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I'm going through rear brakes like no ones business. Two sets of Tusks (crap-100 miles each) and one set of EBC sintered (~300 miles).

How much rubbing, if any, should be occurring during free wheel spinning? When the bike is on the stand it is rubbing constantly as I spin the wheel.

The last time I changed them the pins looked ok; some surface anamolies but no grooves or pits.

Thanks for your help in advance.

Your brake pistons in the caliper might have some crud build-up and not letting the piston to return easily, smoothly. Also you could have some moister in your brake fluid that's pump'n up the brakes when they get hot.

Sounds like a good time to go through your brakes, front & rear.

Mine rub but not much

OEM pads last a helluva lot longer than aftermarket pads

I've always used OEM... get allot more out of them.

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Mr. Wibbens wrote:Mine rub but not much

OEM pads last a helluva lot longer than aftermarket pads

aahh, the old non-ring chain video. If I could get two full revolutions before it stopped I would be happy.

and mx, I did replace the brake fluid and put in some speed bleeders so I don't think that's the issue. I do agree that maybe I need to rip it apart, clean it out and replace the pins. I just wanted to make sure "some" rub was ok.

And where do you guys get the OEM pads? Before the last pad swap I tried getting OEM at my Kaw shop and when I got there he whipped out the EBC pads. He didn't get that I wanted OEM. He musta heard OhhEeeEmm ???

Most bike shops can order OEM stuff

bike bandit website you can get the part number for your bike's OEM pads I think. There is a link to that site on the LINKS page here.

I've been using the EBC MXS pads. They have held up really well.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_bra ... ries.shtml

Re: 'and replace the pins.'

Very likely the problem. Has been with my bike more'n once anyway.

If the pins have divots worn in them, it's time for 'em to go.

..unless you don't mind going through pads like crazy.


Thumbs up on the OEM pads. They come as an 'assembly'..complete with SS backing plate and fiber isolater. EBCs come with that?


Nope.

I had worn my disc well below the service limit. That disc sure went through pads fast. When I replaced the disc, pad use went way down.

Had I known what that disc went for I would have taken better care of it.

OEM do seem to wear best

I assumed some basic things...like the OP's rotor doesn't look like a soup bowl.

It it does...his pads will wear like they're made from the soup that would fit in such a bowl.

Soft soup, too!

and dont forget the master cylinder. there is tiny"bleed hole"in the bore that lets the fluid back in after you let off the pedal.it is only about .015-.020 in dia. and can easily get stopped up by a grain of sand.i found this out the hard way once after three rebuilds of the caliper.take the snap rings out and pull the piston out and look first with a flaslight to confirm blockage then use compressed air to blow out both small passages and check for daylight again.i had to strip a piece of copper wire and use a few strands to poke out some corrosion in mine.its a pain in the arse,but well worth the piece of mind.also dont take the cups off the piston,you will damage them,just gently clean them.J$.

Also make sure you do not overfill the master cylinder. If the level is too high the brake fluid can not return to the cylinder when it gets hot and expands and the brakes drag.

Basically if the brakes seem to drag more the longer you ride the bike - you may have overfilled the master cylinder.

jaydollar wrote:and dont forget the master cylinder. J$

What was your symptom?

Did the MC return spring 'pull' fluid out of the caliper?

IC wrote:..you may have overfilled the master cylinder.

Good stuff!!

We all be waitin' for the envelope, please!

..well...I am...

my symptoms were it felt like i was dragging an anchor and my buddy behind me stopped me to say the rear disc was smoking.it was the caliper actually.i cracked the brake line open to let off the pressure and road back to camp with only the front brake.J$