" and putting the ring on, then reinstall the "C" and slide this ring down onto the "C", then slide the bumper cup and bumper down. All the RT springs I have used have one side smaller than the other. "C" = spring guide.

Thanks. I understand the assembly of it now. But even with the pictured adapter (or spacer) slid inside the C spring guide there is still about 1/8" side clearance or play.
Whereas the stock Kawasaki spring with the stock C guide only has about 1/32" of extra clearance. So either kawasaki did not design enough clearance or race tech designed too much clearance or perhaps it does not matter.
That and the adapter is thin aluminum which more easily cracks than steel. I am not confident in the Race Tech setup.
Also if I went to a Lectron carb in the future, the larger diameter shock spring could possibly interfere with the Lectron carb.

Race Tech has not responded yet to the spacer and clearance problem.

In the meantime I returned the Race Tech spring & spacer.

And I ordered a Factory connection spring. Will let you know the results.

Thanks for the follow up.

OK, the factory connection 5.2 KG shock spring #ALN-0052 with adapter just arrived.
I am glad to report that the Factory connection adapter is made out of steel and it has no cutout (C shape) to weaken it.
(Unlike the Race Tech adapter that was weaker aluminum and had a unneeded cutout).



However there is still alot of side to side clearance (or play) between the adapter and the stock guide. It has at least as much play as the Race Tech unit had, maybe more. It is about 3/16" total (or 3/32" per side). Also the Factory Connection adapter is a tight fit inside the spring requiring you to hammer it in (although hopefully just lightly tapping it will work).



So at this point, if no other choices, I plan to go with the more robust Factory Connection spring/adapter. As long as it is OK to hammer the adapter inside the spring and 3/16" side to side play is acceptable. (The Kawasaki OE spring has only 1/32" play.) But I will give Jeff Fredette a call first.

After all that I talked to Bruce Triplett and ordered a custom made rear spring with the stock taper, but a progressive rate instead of single rate.
So instead of a 5.2 straight spring, I went with a 5.2 to 5.6 progressive spring. (He believes a 5.4 straight spring would be right for me, not a 5.2).

Progressive rate? I hope it works out for you.

Jason wrote:Progressive rate? I hope it works out for you.

Yes I know "progressive spring" is a bad word in off-road.
Yet Bruce Triplett does have proven suspension working very nicely for CRF230F riders.
He gets good reviews for his end product. He has alot of experience with KDX's and KLX's.
So I am going to put his spring to the test (just the rear). It is not extremely progessive like .33 to .50 fork springs they tried at one time.
More like .42 to .46 rate.