stock fork setup. Help please...
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stock fork setup. Help please...
Hi, I just bought the 0.38 spring rate fork spring from FRP. it comes with a PVC tube for the spacer.
I am 160lbs with load. I plan to use 7.5wt oil but not sure what oil level to set. any recommendation?
anyone can also post a pic which is the OEM metal spacer? metal washer? I am really confused with the explaination on the setting of preload in some of the thread. anyone can help with some pictures or drawing explanations?
thank you some much if any can help.
I am 160lbs with load. I plan to use 7.5wt oil but not sure what oil level to set. any recommendation?
anyone can also post a pic which is the OEM metal spacer? metal washer? I am really confused with the explaination on the setting of preload in some of the thread. anyone can help with some pictures or drawing explanations?
thank you some much if any can help.
A true KDX customizer!!
- Indawoods
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When you remove your old springs... make sure that there is a clipped on washer on the bottom of the springs. If there is not... you will have to go fishing for them and then attach them to the bottom of your new springs.
Oil level should be between 90 and 110mm I believe. This measurement is taken with the forks colapsed and springs removed. It is measured from the top and this is the free space that the oil does not take up. You will have to add oil and pump the rod to get all the air out of the system. You will know when it becomes hard to pump.
The metal spacer it the metal tube sitting on top of each spring when you remove the caps. You will have to cut new ones for the new springs because the springs are not the same length. Instead of the crazy preload that Kawasaki gives the forks, you will only want about 5mm - 8mm of preload on the springs.
Once you get to that point... post again. I am tired of typing!
Oil level should be between 90 and 110mm I believe. This measurement is taken with the forks colapsed and springs removed. It is measured from the top and this is the free space that the oil does not take up. You will have to add oil and pump the rod to get all the air out of the system. You will know when it becomes hard to pump.
The metal spacer it the metal tube sitting on top of each spring when you remove the caps. You will have to cut new ones for the new springs because the springs are not the same length. Instead of the crazy preload that Kawasaki gives the forks, you will only want about 5mm - 8mm of preload on the springs.
Once you get to that point... post again. I am tired of typing!
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
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thanks iNDA FOR THE PROMPT reply.
I have located the washer it is at the bottom of the spring. the FRP spring measured 475mm uncompress.
there is two top and bottom washer guide for the oem spacer do i need to use them back?
how do i go about determining the preload now that the oil is drain and oem spring taken out?
how do i determine the length of the PVC spacer neede?
thanks again.
I have located the washer it is at the bottom of the spring. the FRP spring measured 475mm uncompress.
there is two top and bottom washer guide for the oem spacer do i need to use them back?
how do i go about determining the preload now that the oil is drain and oem spring taken out?
how do i determine the length of the PVC spacer neede?
thanks again.
A true KDX customizer!!
- Indawoods
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- Joined: 09:59 am Jun 12 2003
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The best way to determine preload is to get everything put back together... springs and all... drop the spacer in and mark it right at the top of the tube and chop it off there. This should give you approximately 8mm preload. This should be sufficient.
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
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- barryadam
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Inda, in your vast experience, what fork oil wt has been recommended with the shim stack mod and stiffer (0.39) springs on the late model (1999, 2001) KDX220R stock forks?
Original was 5wt, it seems that several have gone to 7.5 wt or ??
175 lbs rider & gear.
P.S. no washers found on spring bottom. Maybe PO removed when swapping springs?
Original was 5wt, it seems that several have gone to 7.5 wt or ??
175 lbs rider & gear.
P.S. no washers found on spring bottom. Maybe PO removed when swapping springs?
"I hate heli-coils. They are like hospice for motorcycle parts."- BDI
- Indawoods
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I would go with the 7.5 if it feels just right to stiff.... You get this by mixing equal parts 5 and 10 wt fork oil. If it feels just right to softer then I would use 10wt. Never liked 5wt oil.... it just blows right through the valves....
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- barryadam
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- Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Thanks. I'll try 7.5wt.
Yeah, and used fork oil has to be the nastiest smelling $#!?. Phew!
In doing my forks for the first time, I did learn that the bellows keeps the dirt and mud IN, and should be loosened and cleaned at the lower tube connection on a regular basis. Things like that I find when I go back and ready your old postings.
I'm still struggling with your extended break-in procedures after a top end. That's a lot of work!
Yeah, and used fork oil has to be the nastiest smelling $#!?. Phew!
In doing my forks for the first time, I did learn that the bellows keeps the dirt and mud IN, and should be loosened and cleaned at the lower tube connection on a regular basis. Things like that I find when I go back and ready your old postings.
I'm still struggling with your extended break-in procedures after a top end. That's a lot of work!
"I hate heli-coils. They are like hospice for motorcycle parts."- BDI
- Indawoods
- Creator and Founder
- Posts: 9951
- Joined: 09:59 am Jun 12 2003
- Country:
- Location: Midwest
We ride them like we stole them these days..... Fire it up, warm it up and hit it!
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "