Air Striker vs. OEM Carb Modding

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Mark W
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Air Striker vs. OEM Carb Modding

Post by Mark W »

I did search for this in prior posts (and could have missed it) but can't find a specific answer. What is the difference to a KDX220R (2002) that an Air Striker carb would make verses just having Ron modify the OEM carb that came with the bike? Benefits, disadvantages, etc...?

Does Ron change out the current needle to something better for the set-up (if so, what is it changed to)? Can you request other needles verses what may come standard with his carbs?

With a set budget, would it be better to buy the A.S or to have Ron shave the head and get the current carb modded?

As always, thanks for the help.

Mark
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

The differences between the two carbs: Not a whole lot. There are some airfoils on the intake bell of the air striker that are designed to intensify the signal to the jet block. The jetblock heighth is different between the two (Ron changes that).

I've used both..an RBD modified oem PWK and an RBD modified air striker. The latter surpasses the former in the throttle response category. IMO.

Keihin supposedly has said the air striker is easier to jet...a current jet-set is effective over a broader range of conditions.

..don't know about that part myself.

Re: Does Ron change out...

Yes. What to? Best to ask him what his favorite flavor is right now. He has liked CEK/DEKs in the fairly recent past.

Re: Can you request...

Sure. Anything you want. Be sure to tell him what you need environ-wise. How he jets your carb will depend on where you ride. Buy a few different profiles at the same time if you want to experiment. Will save you some shipping $$ later.

Re: Budget

That's pretty much up to you. If you buy a different carb, the oem carb is something you could sell to offset the cost of the new carb. Sure...the air striker costs considerably more, but selling the old carb may make it worth it.

If it's strictly a $$ deal, modifying your oem carb certainly costs less. Ron's turnaround time can normally be figured almost in minutes. Your carb isn't going to disappear for a couple of weeks....or months.

DO contact him before you send it in. Depending on his workload/schedule you may save yourself some downtime if he knows what's coming.

Re: shave the head

Be clear on what you're getting. Ron does not 'shave the head.' That infers that the only thing going on is having metal removed from the mating surface. He makes considerable changes to the squish band..in angle and size. That's where the men are separated from the boys. 'Take a little off..' the bottom doesn't get the job done.

Mr. Black is very gratious when it comes to answering questions about this-n-that. Give him a call. Do keep in mind that when he's talkin' to you, he's not working on someone else's stuff. I'm sure you know some guys that will talk the ears off'a someone...with no intention of ever getting a $'s worth of services/parts from them.

We don't like those guys...right? :wink:

Hope some of this is helpful. Ask away if you have other questions. Between all the rabid KDX fans on this board, someone will either know the answer...or will be able to ramble on incessantly to no particular end....................... :roll:

Cheers!

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Mark W
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Post by Mark W »

Thanks CC. I thought I would ask here first rather than start with the posing the bare bones basic questions to Ron.

I did consider at one time sending my carb off to Ron prior to the season but then got delayed and now it is the middle of the season. I was told by Ron that to really make a difference with either carb, I need to buy a new pipe first. Not a problem to get the pipe, the carb and mod the head. Just have to pick a time to do so and determine what pipe to get - there are so many opinions.

mark
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

If 'new pipe' means replacing the stock pipe, that's a 'for sure!'.

The pipe choice for the 220 gets a bit iffy, seems to me (from what I've read anyway).

The 220 is generally agreed to have a good bit more bottom end than the 200, but is lacking considerably on the top end of things. Depending on whose opinion or whose ad you read you will get a considerably different idea of what pipe fits your needs for a 220. Heck, FmF even gets the profile names screwed up between the two KDXs. At times they have even stamped the different pipes with the wrong ID.

The choice of most 220 owners is the -30 (rev or 'desert') pipe. The effective power band of that pipe is considerably higher than the -35 (torque or 'woods') pipe.

Avoid the use of adjectives to define the pipe profile. A good number of riders have no clue what they are talking about when it comes to pipes. Saying, 'I have an FmF Gnarly pipe' doesn't mean anything when it comes to what profile is being used.

The -35 is smaller at the bell (where the con/diverging cones meet) than is the -30. Eleven and fourteen inches respectively if I recall correctly. If you need to know for sure, ask..I'll measure them again.

If you want more on the stump-pulling power end of things, the -35 is the choice for the 220. It's still going to be flat on top..really flat with the 33mm carb.

You should have plenty of bottom end to go around with a -30 on your 220. That will also give you more grin on the top end of things, too! :grin:

My 2-hunny with a -30 has all the bottom end you could ask for. I don't know why you would need a -35 on the 220. Lots of grunt! I'm not saying no one uses that pipe on a 220. Skipro does and likes it just fine!

The two pipes are considerably different is all. If you can swing it, buy 'em both and choose based on the seat of your own pants!

BTW...the -35 jets considerably more lean (-2 main) than the -30 does. Well...on my 200..according to me, anyway! :wink:


Consider sending in the cylinder head with the carb, especially if you ride at any elevation to speak of. Ron will reconfigure it...not so much from the added static compression point of view (although that, too) as a reconfigured squish band.

As long as you're not riding it...might as well kill two birds with one stone.

Be sure to tell Ron your elevation...and what fuel you are going to be using.

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