KDXRIDER.NET

I can't find the thread now, but there was one (thank you!) about using a kx125 clutch actuator, on the kdx's.

To get a very soft clutch feel, I scooted my clutch perch as far medial (in!) as I could while still having two fingers in full contact. This is a stock clutch lever mind you, so it's long and ugly, but we're talking about levers, so we WANT long !


...


The kdx200/220 actuator arm (the one sticking out of the clutch cover, connects to the cable) is about 1" from pivot to pivot. The kx125 is about 1 1/4" pivot to pivot.

Why do I care about pivots and a stupid 1/4" of difference ? you might ask.

The answer is because levers are awesome. By changing from the stocker to the longer distanced kx125, the effort required to pull the clutch is next to nothing, less than hydraulic in feel. Yesssssss, that good.



After a quick setup to make sure the clutch was actually engaging fully (6th gear, front tire against a tree, let the clutch out slowly.... stall = good, slip = bad!) I rode around and was very pleasantly surprised with how light the feel was. I was sitting at a redlight and when it changed to green (yay green!) I actually tried to pull in the lever and drop into first gear, forgetting I was already in first, and had the clutch lever pulled in all the way to the grip. Yowza this stuff good !


Anyway, I'd like to thank whoever it was that figured this out 20 years ago, it's a GREAT modification, and I'm very happy with the effortless action now. Show me some arm-pump inducing singletrack baby, I'm ready ! :D

Nice!
Good write up!

I don't know if someone else figured it out but I remember reading some time ago that Kawasaki lightened there KX125 clutch by making the arm longer. One came up on eBay and by the pictures it looked the same so took the punt (KX1989) it turned out to be 5 mm longer which was good but I then extended the KDX one 5mm further than that, no issu and its super light which is good as when I converted my clutch to auto it tightened it up again to now ok.

Very bottom of page 20

ohgood wrote:I can't find the thread now, but there was one (thank you!) about using a kx125 clutch actuator, on the kdx's.

To get a very soft clutch feel, I scooted my clutch perch as far medial (in!) as I could while still having two fingers in full contact. This is a stock clutch lever mind you, so it's long and ugly, but we're talking about levers, so we WANT long !


...


The kdx200/220 actuator arm (the one sticking out of the clutch cover, connects to the cable) is about 1" from pivot to pivot. The kx125 is about 1 1/4" pivot to pivot.

Why do I care about pivots and a stupid 1/4" of difference ? you might ask.

The answer is because levers are awesome. By changing from the stocker to the longer distanced kx125, the effort required to pull the clutch is next to nothing, less than hydraulic in feel. Yesssssss, that good.



After a quick setup to make sure the clutch was actually engaging fully (6th gear, front tire against a tree, let the clutch out slowly.... stall = good, slip = bad!) I rode around and was very pleasantly surprised with how light the feel was. I was sitting at a redlight and when it changed to green (yay green!) I actually tried to pull in the lever and drop into first gear, forgetting I was already in first, and had the clutch lever pulled in all the way to the grip. Yowza this stuff good !

What year 125 rod did you use? Any particular E-bay search term that we should use?

Tioli wrote:I don't know if someone else figured it out but I remember reading some time ago that Kawasaki lightened there KX125 clutch by making the arm longer. One came up on eBay and by the pictures it looked the same so took the punt (KX1989) it turned out to be 5 mm longer which was good but I then extended the KDX one 5mm further than that, no issu and its super light which is good as when I converted my clutch to auto it tightened it up again to now ok.

Very bottom of page 20

more great info, thank you!

6 Riders wrote:

ohgood wrote:I can't find the thread now, but there was one (thank you!) about using a kx125 clutch actuator, on the kdx's.

To get a very soft clutch feel, I scooted my clutch perch as far medial (in!) as I could while still having two fingers in full contact. This is a stock clutch lever mind you, so it's long and ugly, but we're talking about levers, so we WANT long !


...


The kdx200/220 actuator arm (the one sticking out of the clutch cover, connects to the cable) is about 1" from pivot to pivot. The kx125 is about 1 1/4" pivot to pivot.

Why do I care about pivots and a stupid 1/4" of difference ? you might ask.

The answer is because levers are awesome. By changing from the stocker to the longer distanced kx125, the effort required to pull the clutch is next to nothing, less than hydraulic in feel. Yesssssss, that good.



After a quick setup to make sure the clutch was actually engaging fully (6th gear, front tire against a tree, let the clutch out slowly.... stall = good, slip = bad!) I rode around and was very pleasantly surprised with how light the feel was. I was sitting at a redlight and when it changed to green (yay green!) I actually tried to pull in the lever and drop into first gear, forgetting I was already in first, and had the clutch lever pulled in all the way to the grip. Yowza this stuff good !

What year 125 rod did you use? Any particular E-bay search term that we should use?

I was not specific in my search, just tried it out. apparently this was a 1989 year arm?

the sellers profile, that I have bought a few items from:

http://m.ebay.com/seller?sid=dirtbikepa ... ER_DETAILS

Is there a specific metal that is used or is it Just off the shelf mild steel?

How hard to install the KX arm? Would it be easier to just cut, extend and weld the KDX arm?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It's easy to extend the arm. I did not use any particular metal and I don't think it's that important as the arm metal seamed like miled steel.
A few things:
I ended up extending mine 15mm longer than standard but 10 is enough, 15 is super light.

Watch the angle you add the bit in the middle. If you just make it longer it will in effect move the part the cable connects to back. This affects your adjustment range so to keep it all in the same place you have to angle it a little forward.

May want to check clutch disengagement with a longer actuator arm as well. The longer the actuator arm lever becomes, the smaller the movement of the actuator arm.

I agree SwS that's why I went with the 5mm extended KX one first. It was nice but not what I was after. Turns out unbeknown to me I had HD clutch springs which made my dislike for heavy clutches worse.

The 5mm extension still gave plenty of room for cable/leaver free play. Made the transition stage slightly longer but still very much more than enough over pull.

How I was testing it was with the motor going and on a slight up hill let the clutch out to find the engagement point. Then while riding up the slight hill pull the clutch in to find the disengagement point.

5mm was better but not what I was after so cut and shut the KDX one 10mm longer and put that in. This was nice with as much free play as I wanted and over pull so I went for really light and extended the KX one 10mm which is 15mm over stock.

15mm was still well with in margins. Where there could be difference is the bike came with a aftermarket clutch purch and I put those short Chinese anodised eBay adjustable leavers on so who knows if my pull ratios are anywhere near stock. Shouldn't be to far off though as I adjust the leavers to sit the same length out on all my bikes, just after the first knuckle fingers lightly extended. This spot is usually further in than stock.

Any way 15mm extension shouldn't be a problem and 10 is probably enough.

[quote="Tioli"I]
Watch the angle you add the bit in the middle. If you just make it longer it will in effect move the part the cable connects to back. This affects your adjustment range so to keep it all in the same place you have to angle it a little forward.[/quote]
Angle? Do you have pics?

The pictures start bottom of page 20 and continues over to page 21. At the bottom of page 21 is a picture of a 10 and 15mm extended arms. The longer 15mm is an example of bending the wrong way and not following my own advice.

Link to page 20 or follow the link with in my signature.

http://www.trials.com.au/forum/viewtopi ... &start=380