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Does someone have tips to true wheel, tools that i need, if it's easier to keep the wheel on the bike or, off the bike...the thing i have to know..

Search this site. Someone was recently talking about it and then linked a video that was posted on thumper talk. I think it was a you tube video but it ran thru the all whole process of building and truing a rim.

I have seen a few guys keep the front wheel on the bike and then attach a zip tie to a brake cable going towards the rim. They were then able to eyeball where exactly the rim was out of true.

I am not that good. If I ever was going to try, I would remove the wheel and place on a truing stand. You can make one pretty easy.

This link helped me too.

http://www.garagenight.tv/ep-9-new-spok ... old-wheel/

Thanks a lot! =) i will try this , this week end

cool idea as well...

http://www.garagenight.tv/diy-soda-blas ... rig-cheap/

do i need to start with the axial runout orthe radial runout??

Do the up and down first, then do the wobble.

Also, check out this link. I've used this method for building wheels. Follow the info for truing if that's all you are doing.

I recommend that you don't have the tire on when truing as well.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/wiki/build-a ... 90-minutes

skipro3 wrote:Do the up and down first, then do the wobble.

Also, check out this link. I've used this method for building wheels. Follow the info for truing if that's all you are doing.

I recommend that you don't have the tire on when truing as well.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/wiki/build-a ... 90-minutes

That is a great tutorial.
I second the tire off too, just makes everything work way easier.
Once you get your head around the idea, truing motorcycle wheels isn't all that big of a deal.
Once you get good at M-cycle wheels, you can move on the rear bicycle wheels. There you have to deal with "dish". Right side spokes are shorter than lefts, rim is offset from the center of the hub to allow for the 10 speed gear cluster, spoke tensions are different from one side to the other, spokes are hair thin, fragile, and stretch very easily, etc, etc..

I tuned mine "by hear", haven't tried it yet and I hope I didn't put too much tension on them. 1st ride will tell...

I did mine a few years ago

Some of the nipples needed persuading with some heat

Some I could not break free at all and had to replace the spokes/nipples

This is a good howto as well.
http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/a ... ?id=303757

skipro3 wrote:Do the up and down first, then do the wobble.

Also, check out this link. I've used this method for building wheels. Follow the info for truing if that's all you are doing.

I recommend that you don't have the tire on when truing as well.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/wiki/build-a ... 90-minutes

This a pretty good thread. One thing you may run into using this method, is the outer spokes being hard to lace. This is especially so if you are using oversize spokes. You can save yourself this headache by lacing the outers first. Doesn't matter which ones you thread in first, as long as you maintain the proper pattern. Sometimes it is not an issue, but placing outers first is always easier.

thanks but i just true the will, i dont have to re-lace the wheel
at the moment i past more than one hour just for the radial runout and it's not good enough for me so i will continue tomorrow or tonight