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Postby gregp » 06:56 am Oct 08 2010

Neat, that you found it before it grenaded. I know a lot of folks who would have just kept running that motor until it was too late. What year is your bike? Just curious.
I would still replace the rod and lower end bearing (probably do the piston, rings, and top end bearing/pin as well) while I was in there. If your crank bearings were subjected to debris, the rod bearing was as well. If they just plain wore out, the rod bearing is worn out also (or very close).
KDX's are some of the most reliable and rugged dirt bike engines made, but even they do not last forever.
My '04 was purchased used, and it runs great, but because I do not know the history, I will most likely do a full upper and lower end rebuild soon.
2004 Dual Sported KDX200
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
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Postby rbates9 » 08:05 am Oct 08 2010

Mine is a 2000. If what I was told is true it had sat for a few years before I got it. Sitting isn't good for anything, things dry up and start to rust. I still have to get some prices on parts to see how much the check book can do, I would like to do everything but we'll see.
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Postby KarlP » 11:02 am Oct 08 2010

Could any one tell me for sure what side the KIPS valve with the grove goes on? When I took them apart I kept them separated and when I looked in the book it said that they were opposite from what I had? The engine has never been apart unless the last guy had some secret to get gaskets off with out leaving any marks, or any marks on the bolts


I'm sure someone else here will confirm, but I had the same experience. The book had 'em backwards.
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Postby bmiller » 11:25 am Oct 08 2010

You can clearly see by looking into the exhaust port when turning the governor shaft.
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Postby scheckaet » 12:55 pm Oct 08 2010

yup the book is wrong. if you assemble them that way you'll clearly see something isn't right.
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Postby rbates9 » 01:18 pm Oct 08 2010

Thanks for the info! that would suck to get it all back together and find that they were in wrong. Is there any other wrong info in the book that any body has found?

I was just doing some shopping for the parts to get an idea of what I am looking at for money and found a good web site.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com ... sakiDB.asp

Has any body used these people? There prices seem to be pretty good.
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Postby gregp » 01:48 pm Oct 08 2010

You can get less expensive "kits" from BikeBandit. Rocky Mountain ATV, Dennis Kirk, or other places for the crank bearings/seals, and the rod. Both Wiseco and Hotrods sell a rod kit. I think All Balls and Pivot Works might sell the crank kit for less than OEM prices.
I have never used the site you listed.
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Postby rbates9 » 01:59 pm Oct 08 2010

I was shopping for the transmission bearings and pieces. I am going to do EVERYTHING just so I wont have to do any of it again. (At least for a good long time.) The rod kits and crank bearings are all that I have been able to find in the aftermarket.
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Postby rbates9 » 05:55 pm Oct 13 2010

I ordered more parts today. Just out of curiosity about how much dose it usually cost to have a connecting rod replaced? I'm just trying to feel out my local guy, sometimes when I go in it seems too cheap and other times I kind of feel like I'm getting screwed.
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Postby rbates9 » 04:59 pm Oct 25 2010

All done! I got all my parts Wendsday and had it running Friday night. I took it out for a ride on Sunday and all is well. :partyman: :lol:
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Postby gregp » 09:22 am Oct 26 2010

I used to able to get my rod kits installed for around $50. That is probably up to $75 or more now.
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Postby bmiller » 09:54 am Oct 26 2010

>|<>QBB<
scheckaet wrote:yup the book is wrong. if you assemble them that way you'll clearly see something isn't right.


Which book had it wrong? My 2000 KDX 200 service manual appears to be correct. The o-ring shaft and grooved valve goes on the right side (with exhaust port facing away).
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Postby KarlP » 01:05 pm Oct 26 2010

The o-ring shaft and grooved valve goes on the right side (with exhaust port facing away).


That is correct. Your book is right.
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Postby rbates9 » 05:00 pm Oct 26 2010

>|<>QBB<
gregp wrote:I used to able to get my rod kits installed for around $50. That is probably up to $75 or more now.


I spent about $170 for a new rod kit and it being installed. Total for the job was about $350 for ALL the bearings in the engine, gasket set, and having the crank split and a new rod and bearings put in. I would have more rather put it into some RB mods or a Delta cage but there is no since putting power parts in a weak motor. :sad:

Just an added kick in the nuts, after the ride on sunday the front wheel bearings decided to go. :doh:
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Postby rbates9 » 05:01 pm Oct 26 2010

>|<>QBB<
KarlP wrote:
The o-ring shaft and grooved valve goes on the right side (with exhaust port facing away).


That is correct. Your book is right.


The book I have was from 97
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Postby gregp » 06:46 am Oct 27 2010

$170 is probably about right, for the kit and installation, these days. The kit costs almost $80 or so, so another $80 or so for labor is probably the going rate. I have not had to do a rod job in a long time, but I am considering rebuilding the crank on my current KDX when I do the top end next time, just as a preventive measure.
I installed one myself, once, on a KTM 125. It was tough, requiring heat, a custom jig, and lots of sweat, but the bike ran fine when I was done. Trueing it was the tough part, using a lathe to hold the crank, and a big plastic hammer to tap one half into alignment (using a dial indicator). I would not do that again, though.
Some crank jobs come out better than others, in regards to alignment.
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Postby rbates9 » 04:01 pm Oct 27 2010

The one I had done came out great, very true and square. The whole part about needing jigs and tooling to do a job once made me think it's not worth screwing around with my self, just pay the money and be done with it.
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