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Working on my first top end.

Went to put the exhaust actuator back together and, while supporting, my hand slipped and I over torqued the shaft.

Now the shaft is twisted 2 teeth to the left causing the shaft lever to be off.

Any suggestions on how to remedy? Or do I have to take the whole engine apart to fix/reset the actuator shaft?



Redline is where the lever should be...

Any help would be appreciated![/img]

You also forgot to put the gasket on for the cover. Not that it matters now. I would have to say that you need a new shaft if it is twisted... You could try to bend it back but it will probably break, and you will have to take the whole mess apart to get to it anyway. Good luck.

How did you get the case so clean?

The shaft seems to be straight. Just 'twisted' off axis. Any suggestions how to twist it back? Vice-grips? Other?

Bike is essentially unused thus clean. Bought it a month ago. You should see the head! That's pulled directly from bike. Wiped a little oil off of it!

It's the piece that the shaft connects to in the case that breaks. I think this may be the case....

You will have to pull apart the covers to get to it....

Indawoods wrote:It's the piece that the shaft connects to in the case that breaks. I think this may be the case....

You will have to pull apart the covers to get to it....

+1

I just broke mine :/ apon disassembly.

You need:

(Qty: 1) 13234-1101 - SHAFT-COMP,GOVERNOR
(Qty: 1) 13236-1260 - LEVER-COMP,GOVERNOR <--- you may only need this.

thanks for the reply Gentlemen (Indawoods, bmiller)! Appreciate it!

So what am I in for when opening the covers? Straight pull-off? Do I have to pull apart the water pump? Will the covers come off in one piece?

I'll do some research now... ;)

Thanks!

luckymick wrote:thanks for the reply Gentlemen (Indawoods, bmiller)! Appreciate it!

So what am I in for when opening the covers? Straight pull-off? Do I have to pull apart the water pump? Will the covers come off in one piece?

I'll do some research now... ;)

Thanks!

You can leave the water pump and clutch cover on. You need to remove the bolts that hold the outer cover on.

Your goal is to remove part: 14032A in the below diagram

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_ ... &fveh=8589

Don't forget to remove the set screw and dowel part numbers 220 and 92043A in the above diagram.

You will be replacing 13236 in the above diagram. Be sure to loctite the alans (part number: 92150 in the above diagram)

If you haven't already figured it out, the nut that holds the gear atop of the governor shaft is LH threads (part number: 92015A in the above diagram).

i'm betting the kips governor is fubar. hopefully you broke it when you removed the cylinder. better fish out all the pieces and SUPPORT the shaft at reassembly.

Edit: don't forget to drain the oil when you take the clutch side out, or u'll have a mess on your hands
if you're careful you might be able to save the cover gasket

Thanks gentlemen!

Two more questions:
1. Service manual says something about the water pump shaft (chp 5; section 11). Anything I need to watch out for? Will it fall-out? Are there special considerations I need to make for this part so I don't damage?

2. Related/unrelated: the four bolts for to tighten the cylinder - 18 ft lbs. How do you guys get a torque wrench in such a tight space to get a reading? Is there a torque wrench out there that's like a box-wrench?

Insights would be appreciated!

Motion-Pro makes an adaptor for that.....

luckymick wrote:Thanks gentlemen!

Two more questions:
1. Service manual says something about the water pump shaft (chp 5; section 11). Anything I need to watch out for? Will it fall-out? Are there special considerations I need to make for this part so I don't damage?

2. Related/unrelated: the four bolts for to tighten the cylinder - 18 ft lbs. How do you guys get a torque wrench in such a tight space to get a reading? Is there a torque wrench out there that's like a box-wrench?

Insights would be appreciated!

For number 1:

I don't believe you will have any trouble with the water pump/shaft. However, you do need to watch out for a few things when cracking that cover. A huge one for me was the kickstarter and shifter spring. I actually had to remove that side cover TWICE because the shifter had no return recoil. On top of those two, the spring-loaded mechanism in which the KIPS governor shaft resets (the piece you probably broke) will easily fall out as it's just floating in its bearing.


For number 2;

I've used a normal box wrench with a socket welded on the end. The adapter Inda is referring to is exactly the same thing.

However, this time around I couldn't find my adapter so I did it by touch. 18-20ftlbs is pretty easy to feel.



