Howling noise?
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Neat, that you found it before it grenaded. I know a lot of folks who would have just kept running that motor until it was too late. What year is your bike? Just curious.
I would still replace the rod and lower end bearing (probably do the piston, rings, and top end bearing/pin as well) while I was in there. If your crank bearings were subjected to debris, the rod bearing was as well. If they just plain wore out, the rod bearing is worn out also (or very close).
KDX's are some of the most reliable and rugged dirt bike engines made, but even they do not last forever.
My '04 was purchased used, and it runs great, but because I do not know the history, I will most likely do a full upper and lower end rebuild soon.
I would still replace the rod and lower end bearing (probably do the piston, rings, and top end bearing/pin as well) while I was in there. If your crank bearings were subjected to debris, the rod bearing was as well. If they just plain wore out, the rod bearing is worn out also (or very close).
KDX's are some of the most reliable and rugged dirt bike engines made, but even they do not last forever.
My '04 was purchased used, and it runs great, but because I do not know the history, I will most likely do a full upper and lower end rebuild soon.
2004 Dual Sported KDX200
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
- rbates9
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I'm sure someone else here will confirm, but I had the same experience. The book had 'em backwards.Could any one tell me for sure what side the KIPS valve with the grove goes on? When I took them apart I kept them separated and when I looked in the book it said that they were opposite from what I had? The engine has never been apart unless the last guy had some secret to get gaskets off with out leaving any marks, or any marks on the bolts
'08 KTM200xc
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
- scheckaet
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yup the book is wrong. if you assemble them that way you'll clearly see something isn't right.
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
- rbates9
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Thanks for the info! that would suck to get it all back together and find that they were in wrong. Is there any other wrong info in the book that any body has found?
I was just doing some shopping for the parts to get an idea of what I am looking at for money and found a good web site.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com ... sakiDB.asp
Has any body used these people? There prices seem to be pretty good.
I was just doing some shopping for the parts to get an idea of what I am looking at for money and found a good web site.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com ... sakiDB.asp
Has any body used these people? There prices seem to be pretty good.
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You can get less expensive "kits" from BikeBandit. Rocky Mountain ATV, Dennis Kirk, or other places for the crank bearings/seals, and the rod. Both Wiseco and Hotrods sell a rod kit. I think All Balls and Pivot Works might sell the crank kit for less than OEM prices.
I have never used the site you listed.
I have never used the site you listed.
2004 Dual Sported KDX200
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
- rbates9
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- rbates9
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- rbates9
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I spent about $170 for a new rod kit and it being installed. Total for the job was about $350 for ALL the bearings in the engine, gasket set, and having the crank split and a new rod and bearings put in. I would have more rather put it into some RB mods or a Delta cage but there is no since putting power parts in a weak motor.gregp wrote:I used to able to get my rod kits installed for around $50. That is probably up to $75 or more now.
Just an added kick in the nuts, after the ride on sunday the front wheel bearings decided to go.
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$170 is probably about right, for the kit and installation, these days. The kit costs almost $80 or so, so another $80 or so for labor is probably the going rate. I have not had to do a rod job in a long time, but I am considering rebuilding the crank on my current KDX when I do the top end next time, just as a preventive measure.
I installed one myself, once, on a KTM 125. It was tough, requiring heat, a custom jig, and lots of sweat, but the bike ran fine when I was done. Trueing it was the tough part, using a lathe to hold the crank, and a big plastic hammer to tap one half into alignment (using a dial indicator). I would not do that again, though.
Some crank jobs come out better than others, in regards to alignment.
I installed one myself, once, on a KTM 125. It was tough, requiring heat, a custom jig, and lots of sweat, but the bike ran fine when I was done. Trueing it was the tough part, using a lathe to hold the crank, and a big plastic hammer to tap one half into alignment (using a dial indicator). I would not do that again, though.
Some crank jobs come out better than others, in regards to alignment.
2004 Dual Sported KDX200
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
- rbates9
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