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I'm getting ready to put my top end together finally! I noticed the sleeve was sticking up from cylinder just a little bit that I could feel it with my finger tip. So I put a straight edge on to see and I definitely have light behind it. So i started looking closer, it looks like the aluminum is actually crystalized where ever there was bare metal. The manual calls for cylinder head warp service limit of .05mm so I should be able to assume the cylinder has to have a comparable service limit.

can anyone shed some light on this issue?

Not great. Any decent machine shop should be able to fix that up for you, though. It doesnt look like it has move so much as it was just installed poorly.

So I talked to the guy he ended up driving out to my job site! Which was very cool I went over my concerns with him. He said he leaves the sleeve a little high to help the head gasket seal up. And what I thought was the aluminum crystallizing was actually where he had media blasted it and his media was just a little big

That may seal the combustion chamber, but what about the water jackets.

royadams wrote:That may seal the combustion chamber, but what about the water jackets.

That's what i wass thinking. i used some 600 grit and wd40 and took it down a little I also used this stone that I got from a friend to help keep everything flat.

Does anyone know what the hex key on the bottom of the cylinder called. Mine looks kind of messed up. Is it replaceable?

It's a pipe plug that goes into the water jacket. Just make sure it's tight. If it was removed then it needs some thread sealant on it to make sure you don't have a coolant leak. Do it now while it's apart because once you put the motor back together you can't get to it.

david wrote:It's a pipe plug that goes into the water jacket. Just make sure it's tight. If it was removed then it needs some thread sealant on it to make sure you don't have a coolant leak. Do it now while it's apart because once you put the motor back together you can't get to it.

Thank you, I left it in the cylinder when I sent it off to be sleeved and it looks like during the heat treating process it started to deform I may have to drill it out and get a new plug to insure that it doesn't leak down the road. But u couldn't find it in any of the online parts diagrams so im assuming that I can pick it up at a hardware store or auto parts store.

Well here's how far I got drilling the old plug out.... Pretty much nowhere.



It ate threw my 5/16" 3/8" 1/2"drill bits on my 8" drill press. its not a great drill press but it usually does what I need.

Ffryno13 wrote:so im assuming that I can pick it up at a hardware store or auto parts store.

I am sure it is metric and will probably be difficult to find. I am thinking you will need to tap it for something more commonly available.

I got the new plug which is not available from OEM it's a metric pipe cap m16x 1.5

Ffryno13 wrote:I got the new plug which is not available from OEM it's a metric pipe cap m16x 1.5

BOOM! THIS GUY!!

Sweet info!

Nice find. Where did you pickup something like that?

Tedh98 wrote:Nice find. Where did you pickup something like that?

I'm sure if they are just a local hardware outfit or not but they are called fastnel they were able order it for me. Most of the local auto parts stores had them available for order also. I did have to take about a 1/16" of the top of it so it would clear the cases. But along with having a main 8mm socket there is a 4mm or maybe 6mm socket for an Allen key on the bottom if you need to take more material off of it

Julien D wrote:Not great. Any decent machine shop should be able to fix that up for you, though. It doesnt look like it has move so much as it was just installed poorly.

+1 ,,,, I'd make sure the sleeve / top of cylinder were machined perfectly flat before assembling .

He may seem like a decent guy but doesn't know much about KDX head gaskets.

Your probably right I'll have to tear it back down and take it to my normal machine shop guy. It's making me nervous now.

This is my first 100% re build so I'm already a little nervous that I didn't seal the cases well enough, or that I forgot to do _______. And it's going in a hybrid so I've had that to deal with too.

Thank you guys for your input I wish some one would put together a complete rebuild kit likrv wrench rabbit dies for almost all other models.

C George wrote:

Julien D wrote:Not great. Any decent machine shop should be able to fix that up for you, though. It doesnt look like it has move so much as it was just installed poorly.

+1 ,,,, I'd make sure the sleeve / top of cylinder were machined perfectly flat before assembling .

He may seem like a decent guy but doesn't know much about KDX head gaskets.

I don't have PM yet. Ryandotwistrandatgmail.com