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I have not yet chosen a two stroke oil for my newly acquired 2001 KDX220.
My priorities in order of importance are: 1) longevity of the top end 2) keeping the KIPS clean 3) lowering the amount of exhaust smoke
So far I am leaning toward:

1) Motul 710 36:1
2) Amsoil intercepter 36:1
3) Yamalube 2R 36:1

What do you think should be on my short list?
Thanks.

I have run Amsoil in everything I own for over 20 years. Never have had any issues.

I'm having good results with Shell VSX2 @32:1 compression hasn't dropped in a bit over a year of hard use the top of the piston is clean enough I can still read most of the numbers using bore scope through the spark plug hole. I can still see machining marks on the piston skirt when I look through the exhaust port and the kips is not gumming up.
For a fairly cheap oil I am happy and surprised with the results so far.

Almost any good quality oil will meet your goals. Since the kdx isnt a high rev race engine I would lean towards an oil with a lower flash point and then dial in your jetting. Follow the jetting guide at the bottom of the page.
I have run many oil brands over the years, been using Amsoil Interceptor (mainly because its readily avalible) exclusivly in my 220 and have had great sucess with it. Sorry, i used Belray dino oil for break in.
I tore my motor down to clean the PV's and it was pretty clean. The valves weren't as clean as this piston but they really didnt need a cleaning. Approx 100 - 120 hrs on this topend, picture taken of the piston untouched at teardown. The head was totally clean, piston showed normal wear.


I think proper jetting and good fuel are the key to keeping a motor clean and reducing smoke.

I like:
-Motorex. Expensive, burns very clean.
-Motul 800. Expensive, burns very clean. There are two versions, make sure to get the dirt bike version.
-Motul 710. Pretty expensive, burns very clean. I've found it in the local scooter store. The scooter guys seem to use/like it.
-Maxima K2. Expensive, burns very clean.

I can't imagine having problems with any of these oils, they're all excellent.

Dave B wrote:Almost any good quality oil will meet your goals. Since the kdx isnt a high rev race engine I would lean towards an oil with a lower flash point and then dial in your jetting. Follow the jetting guide at the bottom of the page.
I have run many oil brands over the years, been using Amsoil Interceptor (mainly because its readily avalible) exclusivly in my 220 and have had great sucess with it. Sorry, i used Belray dino oil for break in.
I tore my motor down to clean the PV's and it was pretty clean. The valves weren't as clean as this piston but they really didnt need a cleaning. Approx 100 - 120 hrs on this topend, picture taken of the piston untouched at teardown. The head was totally clean, piston showed normal wear.

I think proper jetting and good fuel are the key to keeping a motor clean and reducing smoke.

I ride mainly technical woods terrain in the low to middle RPM range. So if a lower flash point works better:
The flash point of Motul 710 is reported to be 190 deg. & Amsoil interceptor is reported to be 187 deg.
(Compare that to Motul 800 reported to be 485 deg.) Yamalube is 255 deg. while Honda HP2 is 221 deg.
So I will remove yamalube 2R from the short list and add Honda HP2.

So Currently:
1) Motul 710
2) Amsoil Intercepter
3) Honda HP2

Thanks for sharing about the break in oil. I also believe in running non-synthetic. ( I am in the middle of attempting to install a new wiseco top end)
What type of Bel-Ray did you use and what mixture? 32 to 1?

The Motul 710 will always get my vote, though I don't have much experience with other oils, as the only other ones I've used were the Spectro Platinum SX-2 (which is also a good oil for the KDX) and some of the old Mobil 1 when I first bought my bike. The Motul I've been using for quite some time now, mixed at 40:1..... I don't know how many hours are on my bike total, but in the 3 years I've had it I've put 896 hours and 15,446 miles..... same top and bottom end as when I bought it, and zero problems whatsoever. Still perfect compression, perfect leakdown, piston and cylinder look great, starts easy hot or cold, and runs strong. I do have a new piston for it but haven't put it in yet, so don't have any teardown pics just yet. Lower flashpoint means it burns nice and clean..... I've never fouled a plug and never had to clean my power valve, and it still operates smooth as butter (with the claw off, I can easily turn the shaft with my fingers open and closed). Just a FWIW from my experience with the Motul. It's good stuff

2018-03-27_01-14-15 by Jared Penttinen, on Flickr

Love my 927 at 40:1 but I ride in extreme conditions and wring my bike out hard.

