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What is the recommended break-in procedure for a fresh top-end on a KDX 200? Would 40:1 motul 800 work ok?

You will find different opinions on this. On my last two I used a synthetic at 40:1 and did the heat cycle method.

I did about 5-6 cycles and gradually worked my way up to full throttle. Both engines have great power and seem fine.

what's the heat cycle method? google shows me how to burn in an RC nitro car.

I've been doing the 'ride it like you stole it' method and haven't had any problems. I make sure the engine has warmed up properly before doing so.

I just use the same oil and ratio that I'd normally run for break in.

Ride it HARD! You will feel the rings seat!

Indawoods wrote:Ride it HARD! You will feel the rings seat!

+1
dats wat i did on my last 3 rebuild, so far no issue

I never use synthetic on anything on a break in its too slick.best to use a dino oil and id run it a little rich and ride it varying the speeds and rpms but just don't go full throttle.

wow,.. talk about diversity...


At least nobody said they've seized from any particular break-in method.

The heat cycle method is:

Start bike and run it until cylinder feels warm.
Shut it down and let it completely cool
Start bike and run it until cylinder feels warm.
Shut it down and let it completely cool
Start bike and run it until cylinder is hot.
Shut it down and let it completely cool
...

You get the idea.

basically just dont overrev/overwork/overheat the engine at the start. you need to warm it up then go for a 15mins ride, let it cool down and repeat this for 3 times and you are ready to full bore the bike.

I will just use normal fully syntheic 2T oil. motul800 seems thick.

you can find a detail running in procedure from justkdx.com

I only let it sit and run the first cycle. After that I rode it and added more throttle each cycle. I probably did 5-6 cycles before I was doing full throttle runs. I learned it form my RC cars.

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scheckaet wrote:>|<>QBB<

Indawoods wrote:Ride it HARD! :wink: You will feel the rings seat! :supz:

+1
dats wat i did on my last 3 rebuild, so far no issue

+1 more
Just ride it don't be afraid! :grin:

My recipe, FWIW...

First tank was Dino oil, warmed up 10 minutes at varying rpms nothing crazy just little blips here and there. Rads warm to hot.

Went for a 10 minute ride on the streets getting on the pipe only slightly. Put it away for the night.

Took it to the trails, 10 minute warm up routine. Then RODE IT LIKE I STOLE IT.

So about 30 minutes of babying and full on after that. Kind of a hybrid approach to the break-in methods.

Synthetic oil there on out.

I bet you could just start it, warm it up, and then ride like normal and it would be fine.

I bet you could just start it, warm it up, and then ride like normal and it would be fine.

That is what I usually do. It won't want to rev out cleanly at first, I guess because the motor is too tight or the rings aren't sealed in or something. I'll bump against that "rev limiter" a bit here and there. After 15 minutes or so it'll clean up and go like stink.

I guess I use the " rode it like you stole it" aproach

Ipaman wrote:I bet you could just start it, warm it up, and then ride like normal and it would be fine.

The rings would never seat if you did that...

I wasn't saying I was going to do it.

I learned it form my RC cars.

These engines actually have to 'break-in' as there are no rings and the aluminum piston-brass sleeve is a matched set just tight enought to move, and loose enough that it will 'break-in.' Break in on a modern, accurately clearanced, precision motor is simply ring-seat. Nothing needs to break in except the rings. I 2nd inda on the ride it like you stole it...It's been proven too many times to provide superior ring-seal, compression(power), and longevity...key in the process is that the rings must be under load to seat the best possible way. I also 2nd the use of non-synthetic during break-in as the synth prevents wear IE increases time for rings to seat. Inda is right you can feel it....When they seat, you are done....Howver I'll keep riding until my 1/2gal-1gal of break-in gas I used starts to run out. Ride it hard, and also vary RPM range motor is getting flogged.

Dang. I basically did everything opposite you said. LOL I used synthetic and I rode it lightly at first. Seems to pull really well though. I will probably replace the rings before next summer and try it like you said.

fuzzy wrote:

I learned it form my RC cars.

These engines actually have to 'break-in' as there are no rings and the aluminum piston-brass sleeve is a matched set just tight enought to move, and loose enough that it will 'break-in.' Break in on a modern, accurately clearanced, precision motor is simply ring-seat. Nothing needs to break in except the rings. I 2nd inda on the ride it like you stole it...It's been proven too many times to provide superior ring-seal, compression(power), and longevity...key in the process is that the rings must be under load to seat the best possible way. I also 2nd the use of non-synthetic during break-in as the synth prevents wear IE increases time for rings to seat. Inda is right you can feel it....When they seat, you are done....Howver I'll keep riding until my 1/2gal-1gal of break-in gas I used starts to run out. Ride it hard, and also vary RPM range motor is getting flogged.

Interesting. Any recommendations on what pre-mix oil and ratio to use during and after break-in?