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JUST BOUGHT A KDX! NEED TIPS!!!!

Posted: 01:06 am Aug 25 2010
by lowrider_cutlass
Okay first and foremost, i just bought a 2002 KDX220R.. the first thing im wondering is what is different about the R model ??? next, the bike is all stock, what would be an ideal fuel mixture ratio for me to use, im at 650ft sea level...

Posted: 05:53 am Aug 25 2010
by Julien D
32:1, or jet it and run 40:1 / 50:1 as you like.

R is just how it is. The 220 was always an "R" as far as I know. Most important tip is yank the stock piston out if it's still in there, and replace with a Wiseco. Could save you some serious money on down the road.

Posted: 01:35 pm Aug 25 2010
by lowrider_cutlass
i keep hearing about this stock piston "grenade" ... it sucks because i dont even know what piston is currently in the bike if its the stock one or if its been changed... i'll definately look into this...

also, who can suggest the right tire pressure for me? im running knobbies, 75% street and 25% dirt... lol yes i know i need to change to a different set of tires to suit my riding style, but in the meantime, what is the safest setting front n rear ???
thanks!

Posted: 02:02 pm Aug 25 2010
by scheckaet
any dual sport tire would work.
I used to run knobbies on my 100 % street 125 kdx, a long time ago. It works, just have to be a little cautious in corners...

Posted: 07:44 pm Aug 25 2010
by rbates9
Air pressure has got a lot to do with what you are riding on. If it is a lot of rocks go high (15-20psi) If it is mud go low (8-15 psi). Another thing is the brand, some need a higher psi to get the same results as another brand. Before anyone starts arguing these numbers are just examples, not facts. But for your question I would start a little higher than what you think and if grip is an issue let some air out, if you can feel the rims hitting put some more back in. It wouldn't hurt to use a tire pressure gauge to do this so you know where it was working good. Again, just an opinion no facts were intended or implied. :lol:

Posted: 08:02 pm Aug 25 2010
by Indawoods
You're no fun.... :roll:

Posted: 08:03 pm Aug 25 2010
by rbates9
Sorry if I covered my ass a little to much. :lol:

Posted: 08:29 pm Aug 25 2010
by lowrider_cutlass
lol thanks for the help guys :cool:

Posted: 09:50 pm Aug 25 2010
by jlove1974
first thing you want to do is ditch the choked-off 33mm carb. Either get a carb from a 200, which is 35mm OR do the deal and get a RB Designs bored carb. The head mod is good for the 220 especially.
A desert-style pipe on the 200 is a better torque pipe on the 220R.

Other than that, tuning and jetting ;)

Posted: 01:17 am Aug 26 2010
by lowrider_cutlass
basically im worried about the bike not being fast enough top end.. im most definately going to be using this bike on the street alot, after all, its plated so why not?! to me theres just something about riding a 2stroke on the street that just feels like youre doing something you're not supposed to be doing lol ... so what kinds of mods can i do to get this thing faster on the top speeds for those long stretches of pavement?

Posted: 03:28 am Aug 26 2010
by Velocity_Stack
Change your sprockets, 15 tooth front and 45 tooth rear.

Posted: 06:19 am Aug 26 2010
by jlove1974
>|<>QBB<
lowrider_cutlass wrote:basically im worried about the bike not being fast enough top end.. im most definately going to be using this bike on the street alot, after all, its plated so why not?! to me theres just something about riding a 2stroke on the street that just feels like youre doing something you're not supposed to be doing lol ... so what kinds of mods can i do to get this thing faster on the top speeds for those long stretches of pavement?
Um, did you read my post? If not I quoted it....

The 220R = torque bike for woods riding. It takes a bit of work for it to run like a MX250 bike....

Posted: 06:24 am Aug 26 2010
by Julien D
more than a "bit of work". It will never run like a 250 2t MX bike. That said, I've pulled 75mph for extended periods on my 89 200, no problem.

Posted: 06:48 am Aug 26 2010
by KarlP
I think the stock gearing is fine all around on the 220. Maybe down a tooth or two on the rear after carefulll tuning/RBD head.
The chassis is not very happy at speed on the road, to me anyway. In fact, it ain't very happy over about 35 mph anywhere, especially not if setup to handle slower trail work well.

Tire pressure is critical to handling and traction. I run 7.5 to 8 psi front and rear for my terrain. Amost everybody I know runs 10 minimum and usually more. They like to talk about pinch flats. Having never gotten one, I don't get it. I look for a narrow band of shiny rim right next to the bead. That tells me the tire is flexing and conforming.

The OP asked about first things he ought to do. I'd suggest:
Grease the linkages and steering stem.
Set the frame geometry - Sag and springs and fork height and so on....
Check out the piston
Send the head to RBD. $45 well spent
Jetting, Jetting, Jetting
Then start spending money :supz: