my "new" mostly stock '05 KDX220 - suggestions?

ack · Post by **ack** » 10:04 am Mar 23 2010

Hello all,

I'm new to dirtbikes, and I just picked up my first KDX220 and have been reading the plethora of info available on it. I ride mostly pinewoods and trails (mostly real tight and hilly stuff). My other woods bike is a '00 KTM 200MXC, which is costing me a small fortune to maintain.
Here's the rundown on my KDX:
- '05 KDX220 - very clean, low hours w/ NO major Mods (Suspension, Carb, Airbox, Piston are all stock).
- 13T/49T/X-ring Chain
Amazingly enough, the previous owner was about my build (6', 215 lbs), and the suspension feels and works great for me so far.
I rode it for the first time last weekend. One of my riding buds rides an '01 KDX220. He loved mine, and was saying that it had the smoothest power deliveries he's ever felt on a woods bike. He's a big guy (6'3 215) and the suspension felt good to him as well. When we swapped bikes, I noticed a real difference in the power delivery. Mostly, his '01 has a real quick hit, almost temperamental. I know he's running FMF Gnarly and PowerCore pipe, and he's put in aftermarket Reed Valve. Other than that, I don't think he's done any carb mods (maybe some jetting). Being an '01, I dont' know if my '05 would react the same as the '01 after similar mods. A big difference in the bike responses may also be the fact that my riding buddies are exceptional woods riders, and I'm still on a steep learning curve.

The only real change I'd like to make to mine is a bit more of a quicker hit. It's almost too smooth for my liking. I'm not a maniac in the woods, but I feel that my KDX can use a small boost. I also don't want to sacrifice the KDX's ability to grunt in low gears. It's nearly impossible to stall and after I get used to the clutch (the hydraulic clutch on the KTM is just butter), I'm going to really like this bike

I've been reading about a bunch of the mods available for the KDX, but if I had to pick the one or two that would apply the best return for me, I was thinking about doing the pipes first. I can get a FMF Gnarly "Woods" and TurbineCore Silencer for $340 US or so. I'd imagine that I should probably re-jet (to what, I don't know) after I put new pipes on it. (I also need a USFS Arrestor, if I change from stock pipes.

Anybody have any suggestions, or feel that I should be doing mods in a different order? Maybe the pipe mods that I'm thinking about is the best way to spend money to enhance the performance.

Sorry about the length of this post.

Steve

Post by **scheckaet** » 10:20 am Mar 23 2010

save your money on the silencer, you won't gain much by going after market unless you wanna save weight, + you don't have to repack the stock unit.
Re-jet and play with needles that's probably going to be the best difference.
I personaly prefer the smoothest delivery in the woods, tried a needle that had more "hit" and it was fun for open area but useless in the woods, would get me tired much faster and much slower because of more wheel spin.

Pipe made the biggest difference for me, totally different bike

You'll need to work on your suspension as you grow with the bike and get faster.
Your plan looks like a good plan for mods, get them one by one and grow with the bike. enjoy

canuckhybrid125 · Post by **canuckhybrid125** » 11:17 am Mar 23 2010

Most people with 220s go with a dessert pipe.

Post by **Indawoods** » 11:25 am Mar 23 2010

FIRST MOD = REPLACE PISTON

ihatefalling · Post by **ihatefalling** » 11:41 am Mar 23 2010

Aftermarket silencer won't do that much for you.

I'd go:

piston (piece of mind)
jetting
FMF pipe
RB carb/head mod
play with suspension as you go

Congrats on the new bike. Knock on wood my bike has been amazingly cheap to maintain considering how hard I ride it. The KTM crew will be silently wondering "how is it he keeps up with us on that thing?"

Post by **scheckaet** » 11:49 am Mar 23 2010

+ 1 on the piston

ASAP

Post by **fuzzy** » 12:06 pm Mar 23 2010

Keep in mind that tuning a 'hit' into the setup probably isn't doing anything than just that...adding harshness in delivery. IE make it hit and make it not they would probaly be within .10 in a 1/4mi drag race. This is a personal preference, but electric smooth is where it's at in the woods, and most bikes can't get there. Also, this can generally be altered by a simple needle swap. Read up on here. And YES, Inda is correct...Replace the top-end....THe OEM piston in a 220 is a known time-bomb. Very easy job to perform yourself.

ack · Post by **ack** » 12:39 pm Mar 23 2010

OK, much appreciated.
I guess a Wiseco piston replacement should be job #1.
I've never done any motor work before, but I should be alright.

Just so I know I'm looking at the right kit:
WISECO PRO-LITE PISTON - STOCK BORE - $139 (from Motosport.com)
Kit comes with Piston, 2 rings, wrist pin & 2 circlips.

I'd imagine that I'll also need a gasket kit as well.

