Installing FWW and Clutch Lever on kdx220

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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: 'I often wonder if...'

Hence, For Whom the Bells Troll


You did install a spacer under the cover?

Take the cover off..visibly check the wires coming from under the FW to ensure they are not damaged in any way.

While the cover is off, DO check for the presence of the key...look in the crank slot to SEE it...place a wire in the slot to FEEL it.

As long as I'm here...explain 'does not start' more completely. You actually kicked it a good bit? You have fuel..and you know that by tipping the bike on its side with the petcock 'on' to see fuel drain out the carb overflow hose? You don't have a rocker type 'kill' switch set to 'off'?


Unless you messed up a pretty good bit, there isn't anything to adding a FWW that will result in the bike not starting.

I DO suppose it started before? We're not going to end up with 14 pages of questions to arrive at, 'It didn't start before I put the FWW on, either. I thought that would fix it!'

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Post by canuckhybrid125 »

>|<>QBB<
Tedh98 wrote:When I read the posts here and on TT, I often wonder if Byte is just a 12 year old just messing around with everyone.
Clutch cable,thottle cable,fww,KTM300,KTM200,I think juliend and I should have pretty much figured that out also. :roll:
Last edited by canuckhybrid125 on 10:57 pm Dec 28 2009, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Byte »

>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:Re: 'I often wonder if...'

Hence, For Whom the Bells Troll


You did install a spacer under the cover?

Take the cover off..visibly check the wires coming from under the FW to ensure they are not damaged in any way.

While the cover is off, DO check for the presence of the key...look in the crank slot to SEE it...place a wire in the slot to FEEL it.

As long as I'm here...explain 'does not start' more completely. You actually kicked it a good bit? You have fuel..and you know that by tipping the bike on its side with the petcock 'on' to see fuel drain out the carb overflow hose? You don't have a rocker type 'kill' switch set to 'off'?


Unless you messed up a pretty good bit, there isn't anything to adding a FWW that will result in the bike not starting.

I DO suppose it started before? We're not going to end up with 14 pages of questions to arrive at, 'It didn't start before I put the FWW on, either. I thought that would fix it!'
Thanks Canyncrv.

I tried kicking a great many times.

Bike tipped on side with fuel dripping out.

Rocker switch is not in off position.

Ignition cover and spacer removed for check - nothing untowards..

Yes, it did start before.

Thoughts?

Byte
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Post by Byte »

Thansk boys.

Kicked it a few more times and RPPPPM. Now starts but very high RPM idle and unable to change idle at all.

I turn off for an hour and now it does not start - again.

Next steps?

Byte
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Post by canyncarvr »

A FWW will have an effect on the amount of rotation you get with a kick...although I doubt it's enough to make a big difference. I'm saying your starting sequence may need to change a bit.

May be you're fussing over a lot of nothing. You cannot effectively adjust the idle until it's good and warmed up..and that isn't going to happen after running for a minute.


As written...the bike started AFTER you 'reset' the fuel in the carb.


What you're describing sounds more like old gas...separated fuel (how long has it been sitting..and did you re-MIX the fuel in the tank?)..not anything related to the FWW.


Mix that fuel up..ride it.



What type of FWW did you use?

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Post by Julien D »

HAHAHA!!! I just love reading these posts on several different forums! Seems our buddy here also removed the carb and installed a new carb cap, throttle cable, and cable adjuster at the carb while installing the FWW.

Anybody else of the opinion that these carb related items would be more likely to cause a hard starting and high revving condition than the installation of a FWW?

Check your throttle cable and carb cap dude. And PLEASE try and give us all the info when you ask for help. It's usually good to do ONE thing at a time so IF (or WHEN in your case) you have a problem it's fairly obvious what caused it.
Last edited by Julien D on 04:51 pm Dec 29 2009, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Indawoods »

Pointless really.....

Please... one half-assed repair at a time.
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Post by canyncarvr »

>|<>QBB<
juliend wrote:HAHAHA!!! I just love reading these posts on several different forums! Seems our buddy here also removed the carb and installed a new carb cap, throttle cable, and cable adjuster at the carb while installing the FWW.
Please...tell me you're kidding.

