Winter Storage.
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Winter Storage.
Hi all.
Just bought an 03 KDX220 earlier this year after a 30yr hiatus, something to go out with the young fella......what a blast, should never stopped.
However, up here in the Great White North the season is coming to an end and I was wondering what most people do to store their bikes?
My bike will be stored in a garage but it does get cold in there.
I have added as gas stabilizer and ran bike for 10min to circulate, put on stand with both wheels off ground. I have read/seen about fogging the cylinder, is this worth doing?? if so, any tricks or procedures.
Somewhat technical/mechanical so I should be able to do most things if not too involved. Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance
Ditton
Just bought an 03 KDX220 earlier this year after a 30yr hiatus, something to go out with the young fella......what a blast, should never stopped.
However, up here in the Great White North the season is coming to an end and I was wondering what most people do to store their bikes?
My bike will be stored in a garage but it does get cold in there.
I have added as gas stabilizer and ran bike for 10min to circulate, put on stand with both wheels off ground. I have read/seen about fogging the cylinder, is this worth doing?? if so, any tricks or procedures.
Somewhat technical/mechanical so I should be able to do most things if not too involved. Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance
Ditton
- Indawoods
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No real need to fog the cylinder.... should have a coat of oil on it from the premix.
Just make sure you coolant is up to snuff for your area.
I think you have it covered otherwise.
Just make sure you coolant is up to snuff for your area.
I think you have it covered otherwise.
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****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- canyncarvr
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I've heard folks use the term 'fog the cylinder' when what they DO is run a warm bike on choke for a bit before they hit the kill switch.
Keep in mind that after a season of sitting, whatever kind of oil you use in your gas, it has likely separated. Before you start it next time, slosh the fuel in the tank around real good. If the tank is full..you won't be able to do that..drain some out (or all of it) so you can slosh it around.
That process won't do much for what's in the bowl. Either loosen the drain plug to drain the bowl (doesn't have to come all the way out..it has holes drilled at the base of the threads to let fuel out), or more simply, lay the bike down to allow the carb vent hoses to drain the bowl.
Having the fuel ON when you do that isn't a bad idea..you can 'flush' the bowl that way.
Keep in mind that after a season of sitting, whatever kind of oil you use in your gas, it has likely separated. Before you start it next time, slosh the fuel in the tank around real good. If the tank is full..you won't be able to do that..drain some out (or all of it) so you can slosh it around.
That process won't do much for what's in the bowl. Either loosen the drain plug to drain the bowl (doesn't have to come all the way out..it has holes drilled at the base of the threads to let fuel out), or more simply, lay the bike down to allow the carb vent hoses to drain the bowl.
Having the fuel ON when you do that isn't a bad idea..you can 'flush' the bowl that way.
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Regarding "Fogging the cylinder". Believe that the above information in Very Good and adequate for most storage situations.
However - Fogging the cylinder to me means - buying a aerosol can of fogging oil and after the engine is warmed up. Pull the air filter - restart the engine and squirt a 1 second blast through the carburetor alternating with 2-3 seconds of trying to keep the engine running and repeat 2 or 3 times allowing the engine to die after the last blast from the fogging oil.
It is likely overkill for most dirt bikes. The idea is to coat the main bears, lower rod and wrist pin bearings along with the cylinder with a film of oil which is is high in the correct corrosion inhibitors and is resistent to sloughing off the critical parts over time.
P.S. If you do fog the cylinder using my methodology I will say you will likely need to pull your slide from the carb and clean it prior to running the bike. Just seems the way it goes on the dirt bikes. (Sleds for some reason do not need the slides cleaned likely because the slides are open a lot more and you really need to be revving the sleds to keep the engine running while performing the fogging. Also this is best done outside the garage area since you will generate lots of blue stinky smoke)
However - Fogging the cylinder to me means - buying a aerosol can of fogging oil and after the engine is warmed up. Pull the air filter - restart the engine and squirt a 1 second blast through the carburetor alternating with 2-3 seconds of trying to keep the engine running and repeat 2 or 3 times allowing the engine to die after the last blast from the fogging oil.
It is likely overkill for most dirt bikes. The idea is to coat the main bears, lower rod and wrist pin bearings along with the cylinder with a film of oil which is is high in the correct corrosion inhibitors and is resistent to sloughing off the critical parts over time.
P.S. If you do fog the cylinder using my methodology I will say you will likely need to pull your slide from the carb and clean it prior to running the bike. Just seems the way it goes on the dirt bikes. (Sleds for some reason do not need the slides cleaned likely because the slides are open a lot more and you really need to be revving the sleds to keep the engine running while performing the fogging. Also this is best done outside the garage area since you will generate lots of blue stinky smoke)
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Just a note on long term storage.
My little sister parked her Honda XLS125 under the outside shed at my parents house in Colorado, and turned off the petcock. The shed was open to the weather and not heated. The motorcycle sat for a long time.....really long. When I wanted to ride it, I pulled the gas hose off, drained out the old fuel - smelled like varnish. I reattached the fuel line and added new fuel. I had to air up the tires of course. The battery was dead but the bike started on the 2nd kick. Let it warm up a bit and road it around the property. The bikes has had a fresh oil change and the cables lubricated as they were very dry.
How long did the bike sit? From 1983 to 2005. While I would recommend a little more preparation than this, it just goes to show how well the bikes are made and how they can handle neglect if the conditions are right.
My little sister parked her Honda XLS125 under the outside shed at my parents house in Colorado, and turned off the petcock. The shed was open to the weather and not heated. The motorcycle sat for a long time.....really long. When I wanted to ride it, I pulled the gas hose off, drained out the old fuel - smelled like varnish. I reattached the fuel line and added new fuel. I had to air up the tires of course. The battery was dead but the bike started on the 2nd kick. Let it warm up a bit and road it around the property. The bikes has had a fresh oil change and the cables lubricated as they were very dry.