Thanks for all the replies.

Steve

Post by **Indawoods** » 12:45 pm Mar 23 2010

Yep... and you will be fine.

There is an online manual above and to the right if you don't have one.

Post by **scheckaet** » 12:47 pm Mar 23 2010

gasket, bearing and I always get a couple extra circlips, you never know when and where those might jump too

Oh, and if you don't have one GET THE MANUAL, and support the kips shaft when removing the left treaded nut when you do your top end.

ack · Post by **ack** » 03:15 pm Mar 23 2010

Another newbie question.
I just spoke to the guy who sold me the bike (he was the 2nd owner) because he wanted to sell me an 'extra' Top End kit.
He thinks that the original owner already swapped out the OEM piston for a Wiseco.

Is there a way for me to tell without pulling the head? Are there Mfg. markings on top of the piston?
(There's no aftermarket stickers at all on the bike).

Steve

ihatefalling · Post by **ihatefalling** » 03:30 pm Mar 23 2010

Good questions.....I don't know how you could tell be looking through the exhaust port. Maybe someone does.

I guess if the nuts that hold the top end on look like they've been taken off before (scratched/rounded a little), maybe that's a hint.

TWMOODY · Post by **TWMOODY** » 09:18 pm Mar 24 2010

+1 on the piston
Desert pipe
cel needle for abrupt hit or del needle for smoother hit
VF3 reed valves
jet it properly, did I say jet it properly ?
Buy the FMF TC2 just because, no noticeable power gains but
the stock silencer looks like crap and the bike will sound much better.
How about taking everything apart and adding grease?
If it's never been apart your guaranteed NO GREASE ADDED
That stuff must be like gold from Kawi

ack · Post by **ack** » 08:20 am Mar 25 2010

fuzzy wrote:Keep in mind that tuning a 'hit' into the setup probably isn't doing anything than just that...adding harshness in delivery. IE make it hit and make it not they would probaly be within .10 in a 1/4mi drag race. This is a personal preference, but electric smooth is where it's at in the woods, and most bikes can't get there. Also, this can generally be altered by a simple needle swap. Read up on here. And YES, Inda is correct...Replace the top-end....THe OEM piston in a 220 is a known time-bomb. Very easy job to perform yourself.

Funny how you mention "Electric Smooth"...This KDX feels like it has a Rekluse in it - it's that smooth. Don't get me wrong, it's nearly perfect. Just lacking a very little bit. It's probably mostly due to my riding style and lack of clutch perfection on my part. I know the bike has power. In the open field, if I blip the throttle in 2nd or 3rd, I'm looking skyward.

Thanks for your reply...great advice.

ack · Post by **ack** » 08:33 am Mar 25 2010

Thanks everyone. There's a great deal of good usable information in your replies...much appreciated.

I'm picking up the Wiseco Top-End Kit on Saturday morning. I hope I can get it done before Sunday morning's ride. I'm actually excited about tearing into the top end. I usually shy away from any kind of motor work, but it looks pretty simple and the online service manual has some detail about it.

I've got 148, 150 & 152 Mains coming by Friday...just to have, but I'm still researching Needles (Thanks TWMOODY for the needle comparison. I'll probably get both and experiment a bit).

I do have one question, unrelated to anything I've asked so far:
The previous owner put a brand new X-Ring Chain on it (along with new SunStar 13/49 sprockets). I haven't read a single thread where someone mentions that they are running X-Ring...Is there a reason why O-Ring chains are primarily used, or is this just a matter of choice?

Thanks again,
Steve

Post by **Indawoods** » 09:12 am Mar 25 2010

It's all choice.... I am running a X-ring chain.

Post by **fuzzy** » 09:13 am Mar 25 2010

Great bang for the buck to give her a little more is to send your head off to RB designs for a shave...Now is a great time.

ack · Post by **ack** » 09:16 am Mar 25 2010

fuzzy wrote:Great bang for the buck to give her a little more is to send your head off to RB designs for a shave...Now is a great time.

As soon as I get my KTM back I'll do that. It's way too nice to be without a bike right now. I've heard great things about RB's mods

TWMOODY · Post by **TWMOODY** » 10:08 pm Mar 25 2010

ack
check on the bikes/parts for sale pages.
Soarski has a good looking pipe for sale for 110 bucks delivered......

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8627

ack · Post by **ack** » 07:34 am Mar 26 2010

TWMOODY wrote:ack
check on the bikes/parts for sale pages.
Soarski has a good looking pipe for sale for 110 bucks delivered......

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8627

Thanks, I just sent him an email.
There's no fitment issues between the 200 and 220 pipes, correct?

KDXRIDER.NET

KDXRIDER.NET

my "new" mostly stock '05 KDX220 - suggestions?

my "new" mostly stock '05 KDX220 - suggestions?