This: 'Install of Accelerator Cable at Carb'

...was co-incident with the FWW 'problem;?

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Post by Byte »

Thansk guys.

Yes - I agree I should be consistent when communicating the same message across multi-forums. (Sorry - it was very late at night when posting...tired)

Yes - new OEM throttle cable and OEM cap was installed at same time as FWW.

YEs - I agree 1 half assed repair at a time..

Yes - Oldish fuel used - I will remix a new batch today.

FWW - Steahy 10oz.


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Post by canyncarvr »

Yes - new OEM throttle cable and OEM cap was installed at same time as FWW.
...and no mention of that when it comes to your bike not starting?

Maybe you think that's funny...seeing how much flailing and fussing you can get other folks to do in an attempt to help you out. If that is true, you are indeed a horse's ass.

But...I don't think it is (which is maybe even more hilarity for you).


...which is why I continue to bother with saying anything to you at all.

Still, you must do better. Indeed, one 1/2 fast 'fix' at a time. While it isn't necessary to include the air pressure in your tires...or the torque value applied to your front wheel spokes when relaying symptoms/problems with taking off a FW, it certainly is relevant to mention having the carb apart if 'hard starting' and 'hi idle' are part of your problems.


Chances of the throttle cable retainer being wrong are about perfect...and that being the case is why it is hard to start AND why it idles high. The tab on the white nylon retainer MUST fit in the slot of the needle retainer nut.

If you don't understand that...re-read it, study your service manual until you do.


Good luck.

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Post by Byte »

Thanks Canyn.

Your concerns are taken on board..

What is this tab you refer to?

What white nylon retainer?

Are we talking inside the carbi here?

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Post by Julien D »

Yeah, he's talking about the parts that hold the cable into the slide. there's a spring and a white plastic retainer. The plastic piece has a notch that fits into a groove in the slide. If it's not in there correctly the slide will not drop down in the carb like it should.
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Post by KarlP »

The plastic piece has a notch that fits into a groove in the slide. If it's not in there correctly the slide will not drop down in the carb like it should.
........Resulting in hard starting and a very high idle.

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Post by Byte »

thanks guys.

i always ensure that notch of this retainer is aligned into the groove of this tab. This time was no exception...

i will remove carb again and double check...

karl - the hybrid is planned for completion june 2010.

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Post by canyncarvr »

As I recall from some earlier questions...you had a kludged up mess of a cable..with no retainer, no clip on the carb cap tube.

So...you replaced all that stuff..and adjusted the freeplay in your throttle to...what?

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Post by Byte »

good question.

Yes, evrythng replaced there.

adjusting freeplay in throttle cable was not done.

Yes, i should have probably consulted the manual on this one.

Good pickup.

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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: 'adjusting freeplay in throttle cable was not done.'

So...check it. I want to know what it is AND how you determine what it is.

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Post by Byte »

ok.

There is one hitch and I know this will add another twist but I will tell you all upfront now...

After checking the carbi again late yesterday re retainer and re- confirming that it is aligned into groove of nut etc, I have decided to take whole bike to a bike mechanic to get this problem sorted.

Some (or all) of you will say this should have been done earlier but at least I have tried and I know my limits. there seems to be too many vairables on this particular issue (for me anyway)...

So, I am expecting the mechanic will check and adjust throttle (and whatever else) to ensure bike runs smoothly...

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Post by canyncarvr »

As tough as the learning curve may be...you don't learn a whole lot taking the bike to someone else.

Besides that...given MY experience with mechanics...after they 'fix' it, I have to 'REPAIR' what they 'fixed'.

Good luck!

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Post by Byte »

thanks Canyncrv.

I absolutley hear you.

I appreciate you trying to assist.

This is the first time i have ever taken a bike to the doctors.. (it shows hey.... :-0 )

I'll report back in a few days time....

Byte
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