KDXRIDER.NET

Been awhile since any updates, bike has about 54 hours on it and still running very strong, like it did after the rebuild. At 50 hours I disassembled all bearings and cleaned / repacked again. I have had ZERO problems with this thing so far, I love the KDX.

Threw on some new brake pads, wheel bearings, and tires (Pirelli Scorpion MX) and decided to do a fork swap. I decided on the KLX 300R forks for a few reasons.

- I wanted to keep my stock tripmeter (this is VERY important to me)
- I wanted a straight bolt on affair
- I wanted to keep my KDX wheel and caliper
- The KLX forks were a STEAL
- The KLX clamps get rid of the flimsy KDX rubber bar mount
- Front Ride height and balance of the bike are unchanged
- The KLX forks are still a "trail" fork, this is what I want on my trail bike

I know most will say "you should have gone with a KX swap, blah blah" but the KLX forks are perfect for me, and even after just an hour or so of riding I can tell they offer a MARKED improvement.

The forks were rebuilt, revalved, resprung, and cleaned top to bottom. (Even took the cartridge right out to clean it.) New seals were added as well. Fresh bearings were pressed onto the stem, and my KDX push button bleeders worked fine.

I don't have any pics of the swap itself, just the finished result. Excuse the pics, they were taken on my iPhone. I will be moving thetripmeter line to the outside of the fork leg, like the KLX has stock. Threw on a KX250F fender while I was at it to freshen it up a bit. This was an easy swap. The entire triple clamp assembly, tripmeter, front wheel, and axle are all compatible with the KDX. For me a steering stop modification was not nessicary, the forks do not hit the tank.

Updates later, right now I'm off to go ride with Brentn on his new YZ450!

Just got back from a 40Km ride with the new forks.

WOW!

The difference is night and day! The forks are MUCH more compliant, espesially at speed. The old forks would seem to bottom out on the smallest drops, and now I can hit 3-5ft dropoffs without any fear at all. The front wheel stays much more planted on everything, and my confidence in the bike has improved greatly with the new forks. The solid bar mounts, while they do transmit more vibration, don't allow the bars to become all cockeyed after even a small get-off. Feel seems to be improved. I'll keep updating as I get more experience on the forks, but as of now I am very impressed! Well worth the investment!

man,.. that bike looks awesome! Well done on the forks. I hope mine goes as smooth! I went with 2001 KX500 forks for my 2000 KDX 200. Haven't gotten them yet.

great thread.thanks for sharing,i found some pics of your rebuild helpful as my manual is poor.

I loved this thread, and obtained a lot of information from you by taking the time to share it. I sincerely thank you for that, and I tip my hat to you for doing a great job.

I will say that the lack of painting the frame seemed to be at odds with your overall desire to paint - and detail paint - about everything else. Of course that's your call, and the use of frame protectors might have made it unnecessary, but it seems like you uncharacteristically passed on the perfect opportunity to freshen up the frame. Not a criticism, just an observation.

Speaking of observations; the bike looks great. Kudos to you for all the hard work. She'll probably reward you for many years to come.

Well that was a good read......wish I had the time and money to do such a complete overall.
Great job Nick, well done.
Quick question for you. What type of lube/grease did you use on the steering, swingarm, linkage?
I have KX forks on the way and planning on doing new bearings for linkage and swingarm and was wondering what the "prefered" lube is for these points.
Looked at the BelRay site at their waterproof grease, but not available near by.
Thanks and again nice rebuild.......jealous

Ditton

I'm curious, too, to see what grease is preferred. I used whatever was in my grease gun (most likely a moly EP grease) for my steering stem bearings. However, that Bel Ray waterproof grease is available at Rocky Mountain ATV. If you are ordering something else you could justify getting a tube or two.

Nice job on the rebuild Nick. Looks great.

bell ray is good stuff, I'm not going back to the "bearing grease" from the local hardware store.

I forget what brand, but it's a waterproof "marine" grease, good for bearings, seals, etc.

I use Bel Ray Waterproof for everything.... It works well....

Thanks for making this thread Slick_Nick, I am actually printing it as a second reference manual. Anyway, this is my first post and I'm hoping somebody can help me figure out what the fork seal covers were on Nick's previous setup before swapping in the KLX fork? Here's the photo with the mystery part in question.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/_ ... directlink

seal saver from RMATV

scheckaet wrote:seal saver from RMATV

Wow, thanks for the quick reply! Any idea what size the fork tubes are on H model KDX, specifically a 2004 if that makes a difference? RMATV lists 32-35mm, 36-43mm, and 44-50mm...

I think those were the 32-35mm ones. Came with the bike.

where did you get your swingarm decals? I need to pick up a pair?

Ordered them right from Kawasaki. They ain't cheap!

Slick_Nick wrote:Ordered them right from Kawasaki. They ain't cheap!

Are the decals printed on clear vinyl or is the background that closely matched to the color of the swingarm?

Using your picture I'm going to check on getting a pair made by a local company who has done several decals for my boats...otherwise I may have bite the bullet and go to Kawasaki.

Also wanted to ask about your fork swap...did you have to use the KLX triple trees? I've read they are a direct replacement on the KDX...is this true?

Thanks.

Klx triple trees bolted right on, and you can keep your stock wheel, brake, tripmeter, etc.

The decals are printed on a silver background. Go back a few pages there's a closeup.

I had a 1994 or 5 KLX250 that had Race-Tech Gold valves installed. They were some of the best forks I have ever ridden on for tight woods riding.
Good Job on your bike! It looks great!

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Slick_Nick wrote:Did lots

Remember to Loctite the bolts, but not the threads, do the chamfered part so it won't spin in the hub.

Why not on the thread?