1993 kdx 200 kips

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tydev95
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1993 kdx 200 kips

Post by tydev95 »

i have a 1993 kdx 200. when i took the kips cover off, i found that the little silver piece that you can see that's in the engine moves around freely, and isn't connected to anything. everything under the cover is covered in black spooge. if the kips valves are broken, could i ride the bike without them? if i do fix it, i only have $150 to spend.
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Julien D
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Post by Julien D »

Pull the pipe off, and observe the valves through the exhaust when you move the rod by hand. The rod being under the RH plastic cover on the cylinder. What moves, and what doesn't?

You can about get your subvalves for that, and they are usually the only thing to break. The bike runs MUCH better with them working.
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BobbyZ
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Post by BobbyZ »

Be WARNED the nut on the shaft is LEFT hand threads and also a pic would be great to let us see what you're dealing with.As far as cost goes I recently picked up a used cylinder for my bike from ebay for $60usd,granted its plating is trash but all the kips parts where there.
tydev95
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Post by tydev95 »

ok, but i recently found another problem. when i took off the flywheel cover, there was a small puddle of milky colored oil. what should i do?
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Post by JimmyB »

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tydev95 wrote:ok, but i recently found another problem. when i took off the flywheel cover, there was a small puddle of milky colored oil. what should i do?
Small amounts of oil under the ignition cover was a problem on the E series KDXs.
Your bike is getting up there in age and could be bearings and seals but the most common problem was during warm up oil migrating out between the steel bearing holder that is cast in the case and the case itself.If you are able to remove the flywheel,you need a puller,look at the area around the seal,you will see 3 slots cast around the seal,when kawasaki made the castings the steel bearing holder was either exposed or the aluminum is very thin,you should be able to see the steel holder.Fix is very easy,scrap any loose aluminum away,clean the area very well with contact/parts cleaner and with the bike laying on its side fill the slots with JB weld.
tydev95
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Post by tydev95 »

should i do this first, or replace the main bearings and seals?
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Post by bmiller »

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BobbyZ wrote:Be WARNED the nut on the shaft is LEFT hand threads and also a pic would be great to let us see what you're dealing with.As far as cost goes I recently picked up a used cylinder for my bike from ebay for $60usd,granted its plating is trash but all the kips parts where there.
+1

I broke mine............had to replace the shaft, nut, actuator, remove the engine cover twice because I forgot to put the shifter spring back in the correct location the first time.

What a huge oversight on my part for the LH threads,... damn that sucked.
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Post by JimmyB »

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tydev95 wrote:should i do this first, or replace the main bearings and seals?
Have you noticed oil under the cover before??
If you look carefully at the seal area,see if you can tell where the oil might be coming from,if the oil seal looks wet right around the crankshaft most likely it is seals,will usually be at the lower area/face of the seal,if the seal is dry and oil can be seen at the slots it is from there.The slots are a cheap and easy fix,seals and bearings require a complete motor tear down,I would be tempted to do the JB weld first and see if this solves the problem,this was a very common problem with this series bike as well as the earlier KX125.
If you can have a leak down test done this will tell you if the seals are going/gone.
If you can post up some pictures I might be able to tell you where the oil is coming from,a few different angle shots.
Sorry I can't find any links/pictures on this site that showed the problem area,anybody???

James..
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