JL4049 wrote:I'm having good results with Shell VSX2 @32:1 compression hasn't dropped in a bit over a year of hard use the top of the piston is clean enough I can still read most of the numbers using bore scope through the spark plug hole. I can still see machining marks on the piston skirt when I look through the exhaust port and the kips is not gumming up.
For a fairly cheap oil I am happy and surprised with the results so far.

As far as I can tell Shell VSX2 two stroke oil is not sold in the USA. But thanks for sharing your experience anyway.

Thanks for sharing about the break in oil. I also believe in running non-synthetic. ( I am in the middle of attempting to install a new wiseco top end)
What type of Bel-Ray did you use and what mixture? 32 to 1?

I ran BelRay Mineral 2T at 40:1 for break in.
Always been a fan of BelRay, used to run their synthetic oil back in my racing days until I got a Silkolene sponsorship and ran their Comp 2 oil. It was a great oil also but is now hard to find in our area. I run my premix at 40:1.

Wow thirdgenlki 896hrs!!....... I would have put three topends in over that much time. Heck I just put new rings in because .... why not!! Lol ... it was apart over the winter anyways to clean the pv's.

Sorry to hijack, but it is relevant I think.

I currently run 927 at 40:1 in mine but I was thinking about changing (maybe to 710). Any idea how I might have to re-jet? Also, what is the common ratio with Motul?

Thanks
Jeff

Gixxer340 wrote:Sorry to hijack, but it is relevant I think.

I currently run 927 at 40:1 in mine but I was thinking about changing (maybe to 710). Any idea how I might have to re-jet? Also, what is the common ratio with Motul?

Thanks
Jeff

I've always ran 40:1 with mine..... Seems to work well

Jim B wrote:I like:
-Motorex. Expensive, burns very clean.
-Motul 800. Expensive, burns very clean. There are two versions, make sure to get the dirt bike version.
-Motul 710. Pretty expensive, burns very clean. I've found it in the local scooter store. The scooter guys seem to use/like it.
-Maxima K2. Expensive, burns very clean.
I can't imagine having problems with any of these oils, they're all excellent.

Sounds like excellent suggestions.
Motorex Cross Power 2T: Its 230 deg. flash point is slightly higher than my short list oils. Must be good stuff since KTM recommends it. Developed by "leading race teams" means that it MAY be better suited for higher RPM running. Worth considering though.
Motul 800: with a 485 deg. flash point, sounds not be suitable for my type of riding.
Motul 710: Still #1 on my short list.
Maxima K2: 240 deg. flash point, Decoster/Carmichael developed. Another good oil perhaps best suited for high RPM running.

Thanks for these suggestions. Will keep in mind Motul 710 & Motorex.

freeindeed wrote:Sounds like excellent suggestions.
Motorex Cross Power 2T: Its 230 deg. flash point is slightly higher than my short list oils. Must be good stuff since KTM recommends it. Developed by "leading race teams" means that it MAY be better suited for higher RPM running. Worth considering though.
Motul 800: with a 485 deg. flash point, sounds not be suitable for my type of riding.
Motul 710: Still #1 on my short list.
Maxima K2: 240 deg. flash point, Decoster/Carmichael developed. Another good oil perhaps best suited for high RPM running.

Thanks for these suggestions. Will keep in mind Motul 710 & Motorex.

I think you may be paying a bit too much attention to flash point/overthinking this. I understand why it's important, but I found they were all clean-burning oils. I've seen people say the 800 isn't, but in my experience it was just fine. I've never understood why people are so freaked-out by some oil on the back fender. It's a two stroke for cryin' out loud!

Why not try several over the next season and see which you like the best? If you're riding enough, it shouldn't take long to burn up a quart/liter. Not too big of a commitment to try out a new oil...

BTW, if you're looking for something really clean-burning, you could try Lucas semi-synthetic. It's pretty inexpensive and available at O'Reilly Auto Parts. I prefer full synthetic, but I've burned a few quarts of the Lucas with no problems.

