i need help!KIPS issues

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Budget_89KDX
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i need help!KIPS issues

Post by Budget_89KDX »

Ok this is a little long and drawn out but here it goes.I have the expansion chamber off and decided to check the kips was working.I moved the rod in and out and looked up in the exhaust port to see 2 of the 3 valves moving the exhaust valve and (if you're standing in front of the bike the left side) left side working.so I pop the cover off that say kips on it and with a small screw driver I was able to move it a 1/4 of a full turn.I did this while moving the shaft back and forth and now its engaging but you can some times rotate the valve apparently past the good teeth and it doesn't engage and doesn't move.I'm new to the kips and I didn't do the work to the topend and don't know if it was done right but looking at the diagram the left is open while the right is closed is this right?can I do away with the kips and if I do how do I do so and what are the effects of doing so?anyone got pics of this thing and how it she look opened and closed?I'm extremely confused.
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Post by Indawoods »

The manual does.... :wink:

They are either both open or closed....
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Post by Budget_89KDX »

I just pulled the head and I have two problems one I don't think I got the coolant all the way drained so it ran to the crank how do I get that out or will it be ok and get ran out when it starts?and two the teeth aren't stripped on the gears but its hit and miss on that one valve.what do I do now?in the fully rested position the one valve on the clutch side appears to be open I can see up into it through the exhaust while the stator side is closed is this right?I have to push the top of the valve foward to get it to engage.if anyones near me id really like to have someone with more experience look at this before I make an expensive mistake.would you be able to help inda?I'm out of my league here I have no idea wtf to do.
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

Yeah... You will have to buy new valves if they are stripped. It happens more on E series bikes than H series. So, it is normal...

Replace them and you will probably get another 10 years out of them.

Go to bikebandit.com and look them up on the fiche to see what they will cost you. I can help you get them replaced.

Where did the coolant run into?

Looks like the valves are about $35 a pop from ronayers.com....
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Post by Budget_89KDX »

You're the man inda!8t was a stripped valve 3 teeth are gone.I cleaned everything up and for the life of me can not figure how to reassemble.everything looks great but that one valve with the 3 stripped teeth.the coolant ran down into the cylinder.I don't know how much but I flooded it with fogging oil hoping it will either lube or displace the coolant long enough for the engine to get it out of there.do you work on these inda where you could help a novice like myself?if I seen the kips timing and install once I'm confident I could do it in the future and id hate to pay a shop for something I Could learn to do.I appreciate your help and hope you can help me learn an imortant area of this bike and get my kdx back up and running.the thing felt good without this valve apparently working I wonder how well it'll run with everything working?
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Post by dfeckel »

The online KDX manual advertised at the top of the home page has a pretty good pictorial and description of how to time the KIPS. It's not too difficult if you take your time doing it. When I took my KIPS apart, the both the right and left valves were snapped and the teeth were all worn off. I replaced everything I could in the KIPS system, including the little gears and bushings. Getting the valves all cleaned out and working properly again made a huge difference.
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Post by Budget_89KDX »

I've looked it over and can't seem to get it idk why but its very intimidating.so how about it inda?you be able to show me?
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

It just takes some fiddling. Get all the marks lined up

Last time I was in mine I did each valve by itself just to get the feel for how each should be positioned before I did the final assembly

Make sure everything is lubed, it will make things move much easier
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Post by Budget_89KDX »

I've been out in the garage all day tfrying to get familiar with the installation while I wait on a gasket set on the left side subvalve and I'm ready to throw the damn thing in a scrap heap!I even called world of powersports something I thought id never do and asked what they charged if I brought it to them and was quoted 70.if I can't locate someone locally like another owner this lloks like what ill have to do.I've looked at the manual pics and it shows dots and timing marks mine does not have.I even used carb cleaner and a soft wire brush and cleaned these things up to new condition and no marks so I don't know.inda would you be interested in helping id really hate to resort to the stealership.
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Can you take some pics?

Even without the marks the manual shows how they should be lined up
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

I said yeah.... :wink:
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Post by KDXsg »

I do own a e sereis and do the top end myself. it is real easy. if you do not have the dot marking on the power valve, just make sure that the all the 3 valves are install fully open position.
1) slot in all the 3 power power valves, leaving the aluminium idle gear out first.
2) slightly pull out each valve as you slight in the valve connecting rod from the resonator cover side in.
3) make sure you got the rod all the way in, because you want the valves to be install in fully open position.
4) then by looking at each valve position, insert back all 3 valves to the fully open position.
5) you can do this by looking into the cylinder exhuast opening to check that all valves are install fully open.
6) then install the idle gear, this gear is to connect the right valve to the connecting gear rod. apply abit of 2T or moly grease to all the gear.
7) then install back the centre valve cover.
8) put back the 3 spacers back on top of the L & R valve and the idle gear
9) install the clirclip at the end of the gear rod and check the valve movement by moving the gear cond rod in and out.
10) by having the rod all the way in, check that all valves are close and all way out, the valves are open.

then you are done with the valves. good luck.
Last edited by KDXsg on 07:55 pm Nov 03 2010, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Just don't move the rod back and forth too many times or they can easily jump a tooth
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Post by Budget_89KDX »

When would be a good time for you inda?i have ordered the gasket kit and I ordered the left subvalve everything else cleaned up nice and is ready for installation.if you could call and set up a time id appreciate it my number is 521-4062 and my name is shannon.thanks for your help I'm ready to pull my hair out.
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Post by Indawoods »

Just hang tight and let me know when you get your parts in... we will go from there.... :wink:
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

btw, here's what you are looking for

Image
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Post by Budget_89KDX »

>|<>QBB<
Indawoods wrote:Just hang tight and let me know when you get your parts in... we will go from there.... :wink:
thank you very much you are a god send sir!I really appreciate your help.I will let you as soon as I get them.
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Post by Budget_89KDX »

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Mr. Wibbens wrote:btw, here's what you are looking for

Image
I just checked and mine are either worn away if possible or don't have them either way I didn't see the marks.ill look again after dinner.
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Post by Budget_89KDX »

Also inda will I need to remove the jug?as of right now its not removed just the head.I. looked in the manual and it said everything could be done excdpt the exhaust valve removal so I left it in and using some gun cleaning brushes got it all cleaned.I did order a whole gasket kit so we should be good.
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Much easier to do with it off
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