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So I got my bike out to load it up to ride tomorrow and it's dripping from the weep hole, so I assume the seal is bad. Looked at rebuild kits on eBay and it appears that the kit includes a case gasket. Surely the case doesn't have to be split to replace that seal???? I've done lot of wrenching on a lot of bikes, but I've never replaced a water pump seal. Anything I should know in advance? I've got a manual on order but haven't received it yet. Is it complicated enough that I should wait for the manual to arrive?

No need to split cases, but you will need to drain coolant and oil. Water pump cover is 3 8mm bolts, the impeller shaft nut is 10mm. Both get torqued to 87 INCH POUNDS. Cover off, remove the impeller, remove the mechanical seal and o-ring, reverse to install. Search this site for info on it. IIRC someone had a post a while back with pics of the mechanical seal and how it all goes together (here) He hads the inner cover off, but not necessary just to replace the mechanical seal.

I'm curious how others have pressed in the mechanical seal. The manual specifically states "Never tap on the mechanical seal, use a press only." I just did mine but I do have an actual press so it was easy.

Thanks for the link bufftester. Looks simple enough. Luckily I have a press if it's necessary.

Well, I know others here have replaced this seal but no one is speaking up. Are some of you feeling guilty for not doing what the manual says? It doesn't matter to me as there is always things in manuals saying you have to do it a certain way with "X" special tool but either you don't or there is a different way of doing it.

Speaking of doing it differently, when replacing everything for the water pump (bearing, regular seal, and mechanical seal) I install the bearing first and then the standard seal which is opposite of what the manual says. It's just way easier and it works.

BTW, commander, if you need a special tool to use with your press to press in the mechanical seal, a 3/4" to 3/4" straight PVC pipe coupler from Home Depot works perfectly and cost under $1!

SS109 wrote: Speaking of doing it differently, when replacing everything for the water pump (bearing, regular seal, and mechanical seal) I install the bearing first and then the standard seal which is opposite of what the manual says. It's just way easier and it works.

So the way you do it, the bearing gets no oil to it?

SS109 wrote:..........BTW, commander, if you need a special tool to use with your press to press in the mechanical seal, a 3/4" to 3/4" straight PVC pipe coupler from Home Depot works perfectly and cost under $1!

Thanks for the info'. I'll go ahead and pick one up, then that's one less thing I'll have to chase down when I tear it apart. My manual should be here tomorrow, so I'm gonna wait until then before getting started. Gonna tear the top end down and clean the KIPS while I'm at it. It's not wanting to rev out and I have a feeling that's my culprit.

david wrote:

SS109 wrote: Speaking of doing it differently, when replacing everything for the water pump (bearing, regular seal, and mechanical seal) I install the bearing first and then the standard seal which is opposite of what the manual says. It's just way easier and it works.

So the way you do it, the bearing gets no oil to it?

LOL! No, everything still sits in the exact same position as it is supposed to be. I only changed the order in how I do it. Bearing first with it's sealed side towards the water pump (per the manual), then I install the the oil seal from the outside of the cover until it seats against the sealed side of the bearing, and then the mechanical seal.

Oh, ok. I follow you now.

The seal replacement was easy. Unfortunately now I have bigger problems that I'll address in a new post.