2002 KDX200 clutch problems

Discussion specific to the 1995 - 2006 KDX200 (H Series) and 1995 - 2005 KDX220R (A Series) models sold in the USA
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5-SpeedXJ
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2002 KDX200 clutch problems

Post by 5-SpeedXJ »

I have had the bike for two years and this year i want to fix my clutch issue. The problem is not when riding its when i come to a stop with the clutch lever pulled in in gear and the bike still moves slightly. So my first thought was the cable just needs adjustment so I mess around with that and I get it to the point where its won't move with the lever pulled but now when release I can feel it slipping. So i parked it like that after last season winterized it and haven't touched it since. I picked up a Sled so that took up most of my time this winter. Now that season is wrapping up i want to get my bike ready for the season.

The only thing i can think of is if the friction disks are so worn that no adjustment will help my problem and a clutch kit is in order.

Come on spring

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02 KDX 200
Boyesen 607 Power Reed
Pro Circuit Pipe
Pro Circuit Factory 304
RB Carb Mod
Trail Tech Computer
Horn
DC Power Conversion "Lighting Circuit"
KX500 Forks
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bufftester
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Re: 2002 KDX200 clutch problems

Post by bufftester »

As riding season rolls in this is an issue that comes up often. KDX's are notorious for clutch drag even when in neutral. Many find that ATF works well for this issue (though it requires more frequent changing). Others have had luck with 85w gear oil. New plates and springs may help if yours are worn. If you have never changed your clutch pack it's probably due anyways (13 years old even as an '02).
2C racer
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2002 KDX200 clutch problems

Post by 2C racer »

When you have the clutch apart, look very closely at the basket and how tightly the clutch pack fits between the basket fingers. I've had questionable clutch action on my KDX hybrid most of it's existence; about 4 years. I don't know this for sure, but I have become convinced that notching in the basket fingers and/or wear of the fiber plate tabs is to blame. You can file out the notches, however this just leads to quicker degradation of clutch action. When the clearance between the tabs on the clutch plates and the slots in the basket are out of spec (loose, meaning you can see/feel movement), the extra space allows the plates to "hammer" against the basket, notches re-appear quickly. Notches cause the plates to not float freely in and out, and could be the cause of drag. I found that replacing both the basket and clutch pack at the same time brought back decent clutch action; cleaner disengage, smoother engage. It also dramatically reduced the oil abuse. I was seeing dark, metallic oil after a hard day, but now can leave it several rides and see very little discoloration. I'm using a Wiseco WPP3058 basket ($190 approx) and DP Brakes brand clutch and springs kit # DPK120 ($130 approx). I've tried all kinds of oils, including ATF and expensive synthetics, back when I was fighting this problem. I have gone back to Castrol GTX Motorcycle 4T 10-40 since it is easy to get and fairly inexpensive, and designed for a wet clutch. I believe when the clutch components are in spec oil is not a factor. Good luck, hope some of this is helpful.
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