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Two things I noticed was that smoke comes out of that area when I rev. The second thing I noticed is that the shaft does not rotate exactly when i rev the motor. It reacts slower than what the throttle is doing.

Are these two things normal?

Those two things are normal.

Keep riding. New plug?

Those two things are normal.

Keep riding. New plug?

Sounds good. It's raining quite a bit so I can't get much riding in, but have plenty of time to work on the bike.

I did get a new plug (NGK BR8ES) and it seems to be running similarly, if not better. Last time I got to get a good ride in (had new plug in as well), I learned that I remembered the talk about riding 2 strokes "on the pipe." I've definitely noticed a difference there and I'm unleashing all this power I wasn't aware of. Though, I have noticed that if I'm twisting the throttle 100% it takes a few seconds to get in the power band. Is this normal?

I also get spooging from the cylinder/exhaust port and all the yucky stuff gets on my pipe. I haven't experienced anything blowing out of the silencer though.

Lastly, I checked with the previous owner and he said the bike still has the stock jets in it, though he did change the needle position but can't remember to what. The bike is a KDX220 w/ v force 3 reeds, FMF gnarly pipe, air lid cut.

Thought I should mention, the bike runs great and I'm having a ton of fun on it. But then again, I'm new to this and don't know how to spot if something's wrong. I just don't want to be ruining my bike without knowing it.

Thanks again for the help everyone.

JHNguyen89 wrote:

Those two things are normal.

Keep riding. New plug?

Sounds good. It's raining quite a bit so I can't get much riding in, but have plenty of time to work on the bike.

I did get a new plug (NGK BR8ES) and it seems to be running similarly, if not better. Last time I got to get a good ride in (had new plug in as well), I learned that I remembered the talk about riding 2 strokes "on the pipe." I've definitely noticed a difference there and I'm unleashing all this power I wasn't aware of. Though, I have noticed that if I'm twisting the throttle 100% it takes a few seconds to get in the power band. Is this normal?

I also get spooging from the cylinder/exhaust port and all the yucky stuff gets on my pipe. I haven't experienced anything blowing out of the silencer though.

Lastly, I checked with the previous owner and he said the bike still has the stock jets in it, though he did change the needle position but can't remember to what. The bike is a KDX220 w/ v force 3 reeds, FMF gnarly pipe, air lid cut.

For the spooge coming from your cylinder you need to seal it with some high heat silicone.If you still have stock jetting im sure you're running rich.Check with others for jetting help.You also might want to check what pipe you have for a 220 most use a dessert or rev pipe.

Looking inside the exhaust port, I can see the subport drums opening and mud flap lifting.

Also I'm following the instructions to inspect KIPS on this website: http://www.geocities.com/a57ngel/moto/kips.html

They mention "Then with your hand see that the actuator rod can freely move in and out (about 1 inch)." The rod is supposed to move in and out? Mine is not. BUT, it is CW/CCW where it moves the gear. Is this what the website is talking about, or is it supposed to turn CW/CCW as well as go in and out?

In other words is this shaft supposed to move left and right 1"?

just was wondering what is the best gearing for wheelies on a 220? and if all posible keep the stock chain

Keep stock gearing until you get your carb sorted out. It will wheelie all you want.

RE: In other words is this shaft supposed to move left and right 1"?


Nope. The guide you are attempting to follow is for an E series (89-94) KDX. It's a different setup. In the H, the actuating shaft rotates a gear. In the E, the actuating shaft pulls a rod out of the cylinder about 1". That's the 1" reference you're seeing. Ignore it.

Thanks Juliend!

IS there any other part of the KIPS I should inspect? Perhaps I should now check if jetting is the issue?

KIPS Inspection:
1. I've removed the slotted cover and can manually rotate the shaft and also checked that it rotates when I rev the motor.

2. I've taken the exhaust off and see that both sub port drums open and mud flap lift when I'm manually rotating the shaft.

From your pic it looks like you have the jug off? Might as well remove the kips and clean everything really well. It needs to be done every year or two at least, and you already have it torn down.

Unfortunately, that's not a photo of my bike.

Is it difficult/impossible to clean KIPS without removing engine from the frame?

You do not need to remove the engine from the frame. Remove the head and cylinder and work on it on a bench. I believe the frame gets in the way if you try to service it on the bike.

I know the frame is in the way on the E series. I've never personally removed the KIPS in an H series. Varmint would know better than me! I also pull the jug and head, and then work on it on the bench.