Rear axle wear

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jackpiner57
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Rear axle wear

Post by jackpiner57 »

I have put 3 seasons on the bike and checked the rear wheel bearings. They need to be replaced. The axle has some indentations in it, meaning it's not perfectly smooth. It does look straight but I don't have a v-block and runout gauge. Is this a problem or should I not worry about it? Has anyone else noticed this on their axle?
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Post by m0rie »

If you can't tell from looking at it that its obviously warped i'd run it as is and keep an eye on it.
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Post by KDXGarage »

I've noticed wear marks, but not any gouges. Get a piece of plate glass and roll the axle across it. It is a substitute for lack of v-blocks and a dial guage. That or make some v-blocks and use a pencil, nail, etc. to come up with your own MacGyver'ed setup.
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Post by canyncarvr »

I wouldn't worry about the axle...unless you seized a bearing on it.

And, no...I've been through probably 4-5 sets of bearings and my axle is fine.


Consider getting a set from CBR. Sure..you can get the Chinese crap bearings for $5 ea...and replace them in six months.

The CBR set (with dust seals) is somewhere around $50, but they come with a lifetime guarantee. And they stand behind it, too! Your bearings will last at LEAST 2x, and when you need another set, just call 'em. They will bill you for another set, but will credit you the $$ when you send the old ones in.

Well worth it to me.

You're replacing them yourself, right? Have any questions?

Basics: Snap ring on one side only. Remove old bearings using a punch or large flat-blade screwdriver thru the hub. Remove the new bearing seals using a mechanic's scribe to 'snick' them out on the INSIDE diameter. Clean them. Regrease them with some 'real' grease. Snap the seals back in.

Some ride without the inner seal, so water that gets in can get out. But...then where does it go? My choice is to run both seals.

Put them in the deep freeze overnight and they'll fit into the hub better. Start 'em straight!! into the hub. You can use a large socket to seat them.

Don't forget the spacer!!

Don't forget the snap ring!!

You will do yourself a favor if you clean the axle up well. A scotchbrite on the middle of it works good to remove the corrosion that is there. Makes it easer to place and remove the axle when it's clean.

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Post by jackpiner57 »

Thanks for the info guys. CC, I wish I knew about CBR before I ordered a Pivot Works bearing and seal kit. At $17.99 I'm guessing they're probably Japanese? They're goin in cause I wanna ride!

Thanks for the good info. I'll use it. Should I warm up the hub a little with a propane torch to remove them? Also before putting in the new frozen ones?

As far as the snicking goes I'll probably see what you mean when I get into the job. But now that I think of it, I think I'll swack 'em cause I got new ones with the kit! Seriously now, I'll snick 'em anyway cause I may need that skill someday.
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Post by KDXGarage »

I have a set of Moose Racing rear bearings. It turns out that they are made by All Balls, which = All Chinese. wsjkawasaki is on the Team PivotWorks support team after recently replacing front and rear wheel bearings, swingarm bearings and linkage bearings with PivotWorks brand bearings on his recently purchased 1997 KDX220. Maybe he will show up and let us know about PivotWorks origin.

I don't know if heating up the hub with a propane torch is a good idea or not, but since I own a rear wheel with a bearing outer race stuck in the hub recess, I sure as he*& wish I had done it before I removed the old one. It was 15 years old, so I guess that didn't help matters.

On the putting the bearings in the freezer, put them in a Zip-Loc bag before ever putting them in the freezer. That will keep moisture off them.
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Post by jackpiner57 »

I think the Pivot Works ones are a dollar more than the All Chinese Balls which may indicate Chinese origin. I hope they're from a Sumo wrestler at least. They're pretty tough.

Good idea on the Zip-Lock.
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I got stopped for speeding and the cop asks me "Don't you know the speed limit is 55 miles per hour?" So I said "yeah but I wasn't gonna be out that long."
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Post by canyncarvr »

Snick, swack, paddy-whack, give the dog a bone.
This old man goes rolling home.

See? You learned all you need to know to get 'em changed years back!

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Post by jackpiner57 »

This completely changes the way I'll do maintenance for years to come!
2002 KDX200
2005 KX85
2005 DL650K5 V-Strom
NETRA
AMA
Montshire Trail Riders
Vermont Motocross Association

I got stopped for speeding and the cop asks me "Don't you know the speed limit is 55 miles per hour?" So I said "yeah but I wasn't gonna be out that long."
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Post by IdahoCharley »

[quote="canyncarvr"]Snick, swack, paddy-whack, give the dog a bone.
This old man goes rolling home.

quote]


And I thought this was a "Family Forum". LOL
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Post by canyncarvr »

Using said scribe, find a place on the inside seal diameter between balls, gently insert the scribe between the seal and bearing, lever the scribe toward the center of the bearing to unseat the seal, slip the scribe around the inner diameter...and ....s-n-i-c-k! out it pops.

Try the same thing on the OUTside circumference and you will mangle the seal.

They just snap back in place (as long as you don't have too much grease packed in the bearing).

Glad to be of service! Get to snicking and swacking!! :wink:

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Post by wsjkawasaki »

jackpiner,
I believe the pivot works bearings are made in Iowa,at least that is where the main office is located they seem to be well made and the packaging is good,they do seem to be made well. i am not sure if they are made in china and imported or not i just know that they are way better than what i took out.
shane j.
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