-Brian

Indawoods - Motion Pro. Completely forgot about them! Great recommendation!

Brian - thanks so much for the insights!
For question 1: Should I have the bike leaning at a slight angle to prevent the springs from falling out

Question 2. When I took those bolts off - I'd be surprised it was 18 ft lbs from the factory (it was obvious the cylinder had never been opened). I couldn't, with a 5" box wrench, take the bolts off. Had to hit the box wrench with a rubber mallet to loosen; then use my strength to take them off.

My touch method is: firm tightening and a "tap" from the rubber mallet for a 1/8th - 1/4 turn. Too tight you think?

Thanks - Mike

luckymick wrote:Indawoods - Motion Pro. Completely forgot about them! Great recommendation!

Brian - thanks so much for the insights!
For question 1: Should I have the bike leaning at a slight angle to prevent the springs from falling out

Question 2. When I took those bolts off - I'd be surprised it was 18 ft lbs from the factory (it was obvious the cylinder had never been opened). I couldn't, with a 5" box wrench, take the bolts off. Had to hit the box wrench with a rubber mallet to loosen; then use my strength to take them off.

My touch method is: firm tightening and a "tap" from the rubber mallet for a 1/8th - 1/4 turn. Too tight you think?

Thanks - Mike

It might be a good idea to have the bike leaning if you can do it securely. Leaning on the kickstand should be plenty. The lean is also good when cleaning the mating surfaces of oil (use some kind of carb cleaner,.. I use B12 Chemtool).


"My touch method is: firm tightening and a "tap" from the rubber mallet for a 1/8th - 1/4 turn. Too tight you think?" This should be fine as long as you do it evenly in a criss-cross pattern.


BTW,.. your engine looks like it's never been fired... Are you sure it needs a top-end, or is that after the rebuild?

a case of 220 paranoia?

I suppose you think this is a hoax?

It is a reality, and if you have a 220 with a stock piston in it, you would be well advised to replace it with a Wiseco piston ASAP.

Brian,

Always criss-cross pattern!!!

Thank you for the compliements on the casing. I figure the bike had between 8 - 20 hours on it. I'll post a pict of the piston when I get home tonight. Little to no wear. I wiped the oil from the KIPS valves and they looked new.

It's my belief the original owner took it out, laid it down and gave up on riding.

As for "220 paranoia" I tend to agree. Although I did my research and I value Indawoods extensive experience. We ride out in Randsburg/Spangler Hills, Ca. I take my family on 60 mile treks in to the desert. Would hate for a piston to go-south on me in the middle of nowhere. Cheap insurance if you ask me.

I purchase the newest looking (used) bikes I can find. Still, I go through the carb, replace air filters, change oil, flush radiators, inspect all rubber (tires/pipes, etc), put on better bars and handguards.

Well tuned, clean, fully featured bike makes motorcycle trips so much more pleasant!

Mike

Forgot to add: I cleaned the cr@p out of that engine/casing

Sprayed with WD40, wiped with a micro-fiber cloth, washed with soap and water, wiped w/ micro-fiber cloth. WD40 as a final coating.

The bike was washed, with a pressure washer, before I stripped down the bike for the piston change.

The case was actually quite dirty; one of the exhaust o-rings had crack/broke (age?) and it would leak oil until warmed up.

So this is the bike before the new handlebars/grips/handguards:



it was 12 hunny as someone said in another thread! With all the parts, oils, odd/ends I figure I'm 15 hunny into it so far (now add the parts for the exhaust actuator :( )


The tear-down:



Piston:

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luckymick wrote:So this is the bike before the new handlebars/grips/handguards:



it was 12 hunny as someone said in another thread! With all the parts, oils, odd/ends I figure I'm 15 hunny into it so far (now add the parts for the exhaust actuator :( )


The tear-down:



Piston:

I like seeing the progress :) more photos!

Ok - took the right case off. Struggled with the clutch cable a bit. Finally had to take the lever off (manual implies you can leave the cable seated in the lever...).



Found my problem (red circle). Bent the LEVER-COMP,GOVERNOR, Part: 13236-1260. I assume when I purchase a new one that the "Pin" on the the Governor Lever will rest on the 'disc' below the white plastic sprocket (blue arrow)?