KDXRIDER.NET

Hey guy, I took a pretty hard spill over the summer on the kdx. I fell on the right side and broke all the dampers that hold the muffler on. I went to get some new ones thinking they would be about $4 a piece... No sir about $20 a piece!! And one ever broke theirs? What did u do?

search ebay.

Maybe there's a MC salvage yard near you. I found stuff for my old KDX 175 at one.

cheap cycle parts .com has them for 11 dollars a piece...

Re: 'And one ever broke theirs?'

Yes.

Re: ' What did u do?'

Bought new ones.

RonAyers has 'em for $14.00.

..plus shipping of course.


I've replaced 'em more than once. The pipe gets bent, the rubber gets tweaked, it breaks.

Bailing wire

Everyone with an off-road machine should have a set of these, and roll of good wire.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... 3244_13244

:)

I've always wanted some

But have never seen 'em in action

The road race guys get all into that saftey wire..
Its a requirement for track bikes

They spend hours at the drill press putting holes in their bolt heads so they can be saftey wired. If its done right you can offset the wire between bolts to keep tension on the bolts

I want the 'e' button version!!

That is something I have NEVER been able to do..twist wire with a pair of pliers..and NOT end up with one wire straight with the other simply wrapped around it.

That or the twist breaks with one (or less than one) twist to it.

I think I'm gonna save a few bucks and use the wire!

Wire twisters work well. They use lock wire on aircraft alot, I cant see why they would require it on high speed bikes. A good lock nut or lock washer will work just as well. Maybe they dont want to use lock washers on aluminum parts.

KDX220rser wrote:I think I'm gonna save a few bucks and use the wire!

I think he was kiddin' about that part.

The pipe needs to be supported..'held'.. Wire isn't going to do that. The 'from' spot and the 'to' part aren't right next to each other..you can't cinch the two tightly together and at the distance apart they are..wire won't accomplish much.

When I was in the Army (workin on helicopters) we were issued a set of safety wire pliers and then told we weren't supposed to use them. I've been working with safety wire for 20 years and almost never use them. Just grab each end of the wire and twist hand over hand. It works.

WERA road race bikes have to have all this wired to pass inspection:
•axles or axle nuts
•oil filler caps
•kickstarter retaining bolts
•axle caps and/or pinch bolts
•oil drain plugs
•removable exhaust baffles
•brake caliper bolts
•oil gallery plugs
•radiator caps
•brake torque arms
•oil lines
•coolant drains
•speedo and tach cables
•spin on oil filters/filter bolts
•any pressure fed lubricant line
•fork oil drain screws/bolts
•rear exhaust mounts

here is a pic of my friend's R6

muddertrucker wrote:...I cant see why they would require it on high speed bikes. A good lock nut or lock washer will work just as well. Maybe they dont want to use lock washers on aluminum parts.

I think its for inspection purposes...its quick to just go down a list and look and see something wired than checking to see if a lock nut or washer is secure, the crew would have to have it tight for the wire to go on?


Just my guess?


As far as bikes go:


I'm at my limit. KDX220 with piston and RB head, carb, pipe, and sprung and ajusted for my weight, its a reliable bike I'd take anywhere now. AS WELL its an extra bike and about 60 lbs lighter than my XR that I also ride in the woods.

after my wife gets a larger car for my growing family...I'm looking for a new bike to complement the KDX's lacking features not upgrading them...I've had many good times where I needed a buddy bike this year so I can get some buddies into riding as well!

Brian wrote:When I was in the Army (workin on helicopters) we were issued a set of safety wire pliers and then told we weren't supposed to use them. I've been working with safety wire for 20 years and almost never use them. Just grab each end of the wire and twist hand over hand. It works.

Same thing with the main gun on an M1 Abrams. We used the hand method to be sure it didn't break the wire and tie at least 3 bolts togather what a PIA to be carefully pulling it out and then snap time to startover in AIT.

canyncarvr wrote:

KDX220rser wrote:I think I'm gonna save a few bucks and use the wire!

I think he was kiddin' about that part.

I was. I just used alot of super glue and tap to attach the rubber block thingy back on the bracket. Seemed to work well. But it looks like my spill bent the he'll out of my fmf gnarl pipe. It's not a perfect fit. I bent it as much as I could. Looks like it will work

canyncarvr wrote:

KDX220rser wrote:I think I'm gonna save a few bucks and use the wire!

I think he was kiddin' about that part.

Nope I was sirius

I pick up an '01 KDX200 this summer and the front muffler mount was detached. So for a temporary fix I cleaned it then super glued it back together so I could ride it right away. After 10+ hours of hard trail riding it is still holding strong. My new one is just sitting in the spare parts bag waiting to be used.

On a related note, has anyone made their own out of a rubber stopper? They are about $1.00. Just glue it on and shape it.

Sthutch

1st Bike: '76 KT250
2nd Bike: '01 KDX200