KDXRIDER.NET

With all this talk of "ultimate KDX setup" the Scott's stabilizer has sparked my attention.

I'm interested in buying one but was wondering what kit I would need. I called Scott's but wasn't sure I explained myself well enough.

Here is what I got:
2003 KDX 200 with 2002 KX front end. KX clamp with 7/8 to 1 1/8 bar conversion risers and, obviously, fat bars. I love the bars and the height.

Before I called Scott's, I liked the sub mount option the best but they told me it wasn't available for my set up. I was told I would need the clamp for the KX, putting the stabilzer on top, and the frame mount for the KDX.
This led me to believe I would have to lose the fat bars. (Sounded like it was the only option for the KDX frame mount)

Are there any options for the fat bar set up for my rig?

Probably not helpful, but I have a 2004 KDX with '03 KX forks and the Scotts upper triple with fat bars and the Scotts damper mounted upside down. This wasn't a very cheap way to go, and one thing I don't like about it is the bars cover the adjusters in the fork caps.

Colorado Mike wrote:... and one thing I don't like about it is the bars cover the adjusters in the fork caps.

That does suck. I love the setup I have now.



Plenty of room to get to the clickers and bleeders.

I have a second call into Scotts. They are great. I sent them the above picture because they want attempt "to preserve the setup" I have now.

Some bad news, sounds like they have discontinued the bolt on for the KDX and the only option they have now is the weld-on.

I'm pretty sure I wont be able to preserve my bar height and still keep the fat bars. I think one of those options will have to go (if I still want the stabilizer that is)

Upside down?

You mean the lever..not the damper I'm qute sure.


I've asked them about a sub-mount..and was told the same thing. 'We don't make one.'

So what if they don't make one?

I'll get one eventually..and it will probably be a submount. Why? 'Cuz that's what I want.

Get a plate, mount the Scott's on it, use the 'upside down' arm (so it's offset 'up'), put together a linkage setup like the WER uses.

It's not that big a deal.

The money for the Scott's...THAT'S a big deal.

But...a couple of $35 needles, three bottles of rum, a handful of Joe Walsh/James Gang CDs, a $200 kicker...gee...I could'a had a Scott's!!!


For a clamp on..I'd bet that weld on your tube would have to be ground on anyway. Doesn't look to be enough room based on the bolt-ons I've seen from Scott.

It's always sumthin'..........

They make setups for the fat bars. The problem is the straight brace on the 7/8" bars..which is why they sell the renthals with the bowed bar.

They'll get it. They've been real good at that sort'a stuff based on a lot of riders that talked to 'em about their 'isssues'.

Make a lo-boy!! Sell me a plate for $10 and you'll recoup some engineering costs!!!

Sorry for the ignorance CC, but what is the "plate" you are talking about?

The Scott's bolts to the upper clamp.

Look at the sub-mount Scott's has for the CR. They make a bracket that bolts to the bottom clamp.

That's where the WER bolts..but it's not a fancy bracket, it's just a piece of 1/4" steel with holes in it to fit the WER and the bottom clamp fender holes.

Like this (WER bolted TO their plate):




Anyone with a Scott's reading this..could give me an idea of how the outline of the body of a Scott's 'fits' the mounting hole layout? And..the height of a Scott's is about...what?

Thanks.

canyncarvr wrote:Upside down?
For a clamp on..I'd bet that weld on your tube would have to be ground on anyway. Doesn't look to be enough room based on the bolt-ons I've seen from Scott.

It's always sumthin'..........

Wow! The bolt on goes down that deep over the head tube?

Found this:




I knew they (Scott's) would take the arm and turn it upside down if you asked (or you could buy their arm removal tool)..but I didn't know it could go backwards.

Maybe that's what CM meant my 'upside down'.


Re: 'Wow! The bolt on goes down that deep over the head tube?'

I know their instructions say (in some cases) that the weld on the tube needs to be filed down. I do NOT know about the bolt on for the KDX. The one install I had anything to do with (meaning I was there at the time), and what I'm remembering is what brought up the comment.

They (Scott's) sometimes call for the trimming of the bearing shield, too. Or...they supply one, I think.

IF you trimmed the shield (not something I would prefer to do..it serves a purpose being OVER the bearing), certainly that would add some space.

What the KDX bolt on amounts to I have no idea. Inda has one on his bike. I'm just sayin' that Scott's does, in some applications, call for that weld to be ground down.

Maybe you've not seen their lo mounts? This is the setup I'd prefer.



That from HERE!

They say they have lo mounts for ALL models. I didn't check on that.

I had seen that exact lo-mount picture.

Scott's called me back and said I would need the weld-on kit for their big bar set up. I would lose some of the height, though. He kinda questioned whether the tower would be tall enough to reach the stabilizer. He is emailing me the details. I'll post the response when I get it.

Scott's response:

You will need a weld on damper kit # DS-4558-00 using a 90 40 20 bar clamp. (ask for a extra tall tower pin)

Over sized bar conversion part number # BM-OS-6042-70

You will have to make sure that you mount you handle bar mounts in the rear ward position to match the position that you have on the bike right now or you will weld the tower on in the wrong place!!

CC, I'm thinking that "upside-down" pic you posted (CM's setup) is exactly what this would result in.





James MacLennan

Scotts Performance

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canyncarvr wrote:Maybe you've not seen their lo mounts? This is the setup I'd prefer.



That from HERE!

They say they have lo mounts for ALL models. I didn't check on that.

Should not be too hard to have somebody fab up something like that

by upside down, I meant the damper is turned around like in CC's first picture. Not turned over with the adjusters facing the ground, that would be stoopit. I bought the little tool to pull the arm off. I highly recommend you do not try to do it yourself without the tool.

Oh, and I didn;t have any trouble mounting the clamp-on mount other than orienting it properly. No grinding on my tube.

I like it mounted up where I can see it, so I can constantly be reminded of how much stinking money that little lump of Luminum cost.

Mike, was your bolt on for the kdx? Scott's said they discontinued that one.

I had 1999 KX250 forks on my 1996 KDX with fat bars and and a Scotts damper. Photos too but they burned up and the gallery here is now gone. Maybe CC can find a photo of this set up in his collection from back in the day when I rode that bike up there with him?

Anyway, I think all it took was machined top piece that holds the bars on. The welded on tab to the frame is very tricky because KDX does not offer much room. It's doable though. Oh, and don't use one of those clamp-on type tabs. Way too much flex to work at all let alone well. Same with the tall tower as Scott recommended. Anything that flexes is bypassing the damper in the device itself and a complete waste of time in my opinion.

Any reason you guys arent considering the WER ? Its almost half the price.

I had one but they wear out quick and require rebuilding. In comparison with the Scotts the WER is not as good at doing the damping job. I've since not put any damper on my bike since the last one I had with one and to tell the truth, my riding is so bad, I don't notice the difference! Ha!

VV, yeah, I got mine a few years back. like 4 maybe. seems to work great, but I never had a weld-on one to compare. I do know I haven't gotten deflected into a truck sized boulder and broken ribs since I put it on.