How long did the bike sit? From 1983 to 2005. While I would recommend a little more preparation than this, it just goes to show how well the bikes are made and how they can handle neglect if the conditions are right.
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My little Honda 50 had been sitting in my shed since '02
I brought it out a couple months ago when I moved
Still had same gas as when I parked it. It still smelled good
Started on second kick and ran fine
I brought it out a couple months ago when I moved
Still had same gas as when I parked it. It still smelled good
Started on second kick and ran fine
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Winter storage, what's that?
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Sounds like my old xr80. I've had that thing since about 1983. It has sat for several years at a time several times, and always starts right up. These days with that ethanol crap in the gas though... I don't like to let the bike sit more than 2 weeks without having the fuel drained out of the carb. Has anyone else seen how that crap crystallizes?Mr. Wibbens wrote:My little Honda 50 had been sitting in my shed since '02
I brought it out a couple months ago when I moved
Still had same gas as when I parked it. It still smelled good
Started on second kick and ran fine
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Bet the neighbors laugh when you ride that little 50 When my boys had their zr50s I would ride them around after washing them to dry them off - in the side yard sometimes like figure eights around my trees or I would wind them out through the neighbor. My neighbors all smiled - not that smile that says "isn't that cute" but the one that says "he must be touched...keep the kids away from him"...Mr. Wibbens wrote:My little Honda 50 had been sitting in my shed since '02
I brought it out a couple months ago when I moved
Still had same gas as when I parked it. It still smelled good
Started on second kick and ran fine
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Gotta agree here.Indawoods wrote:No real need to fog the cylinder.... should have a coat of oil on it from the premix.
Just make sure you coolant is up to snuff for your area.
I think you have it covered otherwise.
The gas will evaporate out of the premix in the motor, and leave a nice coating of oil. Any that washes down will be quickly replaced once the motor is restarted in spring. No need to do anything. I never do, but I will usually pull the bike out a few times in winter when we get some warm weather.
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Thanks for all the replies, much appreciated.
Nice comments regarding the oil in the premix leaving a coating on the cylinder. Sounds like I may only need to take the carb off in the spring to clean and then be good to go.
Winter???....thats that stuff that piles up 5' outside and city folk can't drive in.......Me thinks Quebec had the right idea making winter tires mandatory, this sure would help some of those people in Toronto who haven't got a clue how to drive. Although, there is nothing funnier thanseeing that young guy in his Hop'd up Honda trying to drive in a few inches of snow
Thanks again
Nice comments regarding the oil in the premix leaving a coating on the cylinder. Sounds like I may only need to take the carb off in the spring to clean and then be good to go.
Winter???....thats that stuff that piles up 5' outside and city folk can't drive in.......Me thinks Quebec had the right idea making winter tires mandatory, this sure would help some of those people in Toronto who haven't got a clue how to drive. Although, there is nothing funnier thanseeing that young guy in his Hop'd up Honda trying to drive in a few inches of snow
Thanks again
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- Colorado Mike
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Damn those look ugly to mount and I would not want to get run over with them. Looks like they would be a hoot to ridegregp wrote:I do this:
http://iillyyaa.smugmug.com/gallery/106 ... 4987_GEhbp
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I have used grade 8, 10-32 x 1" button head cap screws, from the inside - out, with regular nuts on the outside. That also works well and is relatively inexpensive compared to Trelly's or other rally spikes. The Tapcon's are a bit harder, though, and seem to last longer. I use Bridgestone Ultra Heavy Tubes and have never gotten a flat.
Either of these set ups should last all winter if you are easy on the throttle on any bare ground.
I use regular ice screws (1/2" long) in the front tire.
They really are not a bear to mount because I usually spike up whatever tire is already on my bike (used).
Yes, do not get any part of your body under them! I friend of mine had his entire right heel removed (ice screws) when the throttle stuck on his IT 250. He panicked, and stuffed his bike into a snow bank and got his foot caught under the rear wheel. In three seconds flat, that tire cut through his work boot and into his flesh like a 4" wide chain saw.
Bad things happen to good people.
Either of these set ups should last all winter if you are easy on the throttle on any bare ground.
I use regular ice screws (1/2" long) in the front tire.
They really are not a bear to mount because I usually spike up whatever tire is already on my bike (used).
Yes, do not get any part of your body under them! I friend of mine had his entire right heel removed (ice screws) when the throttle stuck on his IT 250. He panicked, and stuffed his bike into a snow bank and got his foot caught under the rear wheel. In three seconds flat, that tire cut through his work boot and into his flesh like a 4" wide chain saw.
Bad things happen to good people.
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If you are gonna be dumb you gotta be toughgregp wrote:In three seconds flat, that tire cut through his work boot and into his flesh like a 4" wide chain saw.
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I've got to agree with that. He left the IT outside overnight, through an ice storm. When he started the bike, the throttle was frozen *closed*. He fired the bike up and started working the throttle just enough to get enough power to begin heading down the street towards the lake. Once on the snow covered road, he forcefully twisted the throttle open. End of the story.
He is a good guy, though, and I would never want to see that happen again, to anybody.
He is a good guy, though, and I would never want to see that happen again, to anybody.
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1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
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1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
- Colorado Mike
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I've been mighty lucky several times doing something dumb and not having to pay that heavily for it. I try to limit the opportunity for the harsh paybacks more and more as I get older. I hope they could do something for your friend, but I imagine that would be a tough repair.
Mike
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At age 16 success is having a drivers license.
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