rewound coil, voltage drops off?

[ohgood]

rewound the lighting coil, and there lights seem brighter. I see between 10v (low idle) to about 14v , but then it drops off again to 10v or so.

I've tried different loads, one two or three , 18w led light bars, series or parallel doesn't seem to matter, same effect.

is this just what happens with AC ?

I tried using my rectifier (cheap from electronic store) with floated ground, but got voltage spikes and it killed one of the LED bars, so I gave up on that method.

a little help ?

[Jaguar]

power from coils reduces past a certain rpm and keeps reducing as the rpm increases.

[6 Riders]

Also, if you are using the Radio Shack type rectifier, you still need to run the AC or dc through a regulator. AC is alternating current, so it doesn't have a steady wave length and causes all sorts of havoc with DC lights (and etc.). DC is a nice smooth wave length, but still needs to be regulated to avoid spikes.

So, in short, you need to regulate the voltage. A battery between the rectifier and the lights will do this. So, AC to rectifier, rectifier to battery, battery to accessory. This is the cheapest way. Trail Tech makes a regulator/rectifier for doing this, but it's $80~....So..your choice.
I ended up buying the Tusk light kit ($200~) and have loved it. I blew up the original battery (avoid this by buying the proper charger for the Tusk battery) so I got a Led acid battery for security systems from batteries plus, I have charged it ONCE since I have had it and it still powers the turn signals, horn is a little weak now though. Another note on this, if you can find an RC car 12 volt battery, it should work even better than the tusk, or the lead acid that I use. If I use a rectifier to change ac to dc, then run the headlight and tail lights off of that, I should be fine as well.

[K50X200]

The Baja Designs D/S kit uses a small battery pack which is made up of AA batteries wired in series.
When I bought my plated KDX (with a BD D/S kit installed) the battery pack was shot so, I rewound the stator and soldered up my own battery pack from these (3000mah vs B/D's 700mah):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-12-Pa ... 1e7d42210d
I've been running this set-up for three years with no problems... I do use a Battery Tender Jr. during storage to keep the battery pack topped off - and learned after using the Ni-MH batteries that they may not be the best for the task do to a limited lifetime, but have had no problems thus far. The BD D/S kit tucks them up behind the headlight...
Don't know if this'll work for your situation - but it is a big space & weight saver!

[C George]

An RC equivalent would be a 3S Lipo , the major problem here is that the maximum charged voltage can't
exceed 12.75 volts and that they like to be stored at 11.5 volts.
If you were to exceed 12.75 volts , your going to have a lipo fire , which is a chemical fire , NOT GOOD.
The 10 cell nimh battery is the safer way to go. 10 volts minimum and 14 volts max shd be fine.

[ohgood]

Thanks guys. I bought a GY6 (hugely popular scooter engine) regulator rectifier from ebay ($9) and the smallest 12V battery that batteries plus had on hand ($19) and put it in circuit. My electrical engineer friend laughed at my amazement of a properly working lighting system after I told him about it. "yes, you have to have a battery, or at least a capacitor, for it to work right with led's"

So, here I am with some ugly wiring, but a kickin LED headlight, and added bonus, I can now run 12Vdc accessory plugs to charge my phone too, which does all my GPS tracking duties.

Sweet. It's the perfect dualsport bike now ! :D :D :D

[IDRIDR]

^ I like it! Thanks.