Howling noise?

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Postby rbates9 » 04:35 pm Oct 01 2010

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KarlP wrote:
You can only hear it under a load and during acceleration.


I'm trying to picture using a stethoscope under these conditions.

Thanks for the opportunity to offer a usefull comment :lol:

Thats what I was thinking. :partyman:
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Postby Ipaman » 07:27 am Oct 04 2010

Did you ever figure this out? I am curious what the issue was.
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Postby rbates9 » 03:29 pm Oct 04 2010

Not yet but it got worse on the last ride. It will make the noise all the time now. More so during acceleration still but now you can hear it in neutral. pulling the clutch in dose make it go away some. I'm thinkin it is time to give it a good bath and do some investigative surgery. :sad:
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Postby rbates9 » 06:47 pm Oct 04 2010

So, I was just out in the garage and pulled the clutch because it had gotten to the point where at an idle you can hear the noise a little and when you start to pull the clutch just past the free play it goes away. The clutch looks brand new! The metal disks don't even look like they are seated in all the way yet! :? :shock: The input shaft has a very little bit of up and down play in it, but it slids in and out about 3/16". Don't know if that is normal or not? I had just changed the oil before the last ride and it had a fare amount of sparkleys in it for only about 3-4 hours of ridding when I had dumped it tonight. I'm thinking about pulling the cylinder next. I don't think it has ever been off in the 10 years of it's life so it wouldn't hurt any way. Mabe I'll get lucky in there and find a bad wrist pin bearing. :hmm: :please:
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Postby Mr. Wibbens » 07:28 pm Oct 04 2010

Mine was making a howling noise awhile back

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Postby rbates9 » 08:40 pm Oct 04 2010

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Mr. Wibbens wrote:Mine was making a howling noise awhile back

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Thats what I'm afraid of. The top looks great unfortunately. Guna have to go in deeper tomorrow. What shaft and bearing was that on yours? :doh:
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Postby rbates9 » 09:14 pm Oct 04 2010

Any advise on splitting the case with out the "case splitting tool"?
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Postby Mr. Wibbens » 09:27 pm Oct 04 2010

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rbates9 wrote:Any advise on splitting the case with out the "case splitting tool"?


borrow one. Mine would have never come apart without it
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Postby rbates9 » 01:22 pm Oct 05 2010

Would love to but no one I know has one.
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Postby Mr. Wibbens » 01:44 pm Oct 05 2010

Put a want ad in Craigs List, I bet someone has one you can borrow

I put an ad in CL and one on Facebook. I got 3 replies on CL and one reply on FB within a day

Everyone told me it could be done without a splitter. But there aint no friggin way mine would have come apart without it. It sounded like a friggin gun going off when it finally separated!!
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Postby rbates9 » 04:16 pm Oct 05 2010

Thanks for the words of encouragement. :please: I have also heard that you don't need one, so I'll give it a try and see if it comes apart easy and if not I will look into finding one.
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Postby Mr. Wibbens » 04:25 pm Oct 05 2010

Just don't be sticking screwdrivers in there thinking you can be careful :wink:
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Postby rbates9 » 07:55 pm Oct 05 2010

NO, that never ends well. I got the engine out tonight and started to tear it down. still waiting on the flywheel puller i ordered to come in and found that the bearing that the KIPS governor rides on is pretty rough sounding. That would make sense that when it started it was a higher RPM noise. I'm still going to split the case to see what is going on inside.
I was looking at the book and it looks like the case splitter is just a H bar puller that I have. :partyman:
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Postby Mr. Wibbens » 01:12 am Oct 06 2010

Here's what I used

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Hope you did not order the splitter from Tusk, it won't work on a KDX
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Postby gregp » 08:25 am Oct 06 2010

If you are going that far, as to split the cases, you may as well do a complete lower end rebuild with crank bearings/seals, and a rod kit. I know it costs some money, but you will know that you will be good for the next 5-10 years or so.
Just my opinion.
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Postby rbates9 » 10:32 am Oct 06 2010

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gregp wrote:If you are going that far, as to split the cases, you may as well do a complete lower end rebuild with crank bearings/seals, and a rod kit. I know it costs some money, but you will know that you will be good for the next 5-10 years or so.
Just my opinion.

Agreed! But, it would have been nice to at least get another month or so of ridding before it gets cold out.
The guy I had bought it off had said that it was barely ridden (I know that is the line you use when ever you try to sell something) But the inside dose look real good so far. But if it sat long enough the bearings could have started to rust up.
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Postby rbates9 » 10:37 am Oct 06 2010

Mr. Wibbens,
Do you have to use ICEHOUSE or is that just a suggestion? :lol:
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Postby Indawoods » 11:32 am Oct 06 2010

It's a requirement! :partyman:
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Postby rbates9 » 02:07 pm Oct 06 2010

I'll have to pick some up. :partyman:
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Postby rbates9 » 07:25 pm Oct 07 2010

Got it apart tonight. The governor bearing, crank bearings and one other bearing sound like they have gravel in them. other than that the rest is great.
I did end up having to use a puller to get the case apart, the crank bearings were set in pretty good.

The only thing that I am curious about is where the metal was coming from. Every thing looks good, no excessive play or odd wear? The world may never know.

So, some gaskets, seals, bearings, time.......And oh ya MONEY and she will be back to good.

Could any one tell me for sure what side the KIPS valve with the grove goes on? When I took them apart I kept them separated and when I looked in the book it said that they were opposite from what I had? The engine has never been apart unless the last guy had some secret to get gaskets off with out leaving any marks, or any marks on the bolts. :partyman: :grin:
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