Fork Spring Installation

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MY KDX 220 R
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Joined: 11:35 pm Feb 25 2005
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Location: Collierville TN.

Fork Spring Installation

Post by MY KDX 220 R »

Can any one give me a step for step sequence for removing the std springs and installing FRP Racing.40's

If you have read my previouse post Tree Eating KDX, I apologize for no pic's - yes I do have some but seem to be totally illiterate as to the means of posting pic's on this site.

I found it entirely neccesary to invest in the following after my tree experience:
FMF: Desert - TC II
FRP Pipe guard.
Devol Rad' guards.
Fork and Rotor guard - UFO
New rad' shroud - UFO
Graphics.
Frame guards.
New h'Light assem'.
RB Airstriker on order.
Not much left for that ever so important shop manual.
So, if any one could oblige this priority defunct individual with the above,
he would be gratefull.
:prayer: :twisted:
KEEP IT REAL!!
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KDXer
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Post by KDXer »

http://www.dishers.com/index_Dirtbikes.html

Looks like a perfectly normal shopping list to me. :supz:

Stick the pics in your gallery, click on the picture to open it, then right click the picture, goto properties, copy its location eg. http://kdx.woodsrider.net/albums/KDXing ... .sized.jpg


AND then paste that into your post as an image eg. [**img]http://kdx.woodsrider.net/albums/KDXing ... .sized.jpg[/img**] (except for the **'s don't type them) and voila pic inserted... But don't tell anyone 'I' told ya... :lol:
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"I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather, not screaming in terror like the passengers in his car."
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canyncarvr
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Location: The Mythical State of Jefferson

Post by canyncarvr »

This is one click closer...depending on how defunct you actually are! ;)

http://www.dishers.com/hobbies/Repairs/

Click on 'Changing fork springs' at the top.

A couple of other notes:

There is a washer clipped to the bottom end of the oem spring. Make sure it comes out with the spring. If not, get it out of the bottom of the fork. If you are not the first person in the forks, it may have been left off. Not a good idea. Once you have it, securely clip it (bend the tabs) to the new spring.

Matt measured the oil. You're better off measuring the level of oil. The rule of thumb is 100mm from the top tube edge to the oil, spring out, fork compressed, rod pumped to remove any bubbles. Personally, I prefer 115mm or so. Get a large syringe from your local grange/feed store and some tightly fitting hose for the end. Measure the distance (level) you want, cut the hose to length. Overfill the tube, suck out the excess.

When you put the cap back on, it will feel a bit weird. Here's why. When you unscrewed the cap, you threaded the jam nut down the rod until it jammed against the unthreaded rod. Then the cap broke loose. When you put it back together, you will thread the cap onto the rod until it jams against the end of the rod...then it will take the same amount of force to unjam the rod nut that it took to loosen the cap in the first place. You will feel some resistance, the nut will let loose, then things will just seem to be going around and around...the nut is being threaded back up the rod. When the rod nut reaches the bottom of the cap is where the torque value needs to be set. It may well be a lesser amount of force than it took to get the rod nut unstuck in the first place.

Don't confuse preload mm with the mm of the preload spacer. Not the same thing. FRP has said the reuse of the oem spacer is OK. If that's your choice...fine. That's going to give you about 35mm of preload if the springs you're putting in are the same length as what you're taking out.

That seems silly to me. Some performance springs (my RaceTechs for example) specifically say that a preload of more than 12mm will void the spring warranty!

Ten mm of preload should be sufficient if the spring rate selection is correct.

With the spring in the tube (no oil yet), measure the distance from the top of the spring to the bottom of the completely threaded on cap. For argument's sake, say you measure 30mm. The flanges of the two cupped washers you will put in with the preload spacer measure 3mm (double check that if you wish). If you want 10mm of spring preload, the length of the spacer (cut from the PVC that should have come with the springs..if not, get yourself a bit of schedule-40 1" pipe) needed is 37mm.

Tighten the top cap by holding the cap and turning the tube. That will eliminate spring torsion that can cause some clicking noise after you get it back together.

BTW...before you put the tubes back in...Now is a good time to check the steering bearings. Move the bottom clamp lock-to-lock. Feel any 'snicks' or bumps? If you do, the bottom bearing is shot. It is possible (if the damage isn't too bad) to remove the stem, clean and repack the bottom bearing, remove the race from the tube and replace it in a different (probably 90º off) position from what it was. You will easily see wear on the outer race if there is any.

Use caution on that front axle clamp!! The torque spec is 86in/lb (that's from my forever failing, insufficient and faulty memory!!). Attack those studs with 20ft/lb and you're going to break 'em off. No gap at the top of the cap...gap at the bottom, so you don't cross-tighten them.

Front axle: 65ft/lb.

Hey!! When you put the cap on the rod...don't hold the rod nut with a box-end wrench! :rolleyes:

...just checking the defunct-o-meter!

Have fun! If you're changing from the oem springs..and .40s are the correct rate for you, you're going to notice a huge improvement!!

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Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
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