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Posted: 10:28 am Feb 28 2011
by Slick_Nick
It's a through bolt into a locking nut. Locking the threads will still allow it to spin. Threadlock on the flange like that will hold steady.

Posted: 06:58 pm Mar 01 2011
by turdsand
>|<>QBB<
Slick_Nick wrote:I think those were the 32-35mm ones. Came with the bike.
I just ordered the 1 1/2" (36-43mm). The manual specifies 43mm inner fork tube, so I'll let anyone who's interested know how they fit.

Posted: 02:06 pm Oct 24 2011
by MadMax
Nick, what fork spring did you use? What's your weight?

Posted: 02:18 pm Dec 05 2011
by MadMax
BTT.. Nick?

Posted: 04:04 pm Dec 05 2011
by Slick_Nick
Sorry, didnt see your original post. Racetech 0.46kg/mm. I'm 185 5'10" without gear.

Posted: 04:25 pm Dec 05 2011
by MadMax
Thanks. I have a set of the KLX forks and the springs are softer than the rear so I was trying to get some balance. I'm running the stock spring in the back and wasn't sure to trust Jeff Fredette's spring recommendations since he was talking about the KDX forks. So with all that said, does that rate give you good balance or do you wish you'd went stiffer?

Posted: 03:50 pm Dec 07 2011
by Slick_Nick
Got it detailed up yesterday for the winter "hibernation". Changed the oil and plug, let it run up to temp, cleaned air filter, pressure washed and shined, chain lubed, ready to be put under the cover for a few months.

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Posted: 04:27 pm Dec 07 2011
by MadMax
Looks awesome Nick.

I have a couple more questions and I'll leave you alone. (If I could PM you I would)

Are you running the stock rear spring? If yes, is the balance where you want it with the .46 forks? If no, what rate did you go with. I'm roughly same size as you and I don't mind learning from your experience.

Thanks again!
Stephen

Posted: 05:46 pm Dec 07 2011
by Slick_Nick
Stock rear spring works great for anyone under 220lbs. Set the sag properly (this makes a HUGE difference) and then adjust rebound and compression accordingly.

Posted: 07:59 pm Dec 07 2011
by MadMax
Thanks. I'm quite happy with the rear, I just want to make sure I buy the correct fork springs the first time. Sorry if I sound redundant with the questions, I'm just trying to make sure to do my due diligence.

Posted: 10:56 pm Mar 03 2012
by SS109
Nick, what size holes did you drill in your clutch basket? I'm thinking this might be a good idea for using with the Dyna-Ring.

Posted: 07:45 am Mar 05 2012
by Slick_Nick
Can't remember. They were at least 1/4" or so. Go as big as you feel comfortable without weakening the basket.

Project KDX 220R - The Rebuild

Posted: 10:06 am Dec 31 2012
by aebbern
Nick - you and I ride in the same general area (Calgary)... just curious what main and pilot jet you landed on after the RB work to your carb? Did you end up making any changes to the jetting after Ron rejetted it?

Cheers,
Andy

Project KDX 220R - The Rebuild

Posted: 10:34 am Jan 02 2013
by Slick_Nick
I did, but I think I only went down on the pilot. I believe I ended up with a 38 pilot and a 142 main. Bike is jetted PERFECTLY.

Project KDX 220R - The Rebuild

Posted: 11:57 am Jan 02 2013
by aebbern
Slick_Nick wrote:I believe I ended up with a 38 pilot and a 142 main. Bike is jetted PERFECTLY.
Thanks - mine is currently running a 40 pilot and 150 main. It seemed a little fat on my last ride, will try going one size leaner.

Re: Project KDX 220R - The Rebuild

Posted: 03:18 am Jan 31 2013
by Postigo
nice bike and great post... very helpful during my rebuild project, thanks :supz:

Project KDX 220R - The Rebuild

Posted: 07:14 am Feb 02 2013
by GKBO
Helped with my rebuild to.Was going to try to blast the frame with ground walnut shells,till I read this.Got some ground glass at Princess.Got a blasting hood to,on sale for $8 :boogie:

Project KDX 220R - The Rebuild

Posted: 09:22 am Jun 11 2015
by bushx
Old initial thread, but a good one. I'm in Calgary too, and picked up an '01 KDX220 for the summer. Where did you pick up the case splitting tool? Interested in renting it? :-)