Buying Two stroke oil is so subjective. User reviews/experiences play a large part in the decision process.
Flash point at least gives us one objective characteristic (among others).
Character alert: I tend to be meticulous (overmeticulous?) in my research as well as the care of my bike.

Maybe you ride more aggressively, at higher RPM rates so the high flash point of Motul 800 did not impact you as much as some riders?
I would be concerned with not only the extra spooge and smoke, but the POSSIBILITY that the top end and the KIPS would be getting carboned/coked up and need cleaning more often or risk failure. Slower riders who torque around the track/trail MAY have such concerns.

I like the sound of that Lucas semi-synthetic oil. The flash point is 182 deg. No wonder why its users say it burns so clean. Then you also get the benefits of both synthetic and mineral oil.

Like you say I might have to try more than one, but I am hoping that my 1st choice will work well for my riding style, terrain and priorities.

Gixxer340 wrote:Sorry to hijack, but it is relevant I think.

I currently run 927 at 40:1 in mine but I was thinking about changing (maybe to 710). Any idea how I might have to re-jet? Also, what is the common ratio with Motul?

Thanks
Jeff

Only way to know for sure is to do plug chops.

freeindeed wrote:Buying Two stroke oil is so subjective. User reviews/experiences play a large part in the decision process.
Flash point at least gives us one objective characteristic (among others).
Character alert: I tend to be meticulous (overmeticulous?) in my research as well as the care of my bike.

Maybe you ride more aggressively, at higher RPM rates so the high flash point of Motul 800 did not impact you as much as some riders?
I would be concerned with not only the extra spooge and smoke, but the POSSIBILITY that the top end and the KIPS would be getting carboned/coked up and need cleaning more often or risk failure. Slower riders who torque around the track/trail MAY have such concerns.

I like the sound of that Lucas semi-synthetic oil. The flash point is 182 deg. No wonder why its users say it burns so clean. Then you also get the benefits of both synthetic and mineral oil.

Like you say I might have to try more than one, but I am hoping that my 1st choice will work well for my riding style, terrain and priorities.

Spooge is the result of poor jetting and/or poor engine condition. Smoke? Who cares!

Just more food for thought. I won't run any 2T oil that has a flashpoint lower than around 250 degrees. Why? Because once it starts to burn it's lubrication properties start going away! I want it to stay a lubricant as long as it possibly can before it is burned hence why I run Castor 927. This promotes longer engine life overall. Do you need to clean your powervalves more often? Maybe, maybe not, but I haven't ever noticed a difference. Then again, my bike is nowhere near stock and I run my bike pretty hard so I get combustion temps really hot.

freeindeed wrote:I would be concerned with...the POSSIBILITY that the top end and the KIPS would be getting carboned/coked up and need cleaning more often or risk failure.

I don't think that would happen with a quality synthetic. I recently took apart and cleaned my top end after nine years of use. Most of the power valve parts just wiped clean. A few took a little bit of carb cleaner, but they weren't bad at all. I've used mostly full synthetics, and the two quarts of Lucas semi-synthetic. Everything looked nice and oily just like I, and my engine, like it. I mix at 26:1, BTW.

Jim B wrote:

freeindeed wrote:I would be concerned with...the POSSIBILITY that the top end and the KIPS would be getting carboned/coked up and need cleaning more often or risk failure.

I don't think that would happen with a quality synthetic. I recently took apart and cleaned my top end after nine years of use. Most of the power valve parts just wiped clean. A few took a little bit of carb cleaner, but they weren't bad at all. I've used mostly full synthetics, with the two quarts of Lucas. Everything looked nice and oily just like I, and my engine, like it. I mix at 26:1, BTW.

STOP IT! STOP IT!

If people read your reply, they may start to think that proper maintenance and jetting is important to the power valves not getting caked up with carbon and breaking instead of a poor design by Kawasaki. PLEASE... Stop the insanity!

Jason wrote:STOP IT! STOP IT!

If people read your reply, they may start to think that proper maintenance and jetting is important to the power valves not getting caked up with carbon and breaking instead of a poor design by Kawasaki. PLEASE... Stop the insanity!

LOL!